The most beautiful natural sites to discover Northern Macedonia

This "big town" (golem grad) is also known as the island of snakes or "Île Saint-Pierre". It is the only island in the country and a magnificent natural reserve with exceptional flora and fauna: snakes, turtles, birds… 750 m long and 450 m wide, its summit is 50 m above the lake. Today, uninhabited, it houses the remains of several civilizations. Golem Grad was indeed populated for two thousand years, and the monasteries were active between the Xe and the XIV century. In addition to a Roman necropolis, six churches were discovered. Among them, Saint Peter's Church, erected at the time of the Serbian Lord Volkašin (XIV century), was best preserved. One of its characteristics is the fresco of the leak of Mary in Egypt, a theme rarely represented in medieval churches of the region. You can also see a paleochristian basilica (end of the century-Ve century), in which the fragments of a mosaic have been discovered. To admire all this, he does not fear snakes. They would be 50,000 on the island. To say that we cross all the time, all the time, in water and in trees. The researcher of the CNRS Xavier Bonnet, a snake specialist, conducted several missions and was reassuring: The two most common species are not dangerous: tesselated snakes are not venimous and ammodyte vials bite scarcely. These animals are very fearful, not the kind to jump to your ankle. " "

Donkey's Peak" (Врв Магаро/Vrv Magaro) is the highest peak on Mount Galičica, at 2,255 m above sea level (GPS: 40.932886, 20.820534). It lies between the P 504 road between Lakes Ohrid and Prespa to the north and the Albanian border to the south. A 5.6 km loop starts from the road at Lipova/Липова, 17.7 km east of Trpejca. At the summit, a white and red marker bears the name and altitude of the peak. The views are superb: of the two lakes, but also of Mali i Thatë ("dry mountain"), which reaches 2,787 m in altitude, in Albania.

This 27 km-long former military road (P 504) offers magnificent scenery. It passes close to the Magaro peak and the Albanian border, crossing Mount Galičica between the two lakes. It connects road P 501, 3 km south of Trpejca, on the eastern shore of Lake Ohrid, with Tsarina/Царина, south of Oteševo, on the western shore of Lake Prespa. Don't miss a stopover at the Galičica pass, at an altitude of 1,660 m, to enjoy the grandiose views over the two lakes.

This small spa (Катлановска Бања) is located in a meander of the Pčinja River. The 40 °C water that emerges here from a deep fault has virtues against rheumatism and skin lesions. You can bathe in a cave along the river or at the pool of the adjacent medical center (katlanovskaspa.com). Next to this building is a monument to the memory of the Greek and Yugoslav wounded who were evacuated and died here during the Greek civil war of 1946-1949.

These gorges (Бадерската Клисура/Badarska Klisura) stretch for 9 km along the Pčinja River, between Badar and Vardar where the Pčinja flows. Surrounded by hills between 400 and 500 m in altitude, they were an important strategic site in the early Middle Ages. Above the village of Badar, 1.2 km to the northwest, are the remains of the walled city of Baderiana/Бадеријана. This is the supposed birthplace of the Roman emperor Justin ^I (c. 450/452), founder of the first Byzantine dynasty and father of the great emperor Justinian.

This mountain range (Бистра Планина/Bistra Planina) covers 573 ^km2 in the southeastern half of Mavrovo National Park and part of Kičevo municipality. It includes fifteen peaks over 2,000 m above sea level, culminating in the Medecina/Меденица ("honeycomb") peak, at 2,163 m above sea level, near the village of Galičnik. Renowned for its forests, caves (undeveloped for tours), numerous rivers and small glacial lake Senečko (at 1,870 m a.s.l., 4.4 km west as the crow flies from the village of Mavrovo), it is also the setting for many sporting activities: skiing at the Zare-Lazarevski resort, off-piste skiing around Galičnik, paragliding, hiking, horseback riding or mountain biking. An 11 km trail links the Mavrovo National Park information center with the village of Vrben/Врбен (130 inhabitants, above Mavrovi Anovi) via the Koža peak, 1,740 m above sea level. Another, 14.3 km long and considerably more difficult, connects the Zare-Lazarevski resort with Galičnik via the Medecina peak. But one of the most frequently recommended routes is between the village of Nikiforovo/Никифорово (population 50, on the eastern shore of Lake Mavrovo) and Sandaktaš peak/Сандакташ, at 1,983 m above sea level. It requires an 8 km walk (approx. 2h30) with a 700 m ascent. It presents no particular difficulty and offers superb views of Mount Korab, Lake Mavrovo and, to the southeast, the Treska valley and the town of Kičevo.

