Travel Guide Covadonga

For the Spaniards, Covadonga is the sanctuary of the Virgin of the same name, the equivalent of Lourdes in France. The importance of the place is historical: it was in the steep rocks of Covadonga that the leader of the northern Christians, Don Pelayo, won his first great victory over the Muslim invaders in 722. The Virgin Mary is said to have helped Don Pelayo in his conquest, triggering an avalanche in the valley that swept away the Muslims. Other victories would follow this one, marking the beginning of the Reconquest. Pelayo became king and Cangas de Onis the seat of his court. It was in this valley that the Kingdom of Asturias was born, the ancestor of the Kingdom of Castile. In summer, the small road that leads to the chapel installed in the hollow of the cave is saturated with caravans. Traditionally, people come here to make a wish while throwing a few pennies into a pool. Legend also has it that young girls who drink the water from the fountain, seven taps for seven gulps of water swallowed without breathing, get married within a year. The pilgrimage ends at the basilica, a large neo-Gothic building without interest. The real goal of the walk is well above the religious site, in the natural sanctuary of lakes Enol and Ercina, a dozen kilometres upstream. The asphalt road stops at the foot of Lake Enol, where a healthy walk along the emerald waters begins, over quiet meadows frequented by flocks of sheep. An information centre is located here.