Tourist Attractions & Monuments Northern Macedonia

This rocky mass of volcanic origin (Цоцев Камен, pronounced "tsotsev kamen") dominates the Kriva Valley at 481 m above sea level. Consisting of two hills facing each other, it has strange natural cavities and traces of human presence (red pigments, holes in the rock ...) from the Paleolithic to the Middle Ages. According to some authors, the site was an astronomical observatory, a place of sacrifice... or a shepherds' shelter. But no serious study has yet been conducted. The place remains nevertheless intriguing and superb at sunset.

This peak (Бугарска Чука/Bugarska Čuka) is the highest summit of Mount Galičica in the Elšani area. It reaches an altitude of 1,801 m at GPS point 41.004208, 20.846783. Offering views of both Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa, it owes its name to the Bulgarian positions that faced those of the French here during the First World War. Unexploded ordnance remains on site. The peak can be reached by a 7 km trail from Elšani. Detailed itineraries on wikiloc.com or on the Galičica National Park website.

This fortress (Китино Кале/Kitino Kale) stands on an isolated hill some twenty meters above Kičevo. It was erected by Serbian prince Marko Mrnjavčević in the ^14th century and occupied by the Ottomans until 1860. Only the remains of a tower and a rampart remain. Since 1963, the fortress has housed a major memorial complex designed by Jordan Grabulovski, who also built the Makedonium in Kruševo. At the top, a semicircular ossuary contains the bodies of partisans who liberated the town twice, in 1943 and 1945.

Set on the shores of Lake Ohrid since 2008, this museum (Музеј на Вода Залив на Коските/Muzej na Voda Zaliv na Koskite) consists of a reconstruction of a prehistoric lakeside village. Hastily built, the cob houses are crumbling year by year, but the place remains pleasant for a break at the site café or for a picnic on the nearby hill. Archaeologists were inspired by the underwater excavation site at Ploča Mičov Grad (a little further north on the coast), which is home to Bronze Age and Iron Age finds. Over an area of 8,500^m2, no fewer than 6,000 piling sites have been uncovered since 1997, suggesting the existence of a lakeside village of around twenty houses occupied between 1200 and 700 BC. The large quantity of bones carved for various purposes discovered on site has given the site its name. Some of these, along with flints, stone and bronze tools and pottery unearthed underwater, are on display at the Ohrid National Museum. The reconstructed village consists of a platform 1.5 m above the water on which rest eight houses, two of which are circular in shape. The interiors of the houses have been reconstructed using animal skins and reproductions of the various objects discovered at Ploča Mičov Grad. On the hill above the lakeside village, an ancient Roman camp has also been reconstructed. The Ohrid National Museum, which manages the entire site, also offers underwater archaeological tours with the Amfora diving club.

The natural region of Lake Ohrid has recently been protected by three different international conventions, two of which extend across the border with Albania. Since 1979, only the part located in Northern Macedonia, and in particular the old town of Ohrid, had been listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site. But in 2019, this site was extended to include the entire area around the lake, forming the "Ohrid region": an area of 947 ^km2 that is now classified as a Unesco "natural and cultural heritage" site. This includes not only the lake itself (349 ^km2), but also the Albanian shores, notably the town of Pogradec (population approx. 60,000), south of the lake and 8 km west of the St. Naum monastery, and the peninsula of the village of Lin (population approx. 500, Albanian and Macedonian), west of the lake and 22 km south of Struga. Lake Ohrid is also part of the "Ohrid-Prespa Transboundary Biosphere Reserve", which extends over 4,462 ^km2 around Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa. This was created in 2014 by North Macedonia and Albania under the aegis of Unesco. It is managed by the German-based organization PONT (Prespa Ohrid Nature Trust) (pont.org). Finally, since 2021, the 250 ^km2 North Macedonian part of the lake has been listed under the Ramsar Convention for the preservation of wetlands of international importance with a high concentration of birds and fish.

This lake (Преспанско Езеро/Prespansko Ezero, Liqeni i Prespës, Μεγάλη Πρέσπα/Megali Prespa) is the second largest in North Macedonia, after Ohrid. It is one of Europe's most important ornithological areas: around 42% of the continent's bird species live, stay or nest here. With a theoretical surface area of 259 km², the lake is shared between three countries. Northern Macedonia owns the largest part, 176.3 km². The remainder is divided between Albania (46.3 km²) to the southwest and Greece (36.4 km²) to the south.

Large and small Prespa. There are actually two Prespa lakes. An isthmus 4 km long and 500 m wide separates Lake Prespa - or Great Prespa Lake - from Little Prespa Lake (Мало Преспанско Езеро/Malo Prespansko Ezero, Prespa e Vogël, Μικρή Πρέσπα/Mikri Prespa). Located in the south, it covers 46.8 km². It lies mainly in Greece, with a small part in Albania (4.3 km²). Formed 1 million years ago, the two lakes cover a total area of around 306 km². They are shallow: 14 m on average and 48 m maximum for the large lake, 7.7 m on average for the small lake. They are linked by a natural channel across the isthmus, which lies in Greek territory. They lie 853 m above sea level, between Mount Galičica (2,254 m) to the west, Mount Baba (2,601 m) to the east and Mali i Thatë ("dry mountain", 2,287 m) in Albania to the south, making them the highest non-glacial lakes in the Balkans. Thanks to their elevated position and porous karst configuration, the Prespa lakes supply water to Lake Ohrid via natural underground passages 7 to 12 km long, which run beneath Mount Galičica.

Islands and biodiversity. The lakes include three small islands. On the large Lake Prespa are the islets of Golem Grad (18 ha), in Northern Macedonia, and Maligrad (5 ha), in Albania, both uninhabited. The island of Agios Achillios (80 ha) on Greece's tiny Lake Prespa is inhabited by just twenty or so people. Tourism is underdeveloped, and there are no towns on the shores, only hamlets and villages. But the area is rich in biodiversity, with marshes and reeds, numerous endemic species of fish, crustaceans and aquatic plants.