The "Salt Spring Cave" (Пештера Слатински Извор/Peštera Slatinski Izvor) is the largest in the country. It is over 4 km long, of which around 1,000 m have been explored, and is home to numerous stalactites and stalagmites, a river and several small lakes. Unesco-listed, it was created in dolomitic marble during the last Ice Age. The entrance is through a small, crudely-constructed opening. But it's best not to venture too far without caving equipment and experience.

This peak (Црн Врв/Crn Vrv, Maja e Zezë) lies at 2,585 m altitude in the Šar Mountains, on the border with Kosovo. It offers grandiose views over the entire massif and as far as the large Kosovar town of Prizren, some 17 km to the north-west as the crow flies. It can be reached via a relatively difficult, poorly-marked 8 km trail from Vejce (approx. 4.5 hrs walk and 1,500 m ascent). The route is described on several websites, including sharplanina.com.mk and sharamountainguide.com.mk. Scheuchzer's cottongrass(Eriophorum scheuchzeri), a "cottony" plant found mainly in Arctic peat bogs from Alaska to Siberia, as well as in a few valleys in the Alps and Pyrenees, was recently discovered near the Black Peak. It's also possible to reach the Black Peak via another 20.8 km itinerary, which ends in Vejce and requires a 9h hike. This one starts from the hamlet of Brezno/Брезно (officially, 3 Macedonian inhabitants) which is located at 975 m a.s.l., 6 km northeast of Lešok. First, you have to follow a carriage road (by 4 x 4 or on foot) to the locality of "Les Trois-Eaux" (Tri Vode/Три Воде) at 1,320 m above sea level. The trail then crosses the Tearečka Bistrica river and leads along Mount Suva Dupka (2,492 m) and to the summit of the Black Peak, before descending to the village of Vejce. The route is difficult and unmarked, with an ascent of 1,610 m. We recommend that you do both hikes with a guide.

This "Three Men" peak (Три Мажи/Tri Maži) is part of Mount Galičica. It rises to 1,630 m above sea level at GPS 41.068529, 20.846229, southeast of de Velestovo. Starting from the hamlet, it can be reached via a superb 12 km loop trail with a 600 m vertical drop. The first seven kilometers are uphill, the next five downhill. Along the way, you'll enjoy beautiful views of the lake and the town of Ohrid. The route is fairly easy. Details can be found on wikiloc.com and mymacedoniablog.wordpress.com.

This small lake surrounded by a beautiful forest (Езерото Острово/Ezeroto Ostrovo) is 220 m long and 140 m wide, with a maximum depth of 3.5 m. It is fed by a complex known as the "Saint Naum spring" (Извори Свети Наум/Izvori Sveti Naum). It consists of 48 springs, 30 of which are underwater. These are resurgences of natural channels originating from Lake Prespa and passing beneath Mount Galičica. The lake includes three green islands, one of which is home to the Ostrovo restaurant. The lake can be explored by rowing boat with a guide.

This waterfall (Самовилски Водопад/Samovilski Vodopad) is little-known and difficult to access due to the damp ground. But it is... enchanting! The Samovilski River, a small tributary of the Radika River, falls here in staircases 8 m high between moss-covered rocks and in the middle of a thick forest. It's just 50 m from the road, near the junction between the roads to Strezimir, Kosovo and the abandoned village of Brodec. But 50 m on slippery ground must be a trick of the fairies, who prefer to keep to themselves here.

This mountain range (Кораб Планина/Korab Planina, Mali i Korabit), whose name means "boat" in Albanian, stretches over 400 ^km2 between Northern Macedonia and Albania. Its summit, the Golem Korab (Голем Кораб, Maja e Korabit), is the highest point in both countries, at 2,764 m above sea level. This "great Korab" is the fourth highest peak in the Balkans. The massif boasts nine other peaks over 2,500 m in altitude, three of which flank the Golem Korab: Korab II (2,753 m), Korab III (2,745 m), both on the border, and Radomira Peak (2,716 m) in Albania. A little further south are Malokorapska Stena (2,725 m) and the "little Korab", Mal Korab (2,683 m). Surrounded by the Šar massif (2,748 m) to the north and the Dešat massif (2,372 m) to the south, the Korab is part of a vast protected area with the Mavrovo National Park in northern Macedonia and the Korab-Koritnik Natural Park (555 ^km2) in Albania. On the Albanian side, to the west, the walls are rocky. However, the Korab Golem is accessible via a 9.4 km trail from Radomira (1,250 m above sea level, 35 km north of Peshkopi). In North Macedonia, there are several more scenic routes. The one from Strezimir stretches over 8.5 km with a 1,318 m ascent, passing Lake Korab at 2,470 m altitude. It requires a good level of fitness. You can then return to Strezimir or descend to Radomira. In either case, check with the information center in Mavrovo Anovi before you set off.

