Travel Guide El Chota

Some 40 km north of Ibarra, the road descends into the Chota valley, offering a parade of arid, dusty mountains parched by the sun. At 1,550 m, you reach El Chota: dry heat, sparse cactus vegetation, sugarcane plantations, traditional adobe houses and black-skinned inhabitants. Here, the women don't bend over under the weight of their bundles, but carry their loads on their heads with dignity, the music giving rhythm to their swaying gait; everything gives the impression of being in Africa. The atmosphere here is relaxed, good-natured and languid. The heritage of the ancestors is expressed in traditional music with African roots: bomba, drums and maracas are the order of the day! Legends tell of the arrival and evolution of the black community in this narrow valley. A wealthy Colombian on his way to the more fertile lands of the South is said to have ended his journey here, murdered by his slaves who, having recognized in Chota a land similar to that described by their African ancestors, decided to settle there. The region is renowned for its dry climate, and people come from far and wide to treat arthritis and rheumatism. The road continues to Ambuquí, where you'll find hosterias and restaurants popular with locals at weekends.