Look beyond the modern, charmless port. On one of its hills lies the site of an ancient city, the most important on the island, whose scale is easy to imagine from the ruins that remain. But it is above all a place of passage. Although Argostoli is also a port, it is not the best served on the island. For links to the mainland, it's best to head for Sami. There you can reach the nearby island of Ithaca (2-3 times a day, 40 minutes). In summer, Sami offers at least one daily ferry service to Patras, at least one daily to Astakos and three to five weekly to Igoumenitsa.

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