Waders and pelicans. The Prespa Lakes are one of Europe's most important stopovers for migratory birds from Africa and the Middle East. Large wading birds such as the little egret(Egretta garzetta), great egret(Ardea alba), sickle ibis (Plegadis falcinellus) and black-crowned night heron(Nycticorax nycticorax), and fishing birds such as pygmy cormorant(Microcarbo pygmeus), white pelican(Pelecanus onocrotalus) and curled pelican(Pelecanus crispus). The latter, very rare on the planet, is the largest of the pelicans. The Prespa Lakes are its only breeding ground on the Old Continent. In fact, Europe's largest colony of this bird, with an average wingspan of 3 meters, can be found here.

Ramsar and Unesco. The three national areas of the two lakes are listed under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands: Greece (51 km²) since 1975, Northern Macedonia (189 km²) since 1995 and Albania (151 km²) since 2013. There is also the small Ezerani Nature Park (20 km²), north of the large lake, in Northern Macedonia. The whole area is bordered by four national parks: Galičica (227 km²) and Pelister (171 km²), in Northern Macedonia, Prespa National Park (277 km²), in Albania, and Prespa National Park (51 km²), in Greece. There are also two international protected areas. In 2000, the "Prespa Park" was created between Northern Macedonia, Albania and Greece. It is managed by the Society for the Protection of Prespa (spp.gr), co-founded in 1990 by Swiss biologist Luc Hoffmann (1923-2016) and based in the Greek village of Agios Germanos, on the shores of the small Prespa lake. And, since 2014, the areas of the two Prespa lakes located in Northern Macedonia and Albania have been part of the "Ohrid-Prespa Transboundary Biosphere Reserve" created by Unesco. The reserve extends over 4,462 km² between the two countries. It is managed by the German-based Prespa Ohrid Nature Trust (pont.org).

Threats and disasters. Despite all the protection measures implemented by the three countries, the Prespa Lakes ecosystem remains fragile. The surface area of both lakes is shrinking year by year as a result of global warming. Several endemic species are threatened with extinction, notably the Prespa trout(Salmo peristericus). In 2022, a sudden outbreak of avian flu caused the death of more than 1,700 curly pelicans - around 60% of the colony on the two lakes. This was a catastrophe for a species that had previously numbered fewer than 18,000 individuals worldwide.

A symbol of rapprochement. To end on a more positive note, the Prespa lakes recently served as the setting for a rapprochement between Athens and Skopje. It was in the Greek village of Psarades, on the southern shore of the great lake, that representatives of the two countries signed the historic Prespa Agreement on June 12, 2018. This enabled FYROM (Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia) to finally gain international recognition under the name of "North Macedonia".

This small peak is now locally called Голема Круна/Golema Kruna. This is the simple translation of "Grand Couronne". Because here, between Greece and North Macedonia, the hills of Karabalija overlooking Lake Dorjan, in the west, have names that are neither Greek nor Slavic: the Turtle, the Small Crowned, Pip Ridge, the Twins ... These are the nicknames given during the First World War by French and British soldiers to the positions held by the Bulgarians. So many places that the allied troops tried to conquer during three years. Three years of offensives, bombings and hand-to-hand combat. Between 1915 and 1918, Dorjan was the "Verdun of the Macedonian front". And its fort of Douaumont was the Grand Couronne, the main observation post of the Bulgarian artillery. Officially called Kale Tepe ("the hill of the castle" in Turkish), and also known as the Devil's Eye in English, the Grand Couronne is only 612 m high. But it is hard to reach, especially in the heat.

Bunkers and rusty casings. From Star Dojran, a path accessible by 4 x 4 and today used by the border guards allows to reach the half-slope. Then you have to walk through the rocky terrain, make your way through the brush to reach Dovdželii. During the conflict, this village located in the no man's land between the two sides was continuously bombed. Only ruins remain. Further on is the deadly Twin Ravine, then the Bulgarian first and second lines, whose trenches are still visible. Only a few isolated Allied units managed to reach the top of the ravine, sometimes with losses of more than 70 percent of their strength. The slopes up to the summit proved even more difficult to climb. The hill is littered with bunkers and dugouts, some of which are well preserved, while the ground is littered with shell casings and projectiles gnawed by rust. The place is surmounted by a blockhouse that offers a breathtaking view of the lake around which the troops climbing the hills were concentrated. The Bulgarians had no trouble anticipating the Allied attacks... until September 19, 1918. On that day, the Welsh of the South Wales Borderers finally managed to seize the Grand Couronne. Only 18 soldiers and one officer were left when the battalion took the position. Despite a fierce defense, the Bulgarians were overwhelmed. Ten days later, Skopje was conquered by surprise by the French and Bulgaria capitulated.

Created in 2021, this protected area (Заштитен Предел Малешево/Zaštiten Predel Maleševo) covers 115 ^km2 along the Bulgarian border, between the municipalities of Berovo, Pehčevo and Delčevo. Managed by the national forestry office and the private company Pharmachem, it is home to oak and beech forests. However, in the face of opposition from local forestry companies, tourist facilities have been slow to develop. However, the Spikovski waterfalls are within easy reach.

This museum houses temporary exhibitions of contemporary art and the archaeological discoveries of the region. The emblematic illyrienne statuette of the Menada goddess is however at the national museum in Skopje.

Located at 570 m above sea level, this tourist area (Средно Водно) is home to the departure station of the cable car that reaches the top of Mount Vodno and the tourist area of Krstovar. There is also a pleasant park here, picnic areas, cafes-restaurants, souvenir sellers and the Vodno Hotel, which has been closed since 2019. The views are already beautiful, but that's nothing compared to what awaits you at the top. Please note: there is a parking fee on weekends via an app.

Perched at 1 300 m above sea level, 7 km southwest of Vevčani, Gorna Belica (Bella di Supra en aroumain) is a former alpine village of vlachs shepherds. Today uninhabited, it has become a resort for the inhabitants of Struga, who come here looking for freshness in summer. Gorna Belica has the church Saint-Clement of Ohrid (Свети Климент Охридски), the first church arriving in the village. It dates back to the ninth s. and would have been the residence of the saint before it finally settled on the shores of the lake. Higher, the church Sainte-Petka (Света Петка or Paraškjevija in aroumain) dates back to the beginning of the s. It is typical of the vlachs architecture with its iconostasis decorated with floral motifs and its carved wooden eagle. 

