Tourist Attractions & Monuments Oman

This Wadi has the advantage of offering natural water pools about km from its entrance, adding a little more to discovery. It will be surprised by the milky colour of the water due to suspended calcite. When the track becomes too narrow for a car, continue along the bed of the river to the village of Abyada, only minutes walk away.

Honored for having created the Koranic school of Mirbat, Bin Ali Al Alawi, descendant of a son-in-law of the Prophet, rests under a pair of limed cones since 1161. Next door, the large cemetery has kept beautiful marble plaques, reserved for wealthy families. Other tombs are more modest. They are topped by three stones, indicating the burial of a woman, two stones for a man, and one stone for a child. The deceased is buried with his head facing Mecca.

Like most of the wadis in this part of the Sultanate, the Wadi Wadi wadi opens on steep walls and a narrow canyon, in 4 x 4. It will delight geology lovers by its multitude of marine fossils. At 2 km from the entrance you can observe drawings carved in the rock, representing animals and warriors. These paintings are believed to be over 1 500 years of age. The last village in 4 x 4, Al-Ulya, is a paradise: palm groves, clear water basins, falajs… A preserved and still authentic place to the very welcoming population.

It is probably the longest Wadi in the region. Beware, the track is not very broad. Seventeen kilometres after Gubrah, it joins the village of Wakan, starting point of a hike that leads to the edge of the Gubrah Bowl circus to the village of Haddash (7 h walk). Beware, this is not a loop and therefore requires a transfer upon arrival.

The story, as recorded in the Qur'an, tells that the Prophet and Messenger Sauliah, at the request of Allah himself, endeavoured to teach faith in one God to the Thamudites, polytheistic troglodytes: "O my people! Worship God! There is no God but he. A proof has come to you: God's camel, as a sign for you. Let her graze the land of God, do not touch her with any evil. Otherwise, a painful punishment will seize you. The Prophet declared that this camel would need water and he established a rule: the people would now have access to water only every other day, the other day being reserved for the animal. After a few weeks, disgruntled people were heard: "They killed the camel, disobeyed the command of their Lord and said, 'O Saleh, bring us what you threaten us with, if you are one of the Messengers. When Sunday morning came, they perfumed themselves and sat down, waiting for the punishment that was to come. After the sunrise, a mighty breath came from the sky and a cry went out from below them. All the souls died and all movement stopped. According to tradition, the rock here, which is protected and visually accessible to visitors, would bear the traces of the camel's footsteps and the blood of her wounds; the other footprints would be those of the prophet and his cane. Do not expect anything spectacular; objectively speaking, the site is quite strange, but the believers seem attached to it. Provide a telephoto lens to capture the details!

At the eastern end of the Sultanate, Cape Town Fort is a balcony to the world. In the 11th and 12th centuries, we were there in one of the most important maritime and commercial squares of the coast as Sohar was slipping into decadence and Qalhat had not yet taken over. Built in the 16th century and restored in 1989, the citadel has three imposing towers, including the western one named after Sindbad, the legendary sailor. The interior of the fort is empty, but from the main tower, the view of the city, the sea and the lagoons is very beautiful.

The fort was built inland, probably in the very early nineteenth century under Sayyid Said Bin Sultan, to provide protection against attacks from inland tribes. It consists of a vast inner courtyard, flanked by four massive towers, one of which is topped by an unusually slender tower, slender as a chimney. A whole small neighbourhood has been built up in the vicinity, which adds to the interest of the visit, if you find the door open. The complex housed the wali's administration until 1976.

Built in the early 17th century by Saif bin Sultan Al Ya'rubi, a powerful ruler whose influence extended to Persia, India and East Africa, this fort was the main defence of the western coastal region. Refurbished in 1990, it has four towers, three of which are rectangular, and a round main tower that is slightly different from those of the other citadels in that it is less wide at the top than at the bottom. This architectural specificity was supposed to ensure a better resistance to cannon balls.

