Travel Guide San Bartolo Coyotepec

12 kilometers from Oaxaca, this village is specialized in the production of ceramic pieces, with a black and shiny aspect, unique in the world. Half of the population is dedicated body and soul to this ancestral art, whose firing techniques originated in pre-Hispanic times. The work of the craftsmen is arduous, precise and delicate: the toil is long. The clay used to make their works is extracted from a quarry located a few kilometres from the village, then the craftsmen clean it and eliminate the impurities. Then comes the modelling stage, sometimes interrupted by drying time in the case of the most voluminous pieces. Then it is rubbed with quartz to compact it, burnish it and begin to give it that shiny complexion recognizable among all. Then begins the work of chiselling and incising the motifs, geometric to floral. Finally, it is the firing that will give it its black and shiny aspect: for this, we use a "two-mouth" kiln: once the pieces are well fired, we block the air inlets and outlets. This process generates a physical reaction contrary to oxidation and produces this black or greyish, shiny or matt colour (depending on the firing time). In addition to the workshops, there is also a large Museo Estatal de Arte Popular in Oaxaca, where some quite exceptional pieces are on display.