Built between 1976 and 1979, this beautiful white monument (Спомен Костурница/Spomen Kosturnica) houses the remains of 87 Veles partisans who died during World War II, including that of the poet Kočo Racin, who was killed under murky circumstances in 1943. Designed by Serbian sculptor Ljubomir Denković (b. 1936), the dome of the ossuary (10 m high and 15 m wide) evokes a German soldier's helmet from the ^Third Reich broken into four. Inside is the largest mosaic in the country (220^m2), the work of Macedonian painter Petar Mazev (1927-1993).

Here the small Baba River makes a series of jumps to form a wide waterfall 19 m high (Колешински Водопад/Kolešinski Vodopad). Fitted out with picnic tables, the site is located under Mount Beles, 610 m above sea level, near Kolešino. Often frozen in winter, the waterfall is impressive in spring, when the Baba River flows in a torrent. For your information, the village of Kolešino (600 inhabitants) is presented as a model of inter-religious tolerance with Orthodox, four communities of Protestants and another of Jehovah's Witnesses.

This 43 ^km2 lake (Дојранско Езеро/Dojransko Ezero, Λίμνη Δοϊράνη/Limani Doïrani) is shared between Northern Macedonia (27 ^km2) and Greece. Oval in shape, it extends 8.9 km in length from north to south and 7.1 km in maximum width. Much smaller than the Ohrid and Prespa lakes, it is nonetheless the third-largest natural lake in Northern Macedonia. Almost dried out by human error in 1988, Lake Dojran has now been restored to its original level, with an average depth of 10m. It is protected due to the presence of numerous birds, including the occasional rare curly pelican. To the east and south, the banks on the Greek side are mostly marshland. On the Macedonian side, to the west and north, you'll find the village of Dojran and several stretches of sand on the west coast, as well as Mrdaja beach to the south and Nikolić beach to the north. Swimming, however, is complicated by the proliferation of invasive plants. As for fishing, it is now done with nets or lines and not, as in the past, with the forced complicity of aquatic birds. This technique, known as piliktanik, has made the lake famous. For centuries, great crested grebes and pygmy cormorants were used as "flappers" to direct fish into reed traps and prevent them from escaping. Despite this, the large white flat-bottomed boats and stilt huts are still an integral part of the landscape, with the beautiful Bélès massif dominating to the north.

Founded in the early ^14th century, this Orthodox monastery is dedicated to the dormition of the Mother of God (Манастир Рождество на Пресветата Богородица/Manastir Roždestvo na Presvetata Bogorodica). It features a seven-hundred-year-old plane tree, the summer residence of the Archbishop of the Macedonian Orthodox Church, a modern church and the rock church around which the complex was built. The latter is housed in a cave that has been occupied by hermits since the ^11th century. It comprises three spaces on two levels, accessible via staircases and narrow passages cut into the rock. The walls are almost entirely decorated with frescoes created between the early ^14th and ^16th centuries. Among them, the oldest scene is the Vision of Saint Peter of Alexandria: a 12-year-old child in torn clothes appears to the Patriarch of Alexandria; he claims to have been attacked by the priest Arius (condemned for heresy at the Council of Nicaea in 325) and announces to Peter that he will die a martyr's death. Also of note are the portraits of the archangels Gabriel and Michael guarding the entrance to the church and a representation, unique in the Balkans, of the two holy healers of Nicomedia (today Izmir, Turkey) Saint Hermolaos and Saint Panteleimon, the former teaching Christianity to the latter. The grotto also boasts two reputedly miraculous springs dedicated to the apostle Peter and Saint Ananias of Damascus (the apostle Paul's healer).

Set on a peak 1,005 m above sea level, this Orthodox monastery (Матеички Манастир/Mateički Manastir, Manastiri i Mateçit) is one of the most precious in the country. Alas, it was severely vandalized during the Albanian uprising of 2001. Founded in 1057 by the Byzantine emperor Isaac ^I, the complex was restored by the Serbian kings Stefan Dušan and Stefan Uroš V between 1300 and 1357. Dedicated to the Dormition of the Mother of God (Успение на Пресвета Богородица/Uspenie na Presveta Bogorodica), it was a major monastic center in the ^15th century, before gradually falling into disrepair, until its revival in the 1920s. In the meantime, the lead from the roof was removed in the ^18th century to cover the Sinan Tatar Bey mosque in Kumanovo. But the most significant damage was caused by members of the KLA-M in 2001. Since then, little work has been undertaken. The annex buildings remain in ruins. As for the elegant catholicon (main church), if it seems in a correct state from the outside, it has lost most of its frescoes. Only a cycle of the Dormition of the Mother of God and the portrait of King Dušan with his wife Helena and their son Uroš V are well preserved. The church also preserves a Greek inscription about the foundation in the ^11th century. Located between the Skopska Crna Gora massif (Skopje region) and the Žegligovo valley (Kumanovo region), the monastery is in the municipality of Matejče (Mateç/Mateçi in Albanian), which has a population of about 2,900, almost all of whom are Albanian since the 2001 conflict.

This spectacular rocky passage carved by the Vardar (Демиркаписка Клисура/Demirkapiska Klisura) begins just south of Demir Kapija and extends 31 km in length to the village of Udovo/Удово towards Gevgelija. Demir Kapija owes its name to it, since the Ottomans called the site the "Iron Gate": Demir Kapı in Turkish. The site allowed for easy control of communications between Skopje and Thessaloniki. During the First World War, Austro-Hungarian troops dug a first rudimentary tunnel on the left bank, south of Demir Kapija. Above it, the cliff preserves a large inscription engraved in honor of the German Emperor Wilhelm II. A century later, from 2012 to 2018, it is a Franco-Greek consortium that dug the very complex tunnel of 1 km in length allowing the European Highway 75 to pass under this mass of limestone rock with gray-blue hues. The same sector is also among the most popular climbing sites in the Balkans: a wall almost at the peak (85 degrees of inclination) of 300 m high with several routes reserved for the best climbers. For the less experienced climbers, there are also three via ferrate, routes with iron frames installed between 2017 and 2020. But it still requires to come with its safety equipment (ropes, harness, helmet ...). The cliff opposite, on the right bank of the Vardar, has at its summit the remains of the medieval fortress of Prosek.

