Travel Guide San Francisco El Alto

Nestled in the heights of Totonicapán, 5 kilometers north of San Cristóbal, this village is a must-see, especially on Fridays, market day. Not only is it the largest on the Altiplano, it's also free of tourists.As soon as you arrive in San Francisco El Alto, all you have to do is head for the church to find yourself immersed in a maze of stalls. Jugs, pots, plates: you start with everyday objects, all in ceramic. The deeper you go into the streets, the harder it is to make your way among the women in huipils, baskets on their heads. Mountains of spices and dried peppers stand next to stalls of shrimps, then bananas, themselves arranged next to shoes, and whole chickens. More anarchic and authentic than the Chichicastenango mercado, this giant anthill impresses with its wealth of colors and scents. A world away from the usual handcrafted souvenirs, shopkeepers sell hats and beautiful leather belts. Above all, the arcades are home to hundreds of magnificent fabrics, whose designs are well worth the detour.Once in the central square, you'll find yourself in a corridor of stalls protected from the sun by swathes of colorful fabric. It leads to a stone church, whose immaculate façade is only a reflection of the interior, with its imposing columns and arches.