Andism, a dream of excess
Like all hostile lands beyond human control, Patagonia has that extra soul that attracts hikers from around the world. Clinging to the imposing glaciers, resisting the impetuous wind, winding through thousand-year-old forests, and skiing or snowshoeing down the slopes: Andism will challenge your physical and mental capacities. A specific term for the practice of mountaineering in the Andes, andisme is therefore a derivative of mountaineering, an activity officially recognized by UNESCO World Heritage in 2019. Listed as intangible cultural heritage, this art of living and climbing high mountain peaks, born in the cradle of the Alps in 1750, highlights know-how, shared cultures and man's unconditional love for the landscape. Beyond transmitting values of humility and respect for nature, andism is also and above all distinguished by technical and mental means where it is necessary to be equipped on often unmarked routes. Privileged moments, personal challenges, daily meditations or passion from the beginning: one does not set out to conquer the mountains without knowing the terrain, which is always changing, especially with global warming. Moreover, the recent inscription of the practice on the UNESCO World Heritage List is a challenge to limit the impact of man on the mountain, in order to better protect it. A noble practice that is aimed at those who will adopt a responsible attitude towards a majestic but fragile nature!
Reaching for the top
Hiking in Patagonia means enjoying an exceptional nature that cannot be seen anywhere else. With its glaciers as far as the eye can see, the region is the third largest freshwater reserve and the largest ice cap in the world after Antarctica and Greenland. Campo Hielo Sur, crowded with crevasses, tunnels and steep ridges, is a white desert of 49 glaciers. Among them, the Pio XI glacier is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. This wall of ice is about ten meters high and spreads over almost 1,250 square kilometers, the equivalent of the city of New York. It is the only glacier that does not retreat today with the Perito Morino, its Argentine cousin. Located between the Campo de Hielo Sur and the Patagonian steppe, the Torres del Paine National Park is characterized in part by its glaciers: the Francés Glacier, the Grey Glacier, the Dickson Glacier... The Geike and Tyndall glaciers, a little further south in the Bernardo O'Higgins Park, are however much more impressive. Finally, in the region of Aysén, the Exploradores glacier and the San Rafael lagoon offer a special moment of intimacy with these ice giants. However, surveying them is not an easy task, there is no path, so put on crampons under your shoes and bring sticks to help you progress. To congratulate you, respect the tradition by drinking a glass of whiskey sprinkled with a few ice cubes directly from the glacier
Moreover, Patagonia is full of chimneys which are as many volcanoes: to push the adrenalin by the ascent of these fire breathers is another challenge to be taken up. In the north of Chile, we find the largest volcano on the planet, Los Ojos de Salado and its 6,893 meters of altitude. Heading south, in the Bío Bío region and the Lakes region, the volcanoes are lower than those in the north, but much more alive: during the 1960 earthquake, no less than ten volcanoes awoke. At the gates of Patagonia, in the Conguillío National Park, the Llaima volcano coexists with the thousand-year-old forests of araucarias. At the top, after having followed the wide corridors left by the lava flows, one can admire the Laguna Captrén and the Conguillío lake. A hundred kilometers to the south, the Villarica with its 200 meter diameter crater offers an affordable ascent (although a good physical condition is required) to a 360° viewpoint of the Lanín volcano in Argentine territory. The ascent of the latter is more athletic: two days of hiking on rock and ice to reach its 1,776 meter summit. This region, as green as it is wild, is famous for its multitude of explosive volcanoes: Chile holds all the geological records with its 150 active volcanoes! The Osorno volcano is certainly the most emblematic with its perfectly conical shape. In the south, the volcanoes are less accessible and subject to unstable weather conditions. This is the case of Mount San Valentín (4,058 m, the highest peak in Patagonia), in the Laguna San Rafael National Park, where it takes a good month to climb because of the climate from the Exploradores Valley. In the Magallanes region, the Lotaro volcano, covered by glaciers, has only had 15 successful ascents since its discovery 50 years ago. However, the discovery of these forces of nature is not limited to trekking and sporting feats: more accessible and equally spectacular hikes are to be discovered in the lakes region, on the Argentine side with the peaceful valley ofEl Bolsón and the Nahuel Huapi National Park or on the Chilean side with the Vicente Perez Rosales Park. Los Alerces National Park, Huilo-Huilo Reserve, Tierra Del Fuego National Park, for example, offer many opportunities to escape the daily routine.