This Catholic church (Црква Пресвето Срце Исусово/Crkva Presveto Srce Isusovo) was founded by French Lazarists in 1870. For twenty-six years, the parish was led by the priest Jean-Claude Faveyrial (1817-1893). He was a French teacher at the Romanian school in Bitola and author of L'Histoire de l'Albanie, a reference work in the neighboring country. Burnt down in 1900 and rebuilt in neo-Gothic style in 1909, the church was given its bell tower in 1940.

Founded in 1983, this national institute and museum (НУ Завод и Музеј Битола/NU Zavod i Muzej Bitola) is very disappointing. While the collections are rather rich, the exhibition spaces seem neglected, mired in outdated museography. Only one room benefits from a careful presentation: the one devoted to Mustafa Kemal, known as Atatürk. Indeed, the founder of modern Turkey studied here from 1896 to 1899, in what was once an Ottoman military academy founded in 1848. But this Turkish-funded space is all about propaganda, and lacks any original objects. There are also virtually no icons. Yet the institution houses the country's only laboratory working on the renovation of sacred images. And what about the masterpiece, the "Inscription of Bitola" (^11th century)? It's not even on display. It's easy to see why: this stone confirms that Emperor Samuel, who died in 1014, was indeed Bulgarian and not "Macedonian", as the country's official history would have us believe.

Navicelle earrings. Now for the good stuff. Among the oldest objects is the fossil of a mastodon tooth unearthed in the large Suvodol coal mine, 21 km east of Bitola. It belonged to an ancestor of the mammoth that lived here fifteen million years ago. As far as the Neolithic is concerned, we're surprised by this small house found at Porodin, 12 km to the south-east. Made of clay between 5800 and 5200 BC, it stands out for its human details, such as the head-shaped chimney. It served as a temple for the worship of an unknown divinity. In the Antiquity section, note this superb gold earring with navicelle (shaped like a small ship) from the ^4th century B.C. It was discovered in the tomb of a Hellenized princess near Beranci, 16 km to the north. Also of note is the marble mask of Heracles, dating from the ^2nd century A.D. It was used to decorate the theater at the Herakleia Lynkestis site. Contemporary history focuses on traditional costumes, revolutionary movements and World War II partisans. The First World War is quickly dispatched, and not without error: a German helmet presented as French. It is also regrettable that the rich and tragic history of Bitola's Jewish community is presented so succinctly. In the contemporary art section, a few paintings stand out, such as portraits by Peco Vidimče (1921-2010) from Bitola and Nikola Martinoski (1903-1973) from Kruševo.

This private museum (Етнолошки Музеј во Подмочани/Etnološki Muzej vo Podmočani) was established in 1993 by the Eftimovski family. It houses over 3,000 objects (jewelry, coins, furniture...), including the largest collection of traditional costumes in North Macedonia with almost every region represented. Note that the village of Podmočani (approx. 260 inhabitants) has a strange name meaning "under the pee": an unfortunate deformation of the word močurište ("marsh").

This Orthodox church (Црквата Свети Ѓорѓи/Crkvata Sveti Gorgi) houses some of the most precious frescoes in the Balkans. Built in the late ^12th century, it belonged to a monastery whose other buildings have disappeared. Its frescoes are dated 1191: an inscription on the apse indicates that the (anonymous) painters began work on April 25 of that year. They are, according to researchers, an "extreme culmination" of the great artistic movement of the Byzantine Comnenes dynasty (1081-1185), whose influence can be seen as far afield as the West.

Building. Situated on a flattened hill surrounded by trees, the church offers a beautiful panorama of Lake Prespa. It resembles a farmhouse, a rectangular building (17 x 7 m) built of stone and brick lintels, which was modified in the 1920s: a porch and wooden ceiling were added, and the south and north entrances were converted into windows. Under the porch remain ^12th-century frescoes: portraits of Saints George, Theodore and Demetrios on horseback, of the donors (an unidentified Byzantine noble couple), of Byzantine Emperor Isaac II Angel (1185-1204) with his wife, and of Ohrid Archbishop John V Kamateros (1183-1216). Inside, the 5 m-high walls are covered with frescoes, with the exception of some lost sections, notably on the west wall and on the upper areas. However, the church has no iconostasis or icons of any value.

The apse. The eastern wall, facing the main entrance, is adorned with the most important and best-preserved frescoes. The pediment, above the apsidal conch, features the Pentecost scene (revelation of the Holy Spirit): Christ in majesty - badly damaged - appears to the Mother of God, surrounded by the archangels Gabriel and Michael, and the apostles. The conch itself develops the theme of the Annunciation (the archangel Gabriel announcing to Mary her divine maternity): the Mother of God presents the infant Jesus as a symbol of the Lamb of God (sacrificial victim). She is again flanked by the archangels Gabriel (left) and Michael. This particularly famous depiction of Gabriel, nicknamed the "Angel of Kurbinovo", appears on 50-denar banknotes. On either side of the conch are Gabriel and Mary. Finally, the altar and side walls feature the Fathers of the Church, St. George, St. Erasmus, the evangelists St. Cyril and Methodius and their disciple St. Clement of Ohrid, St. Achilles of Larissa (patron of the Bulgarian Emperor Samuel) and the Catholic Pope Clement III (who tried to avoid schism with the Orthodox). In addition to its stylistic quality (supple bodies, rendering of drapery, etc.), this cycle contains exemplary elements both politically (Bulgarian heritage, relations with Rome) and iconographically, with the oldest fresco of St. Methodius and the only ^12th-century portrait of St. Clement of Ohrid. Finally, this is the first time in Byzantine iconography that the amnos (theme of the Lamb of God) is depicted in this way, surrounded by representatives of the Church, heaven and earth, a form that was later standardized.

