42 km from Leh. The ruins of Ladakh's15th-century capital cut a spectacular figure on the horizon. The citadel failed to withstand three consecutive years of siege by Mongol and Tibetan invaders in 1680. The fort is well worth a visit, particularly for its three temples dedicated to Maitreya Buddha, the most interesting of which is the Chamba Lhakang with its intact murals. The monasteries have begun to be restored by villagers, particularly the smallest of the three, the Chamchung, which was in danger of collapsing. Take a break on the road as you pass the fort - the panorama is well worth the effort!

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