On leaving Kambos Bay, the road forks to the left and heads straight north to Lampi beach and its pretty, multicolored pebbles. Restrain your enthusiasm and don't take them with you as souvenirs: the locals are trying to preserve the integrity of the beach and it is now forbidden to take them with you. A few trees offer pleasant shade, as does the tavern, renowned for serving the best fish on the island (+30 22470 31490). To enjoy the sunset, head north-west to Livadi Kalogiron beach, where a summer taverna serves some of the best cuisine on Patmos, in a magnificent wooded setting next to a monastery.

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