South wall. To the right of the main entrance, the wall is decorated with the cycle of the Great Feasts (Nativity, Baptism of Christ, etc.). These include the double scene of the Visitation, at the corner with the east wall (apse): Mary, who has just learned that she is pregnant, goes to visit her cousin Elizabeth, herself pregnant by Saint John the Baptist. In the first scene, young Mary is reunited with Elizabeth, a tired old woman. They embrace and kiss. The second scene, partly deleted, illustrates the last three months of Elizabeth's pregnancy, during which the two women live together. The reunion scene is particularly moving. It illustrates the complicity of motherhood that unites the two cousins. Such an outpouring of emotion is uncommon in Christian art. In fact, it is one of the most striking scenes of the Visitation in Christian iconography. The theme of motherhood recurs in the lower area, near the door, with a rare scene: Mary as a child being suckled by her mother, Saint Anne.

Other frescoes. Around the main entrance, the western wall is richly decorated. The pediment is dominated by the Pantheon of Saints, incompletely preserved. This is also where the cycle of the Great Festivals, begun on the south wall, and the Passion on the north wall, come to an end. Among the most striking scenes are the Ascension, with Christ dispensing living waters (symbolizing the Holy Spirit and eternal life) surrounded by the Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist, and the entry into Jerusalem, the Transfiguration (Christ reveals his divine nature to the apostles Peter, James and John), the Dormition of the Mother of God, the Last Judgment and the Theophany of the Ancient of Days (divine revelation of the coming of the Messiah) marked by the presence of cherubim, seraphim and angels. Also of note is Saint Marine stunning Beelzebub. On the north wall, scenes from the Crucifixion and Lamentations (Passion cycle) stand out, as does the large portrait of St. George, answering the portrait of Christ, symbol of Peace, on the south wall.

The name of this ravine (Француски Тел/Francuski Tel) bears the memory of World War I fighting. It's a natural fault in the foothills of Mount Galičica, around 900 m above sea level. Between October 1915 and September 1918, the Macedonian front passed through here: the French Armée d'Orient and a Russian contingent held the southern parts of the great Prespa lake and Mount Galičica, between Oteševo and Trpejca (southeast of Lake Ohrid), while Bulgarian forces were established to the north with elements of the German army.

Created in 2020, this protected area (Заштитен Предел Осоговски Планини/Zaštiten Predel Osogovski Planini) covers 488 ^km2 between Kriva Palanka, Kratovo and Kočani. Managed by the private company Pharmachem, it is home to extensive forest areas (beech, oak, elm, hornbeam, ash, hazel) and two protected animals: the lanner falcon(Falco biarmicus) and an endemic species of newt. From Kriva Palanka, a road leads to the Stanecki waterfalls and the small Kalin Kamen lake.

With its cobblestone streets, mosques, and caravanserais, the historic "Old Sharia" district (Стара Чаршија/Stara Čaršija, Çarshia e Vjetër) is Skopje's most pleasant. Often referred to as the "old bazaar" or "Old Bazaar" in English, it occupies a large part of the eastern bank. Mostly populated by Albanians and Turks, it has many small shops, a large open-air market and most of the city's old Ottoman buildings. It is a charchia. This term comes from the Turkish çarşı, itself derived from the Persian chaharsu meaning "crossroads". It refers to an urban complex comprising one or more mosques, buildings managed by Islamic foundations, and businesses, part of the profits of which paid for the staff and maintenance of public and religious buildings. A sharia is therefore much more than a simple "bazaar". In this case, it is the largest and best preserved of the Balkans. It was created by the Ottomans from 1392, then modified and enlarged during five centuries. The location was not chosen at random, since there was an emporio here, a Byzantine trading post active since at least the ^12th century. Although the district withstood the 1963 earthquake better than the modern city, it was largely reduced in the 1960s and 1970s by the construction of the Goce-Delčev (south), Krste-Petkov-Misirkov (east) and Nikola-Karev (north) boulevards.

This beautiful and venerable plane tree (Охридскиот Чинар/Ohridskiot Činar)is the most famous tree in the country. Referred to by the generic Turkish term çınar ("sycamore"), it is actually an Oriental plane tree(Platanus orientalis). Legend has it that it was planted in the ^10th century by St. Clement of Ohrid himself. A plaque installed on site by the municipality in 2019 accredits this theory. But its presence is actually more recent. It dates back to the ^fifteenth century, at the beginning of the Ottoman period, when the charchia was built.

Matka Canyon is part of this nature reserve (Резерват Јасен/Reservat Jansen). Created in 1958, this one covers 31,127 ha (311 ^km2) along the Treska River with superb scenery between the artificial Kozjak lake and the Matka canyon. It includes several entrances and marked hiking trails in the mountains on either side of the river. However, the website of the organization in charge of the reserve is in Macedonian only.

This small natural site (Долина на Кактусите/Dolina na Kaktusite) is located at the edge of the Demir Kapija Gorge, 270 m above sea level, in the abandoned village of Klisura/Клисура, whose name of Greek origin refers to a mountain pass. There is a large field of cacti here: prickly pear trees(Opuntia ficus-indica) that yield edible fruit and yellow flowers in summer. It is located just south of the church of Saint Nicholas (^19th century). There are also rare vultures and, nearby, the Zmejovec ("dragonfly") cave.

Created in 2012, this protected area (Парк на Природата Езерани/Park na Prirodata Ezerani) extends over 20 ^km2 in the Resensko marshes, an important nesting area for Prespa Lakes birds. This is where you'll find the highest concentration of white and curly pelicans. Managed by the municipality of Resen and the Macedonian Ecological Society, the park features observation towers and trails, English-language signs and an information center. By appointment, you can take part in a guided tour with one of the park rangers.

This peak (Лисец, pronounced "lilies") reaches 1,754 m in altitude. It is the highest point of the small Plačkovica massif, which extends 34 km in length between the Radoviš region in the south and Kočani in the northwest. The various peaks and the Zrnovska Valley, which bisects the massif, are popular for their hiking routes. Several accommodations are available there, including the Bel Kamen Hotel. About 5 km northwest of it is a building used as a hospital by partisans during World War II.

