An independent kingdom in the 12th century and outpost of Patan, Kirtipur - the City of Glory - is perched on twin hills, 5 km southwest of Kathmandu. It was the last Malla stronghold to fall to the king of Gorkha, Prithvi Narayan Shah, in 1766, after a six-month siege. Legend has it that the besieged soldiers insulted the invaders who, in revenge, had the lips and noses of all the men in the city cut off, with the exception of the wind instrument players.Kirtipur seems unchanging. Despite its proximity to Kathmandu, the town has long been neglected and therefore has not turned to tourism, which has left the Newar city in its best-preserved traditional and charming architecture. Most of its inhabitants are farmers or merchants, and the town's few craftsmen are engaged in sewing and weaving, which were once flourishing activities. The heart of the town is Naya Bazar, at the bottom of the hill. The main attraction is a contemporary Buddhist temple financed by Thais. Not far away, land has been requisitioned to build the country's largest university, Tribhuvan. A perfect example of Nepal's syncretism, the city is organized in two parts: the north is home to the Hindu population, while the southeast is predominantly Buddhist. It's a delight to stroll around in this old-fashioned atmosphere.

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