Oman's highest fort is surrounded by ramparts that once included no less than twelve towers. Built on the rock, its walls seem to be an integral part of the rock. It is an imposing building that has been carefully restored. It is surrounded by abundant nature and offers a beautiful view of the surrounding area, especially of the mountain foothills. It is said that it was once connected to the citadel of Al Hazm, some twenty kilometres away, by a tunnel. Entrance is possible through four different gates: Al-Ya'arubi, Al-Wasut, Al-Sharjah and the main gate. The structure is adjacent to a falaj that is over 130 years old. The first buildings of the complex were constructed in 1250 from Persian ruins. The fort was later enlarged over the years, and in 1650 it was remodelled by Nasir bin Murshid. It is a construction of impressive dimensions, where it is easy to get lost in the maze of rooms, doors, staircases and underground passages (many and dark). When you are lucky or unlucky to be there alone, you almost get scared in the string of such naked rooms! On the top floor is the tomb of the members of the family of the late Sultan Qaboos of the Al-Bu Said dynasty. Unlike the other forts, this one has no real interior design, and that's a pity: no explanatory panel, no furniture, no antique objects or accessories. But what a mass behind this jagged enclosure of more than 200 battlements!

Built in the 19th century to defend the city of Qurayyat and guarded by two old Portuguese made cannons, the fort stands next to the souk, along the main road that runs through the city. Recently restored, it is typical of the defensive structures along the coast of Oman, with high crenellated walls and a round watchtower. Kitchen, living rooms, objects, everything is in its place, and allows us to imagine the life of the inhabitants of the past. Notice the beauty of the front door or the containers coming from China, and the "made in Zanzibar" chest.

An important trading city on the route to India and the former capital of Oman, Sohar was an important port from antiquity until the 16th century. Today only its fort/museum bears witness to its past splendor. The citadel has the originality of being white, like all the big buildings of the city, but unlike all the Omani forts, of ochre color. It was probably built between the 13th and 14th centuries by Prince Baha al-Din Ayaz of Hormuz. The princes of Hormuz were no strangers to this region. The first to come to the sultanate was Mahamad Dram Ku, a direct descendant of the kings of Sabah, from the province of Arabia. During the excavations carried out in the fort, many valuable ceramic and porcelain objects were discovered, testifying to the fortune of its inhabitants. Restored, the defensive building now houses an interesting museum that traces the history of the region and the city of Sohar through writings and the display of ancient objects. The rooms to be visited occupy three floors, but it is also advisable to climb higher, to the roof of one of the towers from where one can overlook the sea and the palm grove that stretches as far as the eye can see. The chronicle tells that the garrison of 1,000 men who held the place surrendered without firing a single cannonball to the Portuguese invader Afonso de Albuquerque. On the spot, one can also admire the mausoleum of an emblematic character of Omani history, Sayyid Thuwaini bin Said Al Said, Sultan of Oman from 1856 to 1866.

It is the local "croisette" where you can stroll in the mild hours if you sleep on the spot. The place runs along the beach and comes alive especially at the end of the day, when the football players take the sand by storm and the fishermen come to sell their catches. The cornice is then enlivened by a beautiful effervescence, very local and essentially masculine. At high tide, as you approach the port, you can watch the ballet of fishing boats and dhows coming in and out. Little advice to these ladies: as always, wear covering clothes.

To add a touch of green, pleasant during the winter season, here's the beautiful Salalah Park just a few steps from the business district, the city's chic area with beautiful residential homes. The park forms a beautiful shaded area, very frequented by the locals. It is open only during the day and some time slots are reserved for women.

Something very special has been woven over the years between Oman and France, a history where strategic thinking and commercial interests are intertwined. This "house of France", which was the heart and theater of this diplomatic and human chronicle, was originally the residence of a niece of Sultan Said, Ghaliah bint Salim. In 1896, Sultan Faysal proposed to France to install his first consul, Paul Ottavi, Corsica, the first of a series of thirteen, until 1920. As early as the 17th century, during sugar expeditions in the Indian Ocean, French ships anchored in the roadstead, the last point of call after Gorée, Good Hope, Sofala, Reunion Island and Zanzibar. At the beginning of the 19th century, relations took shape and in 1894 the decision was taken to send a southern off-roader previously stationed in Mogador (now Essaouira, Morocco), the famous Ottavi. Enter his office, reconstituted thanks to diplomatic archives and documents lent by the agents' descendants, discover the galleries of ships, costumes, maps and treaties, observe the astonishing parallels between French and Omani traditions, especially with Lorient and Marseille. In those days, the ladies of the region were not wearing raven veils, daring bright colours and patterns unthinkable nowadays; we will go, one day or another, to visit the Souleiado Museum in Tarascon to realize the aesthetic cousinage of the Indian women, these Provençal fabrics under oriental influence. Two treaties sealed the Franco-Omani friendship, the first in 1807 and the second, much more detailed and extensive, in 1844. Two years later, Omani captains with establishments in French colonies or territories were granted the privilege of sailing under the tricolour flag. In 1989, Sultan Qaboos, on a state visit to Paris, announced to President Mitterrand that he was making the former consulate available as a museum dedicated to bilateral relations. A unique establishment, without equivalent in other friendly countries, which was inaugurated by the two Heads of State on 29 January 1992. As a reminder that in heroic times the far-off lands were a priesthood, don't miss the French administrative documents in the consular office that detail the stays of the various representatives, and sometimes their sad fate: a first was repatriated because he "went mad"; a second was "murdered by heat stroke"; a third died "as a result of furunculosis".

