A little further south, a dirt road brings you to the small fishing port of Porto Afonso. It's an astonishingly lunar port. The cliffs, of volcanic origin, are gradually eroded by the sea, offering the curious a gradation of colors. A place of astonishing geology, its high cliffs, charred by the fury of volcanoes, reveal shades of grey, red and ochre, rising above the ocean. Here and there, a few fishermen's huts have been carved out of the rock in the most fragile corners, no doubt to protect them from the wind and sea spray. This is one of Graciosa's most extraordinary places.

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