This beautiful waterfall (Дуфски Водопад/Dufski Vodopad or Duf Şelalesi in Turkish) is formed by the Rostuška river, which here makes a 23.5 m high jump through a narrow gorge, before filling a small basin and then joining the Radika. The water here flows powerfully, averaging 90 litres/second in winter. But the site is most beautiful in autumn or spring. The waterfall is located below Rostuša, about 30 minutes' walk from the village or 15 minutes from the road along a well-marked path.

This is the largest artificial lake in the country (Тиквешко Езеро/Tikveško Ezero). With an area of 14 ^km2, it is used for fishing (wild fish and livestock) and frequented by bathers in summer with many second homes in the northern part, around the Tikveš dam and the hamlets of Brušani/Брушани, Resava/Рeсава and Goleš/Голеш. To the south, on the western shore, is the most valuable historical monument in the region - the Polog Monastery, which is only accessible by boat. The lake extends 29 km in length from south to north to the dam. The 105 m high dam is used for electricity production and irrigation. Since 1968, it retains the waters of the Crna Reka ("black river"), a tributary of the Vardar, which reaches a depth of over 100 m. The lake is dominated in the west by the Višešnica mountain which reaches 1,557 m in altitude. The landscape is beautiful and well preserved, as there are no roads around the lake except those connecting Kavadarci to the hamlets in the northern part. Four ancient hills emerge from the waters to form the islets of Brušani and Gradište/Градиште (in the northeast), Dradnja/Драдња (in the northwest), and Blaštica/Блаштица (in the very south). In addition to the Polog Monastery, the area around the lake contains another ^16th-century monastery as well as two rock churches. The one of St. Nicholas, known as "Mark's Church" (Маркова Црква), is located near the hamlet of Dradnja, northeast of the lake. It is decorated with the damaged frescoes from the ^14th century.

This rocky mass of volcanic origin (Цоцев Камен, pronounced "tsotsev kamen") dominates the Kriva Valley at 481 m above sea level. Consisting of two hills facing each other, it has strange natural cavities and traces of human presence (red pigments, holes in the rock ...) from the Paleolithic to the Middle Ages. According to some authors, the site was an astronomical observatory, a place of sacrifice... or a shepherds' shelter. But no serious study has yet been conducted. The place remains nevertheless intriguing and superb at sunset.

This peak (Бугарска Чука/Bugarska Čuka) is the highest summit of Mount Galičica in the Elšani area. It reaches an altitude of 1,801 m at GPS point 41.004208, 20.846783. Offering views of both Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa, it owes its name to the Bulgarian positions that faced those of the French here during the First World War. Unexploded ordnance remains on site. The peak can be reached by a 7 km trail from Elšani. Detailed itineraries on wikiloc.com or on the Galičica National Park website.

The natural region of Lake Ohrid has recently been protected by three different international conventions, two of which extend across the border with Albania. Since 1979, only the part located in Northern Macedonia, and in particular the old town of Ohrid, had been listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site. But in 2019, this site was extended to include the entire area around the lake, forming the "Ohrid region": an area of 947 ^km2 that is now classified as a Unesco "natural and cultural heritage" site. This includes not only the lake itself (349 ^km2), but also the Albanian shores, notably the town of Pogradec (population approx. 60,000), south of the lake and 8 km west of the St. Naum monastery, and the peninsula of the village of Lin (population approx. 500, Albanian and Macedonian), west of the lake and 22 km south of Struga. Lake Ohrid is also part of the "Ohrid-Prespa Transboundary Biosphere Reserve", which extends over 4,462 ^km2 around Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa. This was created in 2014 by North Macedonia and Albania under the aegis of Unesco. It is managed by the German-based organization PONT (Prespa Ohrid Nature Trust) (pont.org). Finally, since 2021, the 250 ^km2 North Macedonian part of the lake has been listed under the Ramsar Convention for the preservation of wetlands of international importance with a high concentration of birds and fish.

This lake (Преспанско Езеро/Prespansko Ezero, Liqeni i Prespës, Μεγάλη Πρέσπα/Megali Prespa) is the second largest in North Macedonia, after Ohrid. It is one of Europe's most important ornithological areas: around 42% of the continent's bird species live, stay or nest here. With a theoretical surface area of 259 km², the lake is shared between three countries. Northern Macedonia owns the largest part, 176.3 km². The remainder is divided between Albania (46.3 km²) to the southwest and Greece (36.4 km²) to the south.

