Almost 7 kilometres west of Zejtun, a little higher up, the village of Gudja is the home of the famous architect Gerolamo Cassar, who designed most of the fortification plans for Valletta and many other important buildings in the capital. Lost between houses and planes, the small 15th century church of St Mary of Gudja bears witness to a bygone past. Nearby, on the road to Ghaxaq, the Villa Bettina is named after a beautiful and intriguing woman of the past who, married to a French marquis, received within its walls Napoleon himself before making eyes at the English and inviting Admiral Nelson, among others.

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Statue de la Vierge Marie lors d'une <i>festa</i> à Gudja. Glen Slattery - Shutterstock.com
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