This reserve concerns a set of lagoons located on the shores of Dhofar, in the vicinity of Salalah. Water plans can spread to one hundred hectares, and are an important natural resource for the region. Their vegetation and the freshness of their water promote the livelihood of certain fish and attract a large population of volatility. No fewer than 200 varieties, some of them migratory, were reported.

Given the development of Salalah and the abusive manner in which the premises used these resources, the lagoons were declared Natural Reserve and benefit from regulations favourable to the protection of their environment.

Fakkan Mughsayl, located at the far east of Jebel Qamar. Separated from the sea by a sand bench, reserve of 0,6 km ².

Fakkan Dahariz, located at the extreme East of Salalah. The lagoon is surrounded by reeds and should be fitted with picnic areas. 80 varieties of birds were found there.

Fakkan Balid, near the town centre of Salalah. Here is the archaeological site of Al-Balid, discovered in 1952 and opened to the public since 2001 (see «Salalah»).

Fakkan Qurm as Sagheer and Fakkan Qurm al-Kabeer, between Salalah and Raysut.

Fakkan Awqad, in Salalah, a 0,16 km ² greenbelt, a bird sanctuary.

Fakkan Sawli, 30 km east of Salalah towards Taqah. This lagoon will focus on biologists for the abundance and originality of its ecosystem: 26 species of fish, 66 species of birds, 70 species of plants. Access to the public is limited and the site serves as a study centre.

Fakkan Taqah, next to the city of the same name.

Fakkan Rawri. It is the largest lagoon in the region, with an area of 8,20 km ². It was here that the ruins of the Citadel of Sumhuram were discovered. And it is from this place that the trade in incense was made (see "Dhofar"). To visit the site, permission from the Ministry of Heritage and culture is required.

It is undoubtedly the most charming seaside of the historic districts, like a pier fitted out with flowered areas where families come in the evening to picnic and stroll. Ideally located between the Mutrah Corniche and the old Muscat, the place is indeed very pleasant in the evening, in the cool, and many Omani families come here to let off steam their children after going to the souk. Possibility to refresh oneself or to buy an ice cream at the small kiosk at the entrance in a soft and majestic setting. An immersive and typical excursion!

The trailhead is located in the village of Dar Al Bayda, at an altitude of around 1,500 metres. From the village of Misfat Al Abriyeen, take the track and drive about 25 km towards Dar Al Baydah, the journey taking about 35 minutes. At the entrance to the village, take the small path to the left, with the trailhead at the end.
The route is well signposted with the famous tricolour markings that are ubiquitous in the Sultanate. The start is relatively steep. Then the slope becomes less steep, but the path is sometimes dangerous and has some tricky sections. This is followed by a tricky descent to the left. The path crosses the UTMB race route. From this point onwards, there are no longer any tricolour markings and you have to follow the green UTMB points. The path is again quite steep and you come to a cliff, which you have to climb using the metal steps installed by UTMB. The trek at this level is perilous and you need to be very careful. We go all the way around the large cliff before exposing ourselves again to a very steep climb. Keep following the green dots until you reach the foot of the cliff at the top of which lies the highest point of Jabal Shams. Follow the path marked out at the foot of the cliff for about 1 km, then take the metal steps on the left of the path.
To reach the highest point, where there is an orientation table, make a round trip up to the left. The trail then becomes the W4.

Housed in a superbly restored ^17th-century fortified house, this museum is a journey back in time, taking us into the daily lives of the Omanis of yesteryear. From one room to the next, the countless objects on display tell us about the lifestyles of adults and children alike, through an eclectic collection ranging from traditional weapons, tools, jewelry, kitchen utensils, etc. (which can also be seen in certain forts) to more "familiar" objects such as old toys, bicycles, old school bags and candy wrappers!

It's not always easy to get around in the narrow, sometimes rubble-strewn streets of ancient towns. The palm groves can also be vast and the heat stifling in the middle of the day. For all these reasons, the main tourist villages in the Hajar are gradually being equipped with pleasant vintage-style electric carts (in the style of large golf carts) which, under the guidance of a driver-guide, allow you to discover rural life in Oman, farms, plantations, the ancestral irrigation system, etc., without getting tired.