This mountain range (Крчин Планина/Krčin Planina, or Mali i Kërçinit in Albanian and Kırçin Dağı in Turkish) stretches for around 90 ^km2 between Albania and Northern Macedonia, partly within the Mavrovo National Park. Framed by the Dešat massif to the north and Lake Debar to the south, it culminates at Golem Krčin, 2,341 m above sea level, on the border between the two countries, just above Rostuša. A little further south are the peaks of Deli Senica (2,174 m), Rudina (2,238 m) and Crvena Ploča (2,107 m). The Krčin is the only habitat for a rare endemic flower, the Macedonian carnation(Dianthus macedonicus). The massif is best known for its hot, sulfurous springs, which are exploited at the Banište and Kosovrasti thermal baths near Debar. It is also an important gypsum reserve, with a quarry at Dono Kosovrasti, north of Lake Debar. Mount Krčin is also ideal for hiking. An easy 3.5 km trail leads from Rostuša to the important village of Skudrinje/Скудриње (Skudrinye in Turkish). Located just south of the Mavrovo National Park, it is home to around a thousand Turks (76%) and Macedonian Muslims (the Torbeš). Still departing from Rostuša, another more demanding route in the form of a loop (22 km) passes south of Velebrdo/Велебрдо, then through Bituše/Битуше, at 986 m altitude, before climbing to the Golem Krčin and skirting the border to the Deli Senica and Rudina peaks. The descent to Rostuša then passes by the pretty Duf waterfall.

This artificial lake of 4.5 ^km2 (Езеро Мантово/Ezero Mantavo) is a popular destination for local residents. Some of them have a second home there. There are also fishermen and two restaurants. The lake was created in 1978 on the Kriva Lakavica River for the water needs of the Bučim mine and to irrigate nearby farms. To the north, near the dam, the village of Dolna Vrachtica/Долна Враштиц is deserted. To the southeast, the village of Gabrevci/Габревци (220 inhabitants) is home to one last pottery workshop.

This peak (Титов Врв/Titov Vrv) is the highest point in the Šar Mountains, at 2,747 or 2,748 m above sea level. It has been named after Yugoslav President Josip Broz Tito since 1953, but retains its former name of "Great Turk" (Turku i Madh) in Albanian. A 12 km trail leads from Popova Šapka. Allow 4 hours for the walk (and 3h30 for the return). This hike is quite demanding. It passes over the Vakuf plateau, at an altitude of 2,000 m, and Mount Bakardan, at 2,704 m, with patches of snow still holding out in July. The route is well signposted and marked in red. It is described on signs at the ski resort and on various websites such as wikiloc.com. The Ljuboten mountaineering club offers the excursion with an experienced guide (price: approx. €65/MKD 4,000). The club also organizes a group climb every last weekend in May for around 200 people (price: €15/900 KD). At the top is a 9.3 m-high cylindrical tower built in 1951, where you can spend the night. From here, you can enjoy views of all the peaks of the Šar Mountains, in particular Piribreg (2,524 m) and Ljubuten (2,498 m) to the northeast, and Velika Rudoka (2,660 m) and Borislavec (2,675 m) to the south. Also visible are Mount Korab (2,764 m), the highest point in North Macedonia and Albania, in the Mavrovo National Park (to the southeast), and Mount Pelister, the highest point of Mount Baba, in the Pelister National Park near Bitola.

Located 580 m above sea level, this artificial lake (Дебарско Езеро/Debarsko Ezero, Liqeni i Dibrës) borders the town of Debar and covers an area of 13.2 ^km2. Also known as Špilje (Шпиље), it is the country's largest artificial lake after Tikveš and Mavrovo. Created in 1968, it stretches 22 km from Dolno Kosovraci (Banishta in Albanian) in the north to the hamlet of Drenok in the south. In the north, its widest section is 2.5 km long, with a maximum depth of 92 m. The waters of the country's second largest river, the Black Drin, are held back here by the Špilje dam. Located 5 km south-west of Debar, the dam stands 102 m high. It is used to irrigate the region and powers a hydroelectric plant that produces an average of 300 million kilowatt-hours. Popular with fishermen for its abundance of fish, the lake also receives water from the Radika River to the north. This is where the only structure crossing the lake, the Melnički Bridge, is located. Built at the same time as the dam, between 1966 and 1968, it is 368 m long and allows the R 1202 road to cross from one shore to the other. The western bank is the most developed, with the town of Debar and the dam. The eastern bank includes several hamlets and villages belonging to the municipality of Centar Župa, where the majority of the population is Turkish. To the southeast, away from the lake, lies Kodžadžik, the birthplace of Atatürk's father, the founder of modern Turkey.

This river (Кратовска Река) originates in the Osogovo massif and receives three streams in the center of Kratovo. Here, its steep banks are developed for walking and four Ottoman bridges span it. Of particular note is the Čaršiski ("Tsar's") bridge erected in 1804 in honor of the sultan opposite the clock tower. Downstream, next to the old prison and museum, the Grofčanski Bridge bears the name of the family that built it around 1720. The Kratovska then joins the Kriva (a tributary of the Vardar), 9 km to the west, at the hamlet of Ketenovo.

Set into a cliff on the edge of the lake, this Orthodox rock church (Црква Свети Атанасиј/Crkva Sveti Atanasij) dates from the ^mid-14th century. It houses superb frescoes from the 1360s, which were rediscovered during a restoration in 1964. Particularly noteworthy are the portraits of saints (St. Clement of Ohrid, St. Nicholas, St. Petka, etc.), inspired by those in St. Sophia Cathedral in Ohrid, but more realistic and "alive", with magnificent drapery in particular.

