Set back from the valley, Saint-Étienne sits on a small hill. Here, olive trees grow alongside mulberry trees, and vines alongside chestnut trees. The town, which had more inhabitants than Florac before the Edict of Nantes, now has just 500. Saint-Étienne is also the other Rome of the Cévennes, as Stevenson first called Saint-Germain, where the Abbé du Chayla set up a seminary. A nucleus of Catholics has always survived around the Baroness de Molembaix's château. The château stands at the top of the village, with its square tower, corner turret and conical roof. It was altered in the 19th century, then burnt down by the Germans in 1944.

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