The magnificent Rumtek monastery is the seat of the Gyalwa Karmapa, head of the Kagyupa order of Tibetan Buddhism (the black caps). The Dharma Chakra Center features the Golden stupa, where the ashes of the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa are carefully preserved in a stone-set box. The visit continues with the Karma Shri Naland Institute of Buddhist Studies in a sumptuous building. The puja takes place daily from 7 to 8 a.m. and from 4 to 5 p.m. Another, older monastery 2 km away is just as conducive to meditation. A discreet destination, Rumtek is one of those places it's hard to tear yourself away from.

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