The steep Dlaboka valley (Длабока Река/Dlaboka Reka, Përroi i Thellë), whose name means "deep", is home to primeval forest, in the Korab massif and within Mavrovo National Park. It ends grandly at the foot of the Korab waterfall (Корапски Водопад/Korabski Vodopad, Ujëvara e Korabit), one of the largest in the Balkans. Since 2021, part of the valley (2 ^km2) has been included on Unesco's World Heritage list of 94 "primary beech forests of the Carpathians and other parts of Europe". The Dlaboka River rises at Lake Mal Korab ("Little Korab"), at 2,310 m altitude. It is a tributary of the Ribnička, which flows into the Radika. The valley can be crossed from the abandoned hamlet of Ribnica (Рибница, Rimnica). This is at an altitude of 970 m, 16.5 km west of Mavrovi Anovi or 21.5 km north of Rostuša. From the hamlet of Volkovija (Волковија, Vallkavi), first follow a carriage road (by 4 x 4 or on foot) for 4.5 km to Ribnica. From here, a footpath leads to the waterfall where the Dlaboka falls from a height of more than 100 m between around 2,050 and 1,950 m above sea level. It's a 13 km walk to get there, with an ascent of 1,000 m. The return journey is by the same route (26 km in total). This challenging hike is not described on the national park website. However, guides are available to accompany you, and several routes are described on the wikiloc.com website.

Discovered in 1919, this site (Археолошкиот Локалитет Големо Градиште/Arheološkiot Lokalitet Golemo Gradište) contains the remains of a Byzantine city founded in the^fifth century on a promontory in the Kriva Valley. The foundations of several buildings are visible: two basilicas, two villas, streets and a cistern around what must have been the central square. In the distance, there are also hermit cells. In summer, local and American archaeologists can be seen working there.

This peak (Црн Камен/Crn Kamen, Guri I Zi) is the highest point of Mount Jablanica, at 2,257 m above sea level. It lies on the border with Albania, at GPS point 41.246393, 20.521880, about 5.8 km west of Vevčani as the crow flies. Nearby is the small Lake Večani (2,810^m2), at an altitude of 1,993 m. The summit and lake can be reached by a 13.6 km loop trail from the hamlet of Gorna Belica, itself 11.8 km on foot southwest of the Vevčani springs. The route from Gorna Belica to the summit is detailed on wikiloc.com.

This agency offers tours and excursions by electric bicycle. It's well done with an English-speaking guide, but rather expensive: from 8,600 MKD/person (€140). The downtown tour (2h-2h30) includes visits to Stara Čaršija, Skopje Fortress and the Mother Teresa Memorial House. In the surrounding area, tours are organized to Mount Vodno (3h30-4h) and Matka Canyon (4h-5h). Multi-day excursions are also available to Ohrid and Prespa lakes and the country's four national parks.

Housed in a former school surrounded by greenery and peacocks, this private museum (Музеј на Виното Демир Капија) is open since 2010. Inside, a real bric-a-brac awaits you: wine containers from the 1930s of the royal family of Serbia, antique pottery, old photos of Demir Kapija's first tractor, stills, numismatic collection, traditional clothing, an exhibition on the birds of the region... An inventory à la Prévert as poorly presented as interesting.

This cave (Пештера Пешна/Peštera Pešna) has the largest opening of any cave in the Balkans: 40 m high and 56 m wide. It lies beneath Mount Dautica (2,178 m above sea level), near the modern minimonastery of Archangel Michael in the hamlet of Pešna (pop. 5). Compared to Helm's Deep in The Lord of the Rings, its entrance is guarded by medieval fortifications. Easy to access, the first chamber is home to swallows and bats. But it belongs to the country's largest cave network, estimated to be 10 km long.

This beautiful artificial lake (Езеро Матка/Ezero Matka) extends over 50 ^km2 and 10 km in length in the Matka canyon. This owes its name to its narrowness, which evoked for the ancient inhabitants a... womb(матка/matka in Macedonian). It was created on the river Treska with the construction of a dam and a hydroelectric plant in 1937. The Treska river has its source in the small Stogovo massif, near Mavrovo and the Albanian border. It then joins the Vardar north of Skopje, after a 132 km run. It forms here a lake with superb landscapes. This one is enclosed between impressive cliffs falling sometimes on more than 1 000 m height. If the place is very touristic, it is also an important biological reserve, not so much in the water itself but on the banks and on the edge of the cliffs where live for example astonishing lizards with the blue neck. The area around the lake is also home to 77 endemic species of butterflies and 20% of the flora is also endemic, meaning that certain plants and flowers are found almost exclusively here. The ten or so caves in the canyon are home to several colonies of bats.

Canoeing, boat touring or hiking. The northern part of the lake is easy to discover by water or on foot. Rental companies offer canoes, kayaks or paddles. Most visitors are satisfied with a short crossing to picnic areas not far from the tourist area. There are also excursion boats to the Vrelo cave, a natural wonder rich in stalactites, stalagmites and bats... which are constantly disturbed by groups of tourists. After this cave, the waters are suitable for swimming: the lake is quite cool, but it is much cleaner here than downstream, near the tourist area. Finally, the lake can also be discovered on foot by paths along the cliffs. These are quite steep and require good shoes, but they allow to visit medieval churches and small orthodox monasteries perched on the heights. There are also beautiful views of the canyon and the two small mountains that surround it: Mount Osoj (1,401 m), to the north, and Mount Suva (1,857 m), to the south. There are also trails under Mount Osoj. These are not marked, but in theory they allow to reach the other end of the lake of Matka 10 km to the southwest. Here the Treska forms another artificial lake, the Kozjak lake (13 km2), located 39 km east of Gostivar.

This is the source (Извор на Вардар/Izvor na Vardar, Burimi i lumit Vardar) of the Vardar, the country's main river (380 km long, 76 km of which is in Greece). At an altitude of 683 m, the water emerges from karstic rocks at a very high flow rate (1.5^m3/second), next to the Orthodox Church of Archangel Michael, erected in 1924. Particularly pure and cold, it is used by local farmers, as well as to feed large trout-breeding ponds, which can be found on the menu of many Vrutok restaurants.

The hill of the "Holy City" (Светиград or Svetigrad in Turkish and Sfetigrad in Albanian) is a rocky mass that rises to an altitude of 1,100 m. According to the most widespread theory, the siege of Svetigrad took place here, from May 14 to July 31, 1448. This battle, lost by the Albanians, marked the beginning of Skanderbeg's war against the Ottomans, which lasted until 1478. But some Albanian historians claim that the site of the confrontation could have been in Pelagonia, at Drevenik/Древеник, a hamlet 15 km southeast of Demir Hisar.