Large and small Prespa. There are actually two Prespa lakes. An isthmus 4 km long and 500 m wide separates Lake Prespa - or Great Prespa Lake - from Little Prespa Lake (Мало Преспанско Езеро/Malo Prespansko Ezero, Prespa e Vogël, Μικρή Πρέσπα/Mikri Prespa). Located in the south, it covers 46.8 km². It lies mainly in Greece, with a small part in Albania (4.3 km²). Formed 1 million years ago, the two lakes cover a total area of around 306 km². They are shallow: 14 m on average and 48 m maximum for the large lake, 7.7 m on average for the small lake. They are linked by a natural channel across the isthmus, which lies in Greek territory. They lie 853 m above sea level, between Mount Galičica (2,254 m) to the west, Mount Baba (2,601 m) to the east and Mali i Thatë ("dry mountain", 2,287 m) in Albania to the south, making them the highest non-glacial lakes in the Balkans. Thanks to their elevated position and porous karst configuration, the Prespa lakes supply water to Lake Ohrid via natural underground passages 7 to 12 km long, which run beneath Mount Galičica.

Islands and biodiversity. The lakes include three small islands. On the large Lake Prespa are the islets of Golem Grad (18 ha), in Northern Macedonia, and Maligrad (5 ha), in Albania, both uninhabited. The island of Agios Achillios (80 ha) on Greece's tiny Lake Prespa is inhabited by just twenty or so people. Tourism is underdeveloped, and there are no towns on the shores, only hamlets and villages. But the area is rich in biodiversity, with marshes and reeds, numerous endemic species of fish, crustaceans and aquatic plants.

Waders and pelicans. The Prespa Lakes are one of Europe's most important stopovers for migratory birds from Africa and the Middle East. Large wading birds such as the little egret(Egretta garzetta), great egret(Ardea alba), sickle ibis (Plegadis falcinellus) and black-crowned night heron(Nycticorax nycticorax), and fishing birds such as pygmy cormorant(Microcarbo pygmeus), white pelican(Pelecanus onocrotalus) and curled pelican(Pelecanus crispus). The latter, very rare on the planet, is the largest of the pelicans. The Prespa Lakes are its only breeding ground on the Old Continent. In fact, Europe's largest colony of this bird, with an average wingspan of 3 meters, can be found here.

Ramsar and Unesco. The three national areas of the two lakes are listed under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands: Greece (51 km²) since 1975, Northern Macedonia (189 km²) since 1995 and Albania (151 km²) since 2013. There is also the small Ezerani Nature Park (20 km²), north of the large lake, in Northern Macedonia. The whole area is bordered by four national parks: Galičica (227 km²) and Pelister (171 km²), in Northern Macedonia, Prespa National Park (277 km²), in Albania, and Prespa National Park (51 km²), in Greece. There are also two international protected areas. In 2000, the "Prespa Park" was created between Northern Macedonia, Albania and Greece. It is managed by the Society for the Protection of Prespa (spp.gr), co-founded in 1990 by Swiss biologist Luc Hoffmann (1923-2016) and based in the Greek village of Agios Germanos, on the shores of the small Prespa lake. And, since 2014, the areas of the two Prespa lakes located in Northern Macedonia and Albania have been part of the "Ohrid-Prespa Transboundary Biosphere Reserve" created by Unesco. The reserve extends over 4,462 km² between the two countries. It is managed by the German-based Prespa Ohrid Nature Trust (pont.org).

Threats and disasters. Despite all the protection measures implemented by the three countries, the Prespa Lakes ecosystem remains fragile. The surface area of both lakes is shrinking year by year as a result of global warming. Several endemic species are threatened with extinction, notably the Prespa trout(Salmo peristericus). In 2022, a sudden outbreak of avian flu caused the death of more than 1,700 curly pelicans - around 60% of the colony on the two lakes. This was a catastrophe for a species that had previously numbered fewer than 18,000 individuals worldwide.

A symbol of rapprochement. To end on a more positive note, the Prespa lakes recently served as the setting for a rapprochement between Athens and Skopje. It was in the Greek village of Psarades, on the southern shore of the great lake, that representatives of the two countries signed the historic Prespa Agreement on June 12, 2018. This enabled FYROM (Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia) to finally gain international recognition under the name of "North Macedonia".

Created in 2021, this protected area (Заштитен Предел Малешево/Zaštiten Predel Maleševo) covers 115 ^km2 along the Bulgarian border, between the municipalities of Berovo, Pehčevo and Delčevo. Managed by the national forestry office and the private company Pharmachem, it is home to oak and beech forests. However, in the face of opposition from local forestry companies, tourist facilities have been slow to develop. However, the Spikovski waterfalls are within easy reach.

Here the small Baba River makes a series of jumps to form a wide waterfall 19 m high (Колешински Водопад/Kolešinski Vodopad). Fitted out with picnic tables, the site is located under Mount Beles, 610 m above sea level, near Kolešino. Often frozen in winter, the waterfall is impressive in spring, when the Baba River flows in a torrent. For your information, the village of Kolešino (600 inhabitants) is presented as a model of inter-religious tolerance with Orthodox, four communities of Protestants and another of Jehovah's Witnesses.