El Chaltén: trek in wild lands
Located in Argentine Patagonia, El Chaltén was named "the mountain that smokes" by the Tehuelche people because of the permanent clouds that hide the silhouette of the emblematic Fitz Roy mountain, one of the most difficult to climb in the world. Overlooking an azure blue lagoon, its steep spires rise like arrows from the ice-covered earth. To admire this jewel of nature, you will need no less than 8 hours of hiking through trails with breathtaking panoramas. A trekking mecca, El Chaltén is located in the Los Glaciares National Park , whose main entrance is in El Calafate, 200 kilometers to the south. It is there that you will be able to admire the Perito Moreno, a monstrous glacier that is easy to observe from the specially equipped platforms. But your hunger for exploration may not be satisfied by walking along its well-trodden paths: with its enigmatic charm, El Chaltén offers multiple hikes through an unspoiled natural backdrop. Mountain hunters will be delighted: each hike reveals incredibly photogenic landscapes and views of primitive beauty between forests, mountains, lakes and glaciers
In order to guide you in your travels, here is a small point on the different options to consider: to begin with, don't miss the mythical Laguna de Los Tres and Fitz Roy hike. It's THE must-do hike that will offer you one of the most memorable views of Patagonia during a rather sportive ascent. Invigorated by a cold wind, leave early in the morning to enjoy the light and clear sky: you will admire even more the summit of the peaks. The second day, leave for the Laguna Torre. Count 3 hours of rather quiet ascent along the river and continue until the Mirador Maestri, a unique point of view overhanging the Grande glacier. Other more relaxing walks (less than 2 hours) can also be done for half a day, such as the one to Laguna Capri and its small beach that offers a different view of Mount Fitz Roy, or the one to the Mirador de Los Condores, a 45-minute walk that will take you, as its name indicates, to a strategic point to observe this majestic Andean bird, playing with the gusts of wind. Finally, the more adventurous will enjoy a prolonged immersion in the park by pitching their tents at the Poincenot campground, a free campground where you can enjoy the cool waters of the river located right next door: the water comes directly from the glaciers, no need to filter! Finally, for those who want to get closer to the clouds, go to the mountainside on the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado. 12 km of trail for 4 hours of walking in not always favorable conditions: up there, the cold and the wind will not be kind, but it is the only place of the park where you will be able to admire the Cerro Torre and the Fitz Roy at the same time! A last one for the road? The Huemul glacier, accessible by the Estancia del Lago, whose ascent is only 40 minutes. A little behind the majority of the paths, it is one of the most beautiful glaciers of the region with its lagoon, of an absolutely unique turquoise blue. The walk reveals itself to be at least fairy-like through a forest that is just as fairy-like. Follow the yellow markings all the way, and continue after the sign indicating that access to the glacier is forbidden, after a few meters of ascent you will arrive at the lagoon. In spite of all its descriptive indications, it is particularly difficult to give a faithful representation of the reality of this end of the world. It remains therefore to discover it, to survey it and to impregnate itself of all these beautiful images.
La Ruta de los parques
In Patagonia, it must be said, it is in Chile that mountaineers test their skills and endurance the most. Modern explorers in search of a challenge will be satisfied, map in hand, by this itinerary of all possibilities located in Chile: the Ruta de los Parques is this route of more than 115,000 km² that crosses 90% of protected areas. Delivered to the wild instincts of an untamed nature, courageous hikers can, since December 2018, launch themselves on the 2,800 kilometers that separate Puerto Montt from Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn). From the Alerce Andino National Park, east of Puerto Montt, to Torres del Paine through the Corcovado, Laguna San Rafael, Melimoyu or Bernardo O'Higgins parks, there are quite a few national parks created by the Tompkins Conservation Foundation. And this is far from being a coincidence! Since the 1990s, Douglas Tompkins, now deceased, and his wife Kristine have worked together for the preservation of Chilean Patagonia. After years of effort and perseverance, they inaugurated the Ruta de los Parques in September 2018.
Leave in the right conditions
Going on a trekking trip is not improvised, especially when it is a matter of going over several days. First of all, beware of unpredictable weather and always bring adequate equipment: waterproof walking shoes, pairs of socks, inner clothes, synthetic (no cotton or jeans), windbreaker, hat, sunglasses (very thin ozone layer in the region), sleeping bag, waterproof tent, walking stick, food (some supply stations in the park are quite expensive), gas cooker, headlamp, first-aid kit (sunscreen, aspirin, anti-inflammatory, bandages, disinfectant, headbands, thermometer, scissors, Swiss Army knife...). The most important preparation and anticipation is undoubtedly the planning of the O and W circuit in the Torres Del Paine Park! Since 15 October 2016, it is compulsory to have advance bookings for all campsites: it is strongly advised not to venture out on these circuits without having booked your accommodation in advance. Finally, beyond the weather, you should also think about the altitude: in the Andes, the summits are often higher than Mont Blanc. It is therefore recommended to observe the acclimatization time at altitude. Don't force it, take all the usual precautions and don't hesitate to turn back if you are out of breath. Concerning equipment, Chilean Patagonia has very good agencies and shops, especially in Pucón, Malalcahuello, Puerto Natales and Puerto Varas. If you choose to trust a tour operator, check the equipment available and the knowledge of the guide. To better orient yourself, get the maps of the IGM (Military Geographic Institute), based on a scale of 1:25,000. It is also recommended that you follow the mandatory itinerary indicated at the park entrance and carry a GPS or compass. Finally, of course, the deeper you go, the greater the risks and the less present and reactive the rescue services. High mountain rescuers, whose dedication is often exemplary, are not equipped like their French colleagues. Mule rescue is more frequent than helicopter rescue.