This beautiful little glacial lake (Караниколичко Езеро/Karanikoličko Ezero, Liqeni Karanikollës) lies at an altitude of 2,110 m, around 500 m west of Kosovo and below the Karanikola peak (2,409 m). Also known as the "Grand Gjol" (Голем Ѓол/Golem Gjol, Gjoli pa Fund), it covers 2.7 ha, is 590 m long, 115 m wide and has a maximum depth of 5.60 m. It can be reached by a 14.3 km trail that starts at Bozovce (1,325 m above sea level) and ends at the village of Vešala (1,425 m), itself 2 km east of Bozovce by road. The lake is distinguished by the color of its water, which oscillates between light blue, turquoise, violet and dark blue. The water is considered the "softest" in the Balkans, with a hydrogen potential (pH) of around 6.5. Nearby, rare endemic flowers such as Šar mullein(Verbascum scardicolum) and Šar sainfoin(Onobrychis scardica) grow. The trail from Bozovce takes around 6h30. It is described on a sign in the village and on various websites such as balkanhikingadventure.com. With an ascent of 885 m, this route is considered difficult and requires a good level of fitness. But it offers superb views of the rock formations known as the "three hazelnut trees" (Лешнички Карпи/Leshnichki Karpi), Tito's Peak (the highest point in the Šar Mountains), the Pena River (Пена, Lumi i Shkumbinit) and Karanikola Peak. On the way back down to Vešala, you'll enjoy panoramic views of the Vrtop (2,555 m) and Kobilica (2,528 m) peaks.

This small island, whose name means "big city" (Голем Град), is one of three islands in the two Prespa lakes. Covering an area of 18 ha, it is the only island in North Macedonia. Also known as Snake Island (Змиски Островou/Zmiski Ostrovou) or Saint Peter's (Свети Петар/Sveti Petar), it is a formidable nature reserve home to exceptional flora and fauna: snakes, turtles, birds... 750 m long and 450 m wide, its summit rises 50 m above the lake. Today uninhabited, it boasts important historical remains. Golem Grad was inhabited for two thousand years, and monasteries were active here between the ^10th and ^14th centuries. In addition to a Roman necropolis, six churches have been discovered. Of these, St. Peter's, built in the ^14th century by the Serbian lord Volkašin, is the best preserved. It features a fresco of Mary's flight into Egypt, a theme rarely depicted in the region's medieval churches. There's also an early Christian basilica (^4th-5th century). But to admire all this, you mustn't be afraid of snakes. There are an estimated 50,000 of them on the island. In other words, they're everywhere, in the water and in the trees. CNRS researcher Xavier Bonnet, who has carried out several missions there, is reassuring: "The two most common species are not dangerous: tesselated snakes are not venomous and ammodytes rarely bite. These animals are very timid, not the type to jump at your ankles."

This beautiful waterfall (Тресонечки Водопад/Tresonečki Vodopad) is located at 1,370 m a.s.l., near the source of the Tresonečka River and at the foot of Golem Brzovec (2,082 m a.s.l.), a peak on Mount Bistra. A well-marked 3 km trail leads to it from Tresonče. Around 500 m before the waterfall, the path passes close to the Alilica cave, 590 m deep and known by cavers for its great difficulty. The first chamber can be reached by bending down. You'll need good shoes, a flashlight and even a helmet to go any further.

This amazing geological site (Камени Кукли/Kameni Kukli) evokes, in a miniature version, the Turkish valley of Göreme, in Cappadocia. It covers about 400^m2 and owes its name to the hundred and twenty or so rock columns that stand here in a small valley on the right bank of the Kriva River. Most of these "stone dolls" are no more than 5 m high, but a group of about fifteen columns reaches at least 10 m high. According to one legend, they are petrified soldiers while crossing a burning forest. Another version wants that these columns are inhabitants of the region changed into stone while they took part in a marriage between two lovers of rival villages. It is true that some of the shapes evoke human or animal bodies. The scientific reality is that they are "fairy chimneys": columns of volcanic deposits rather friable, whose more resistant top ensured the maintenance against erosion. Here, the phenomenon occurred over a period of about 100,000 years with volcanic rocks (andesite and ignimbrite) that are themselves at least 30 million years old. The site is relatively clean and well maintained. Along the trail are picnic tables and a gift store. On the other side of the parking lot is a rather nice traditional restaurant, Restoran Etno Kuklica (facebook.com/KuklicaEtno) with an outdoor pool and a large garden.

Known as the "Tsar's Towers" (Цареви Kули/Carevi Kuli), this fortress is located halfway up Mount Elenica (971 m) overlooking Strumica to the west. Most of the structure dates from the reign of the Bulgarian Tsar Samuel ^I (997-1014). Not much remains of this small castle, but the views are superb. The old keep, known as the "Pirg Tower", has been restored. Elsewhere, the remains of another tower, ramparts, a chapel, a well, a cistern and the powerful gateway to the east, near the signal tower, can be seen.

This tourist area (Крстовар, pronounced "krastovar") has the most beautiful views of the Skopje region. It is located at the top of Mount Vodno, around the highest point, Krstovar peak, at 1,066 m above sea level. The latter bears the name "Place of the Cross" since the Ottoman period. It now houses the Millennium Cross, the AEK tower, the arrival station of the Millennium Cross cable car, the Dare-Džambaz guesthouse, cafes and restaurants, a playground and picnic tables. It is also a popular site for mountaineers and the starting and ending point of many hiking trails, one of which allows you to reach the Matka canyon in about 3 hours. By the way, since 2018, passes here, in March, the Vodno-Matka marathon (vodnomatka.mk), which starts from the tourist area of Sdreno Vodno. It is not quite a marathon, since the course is "only" 40.6 km. But it is still a dreaded race because of its 2 680 m of difference in altitude. Since the construction of the cable car in 2011, the Krstovar peak can be enjoyed with much less effort. Many Skopians come here even in the middle of winter, when the summit is covered with snow and the thermometer shows -20°C. The view from here is breathtaking, not only of the Skopje agglomeration, but also of the Mokra Planina ("wet mountain" to the south, 2,540 m) and the Skopska Crna Gora (to the northeast, on the Serbian border, 1,651 m).