8,000 inhabitants. This Victorian seaside resort is more upscale than its neighbour Portrush. Time seems to have stopped there and the facades of the houses are eaten away by salt and wind, along the promenade from the port to the beach. All the local entertainment is concentrated behind the murky and well-aligned windows of the merchants who are installed facing the sea and beaten by sea spray. Many writers have been sensitive to its rustic but cosy charm, such as the short story writer Charles Level, who lived there, and the English writer William Thackery, who stayed there...

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