Capital of the department of the same name, Quetzaltenango is Guatemala's second-largest city, yet still relatively untouristy. At the crossroads of routes from the Pacific coast, Mexico and the capital, it is an important economic center. The town, also known as Xela, lies some 200 km west of Guatemala City, at the foot of the volcanic chain that crosses the country. Nestled at an altitude of some 2,330 m, it enjoys a cold climate, with temperatures easily reaching 0°C. It is watched over by several impressive peaks, such as Santiaguito, one of the most active in the country. Volcanoes are the main attraction, led by Tajumulco, the highest peak in Central America. Its ascent alone is worth a stop in the city.A land of tradition, it is home to a large number of K'iche' and Mam Maya. Despite its size, Quetzaltenango has a certain charm, with the streets of the historic center sometimes reminiscent of Antigua, with small buildings ranging in color from ochre and apple green to yellow and pastel blue. Although Quetzaltenango offers little in the way of activities and does not really lend itself to sightseeing, it is a good base camp from which to explore the surrounding villages and discover the "real Guatemala " off the beaten track, that of the inhabitants of the Altiplano.A young and cultural city, Xela is a popular destination for travellers wishing to learn Spanish, and is particularly renowned for its numerous language schools. These generally follow the same pattern: classes every day of the week, with the possibility of group activities at weekends and accommodation with a family. As the likelihood of meeting French or English speakers is lower than in Antigua, progress in Spanish is rapid, while staying locally is less expensive.

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