Travel Guide Bodnath

Located 6 km east of central Kathmandu, Bodnath (also known as Bouddhanath) owes its name to the immense Buddhist stupa that stands there and its highly spiritual sanctuary for Buddhists, closely linked to the foundation of Lhasa in Tibet. It is one of the most famous in the world, and a major pilgrimage site in Nepal. It's one of the largest ever built, with its golden spire pointing skywards and its many multicoloured flags fluttering in the wind. And it's one of the oldest: the original stupa dates back to the 6th century, built by a king of the Licchavi kingdom and remodeled and enlarged in the 14th century. The atmosphere here is unique, with thousands of devotees coming to worship, praying and walking in the same direction around the stupa. Restored every year, whitewashed in spring, it has remained unchanged for centuries. To soak up the atmosphere of the place, it's best to come in the early morning or at dusk, when devotees make their processions around the stupa, rosary in one hand, the other turning the prayer wheel. Be sure to attend the Buddhist ceremonies held here, particularly the annual celebration of Buddha's birth in early May. You can also stay in this area, which is quieter than central Kathmandu, has a pleasant neighborhood life and is full of good addresses that are less touristy than Thamel.Given the close historical link between Bodnath and Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, this suburb of Kathmandu became a preferred refuge for Tibetans in mass exile from 1959, after the violent suppression of the uprising against Chinese oppression and occupation. Bodnath became, along with Swayambhunath, the main sanctuary of Tibetan Buddhism in the Kathmandu Valley. Since then, Tibetan Buddhist monasteries called gompas have sprung up around Bodnath. Today there are around 50, and some 10,000 Tibetans in exile. The stores in the area adjacent to the stupa are also steeped in Tibetan culture, both in handicrafts and religious art. Some of the monasteries are open to the public and provide accommodation for visitors, giving them an opportunity to chat with Tibetans.