The iconic Al Bustan Palace (now the Ritz-Carlton) is much more than a luxury hotel. Nicknamed "The Jewel of the Sultanate", this nine-storey edifice certainly lives up to its name.

Following the accession to the throne of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said as ruler of the Sultanate of Oman in 1970, the country experienced significant progress in various sectors, including education, health, infrastructure and so on. During this period of "renaissance", the Sultanate of Oman became a leading and active partner in Gulf and Arab affairs, as well as in the international community. It soon became necessary to provide the country with sufficiently prestigious facilities and establishments to welcome visiting heads of state and their delegations, as well as international conferences and other high-level gatherings, in particular those of the Arab League, the Islamic Conference and, most important of all, the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC). His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said's dream came true: he decided that Al Bustan Palace would be built to host the 1985 Gulf Cooperation Council summit. From the outset, it was planned that when not in use for state meetings, the building would function as a luxury hotel. After much deliberation, the Ministerial Committee was convinced to build the Palace on the eastern side of the city, by the sea. As the original village of Al Bustan stretched 6 km along the center of the beach, it was decided that the hotel would be built a little to the rear, in the heart of the area occupied by plantations. This posed a major problem, however: a 35-metre-high mountain had to be levelled before construction could begin! Site preparation was completed on August 16, 1983, and the foundation stone was laid.

During construction, the famous dome and its cladding, manufactured by 3 different companies in 3 different locations, were assembled over a weekend in a schoolyard in Liverpool, England, to ensure that everything fitted perfectly before shipment to Oman. Emblematically, the building's octagonal shape is mainly inspired by Islamic architecture. A total of 97 types of stone and 800 tonnes of the finest marble from Syria, Iran, Italy and India were used for the hotel's framework and flooring. The seven corners of the immense lobby each represent a GCC country and are adorned with arabesques, wood carvings, mother-of-pearl and gold leaf. The incredible central lamp hanging from the 38-metre-high dome, a reminder of the mountain that once stood on the same spot, is made up of some 3,000 bulbs and nine dazzling crystal chandeliers. Another not-to-be-missed piece is the sumptuous 3.5-metre-high fountain, also in crystal. Made exclusively for Al Bustan Palace, it represents a fabulous treasure chest.

In the afternoon, under the large sparkling dome, you can treat yourself to an exceptional high tea , magnificently served in ceramic crockery specifically designed for the palace. Everything is done to give visitors a deep sense of belonging and disconnection, while wisps of incense perfume the Atrium, creating a suspended moment in the Oman of yesteryear.

Spectacular and scenic, built lengthwise between sea and mountains, Muscat is a capital that deserves to be discovered from the air, if only to better understand and admire its astonishing topography: the arid brown reliefs between which the white quarters nestle on the shores of the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Oman. From above, you can contemplate the jagged fjords of the south, the village within the city that is Old Muscat, and the avenues further north lined with lungs of greenery and magisterial monuments - the Opera House, the Great Mosque.

This wild lagoon is part of a group of seven others, all located in Dhofar, protected and classified as reserves. The one of ad Dahariz has the particularity to cut the long coastal road which traces on about thirty kilometers between Salalah and Taqah. Far from the hustle and bustle of the city, it materializes in a way the eastern border of the metropolis. The density of its vegetation provides a providential habitat for hundreds of birds, including many migratory species that can be observed from shelters designed for ornithology

Like those of Bat, the tombs of Zukait bear witness to the expansion of an ancient civilization present on Omani territory as early as 3000 BC. Overlooking the village, the site has several cylindrical towers of tightly packed stones without mortar, each pierced by an entrance and topped by a roof composed of flat stones (beehive tombs). The archaeological missions carried out in the immediate vicinity testify to the ancient existence of a vast Hafit-style necropolis, composed of hundreds of burials similar to those of Zukait.

It is a very nice walk, easy, although you have to go down and up, and of real diversity in the heart of a landscape of mountains with rough and arid walls and gorges that make you dizzy, but which the human presence has tamed and made much softer. On the rocky hillsides, picturesque villages, typical alleys, miniature mosques, orchards, gardens, trees that crumble under the fruit, bushes that smell of flowers... and, omnipresent, the aflaj: a guarantee of freshness and zenitude, the soft crystalline sound of rustling water. We start from the first village (Al Aqur) and walk to the fourth (Sayq) following the markings, three coloured stripes - circuit W18b. It is also possible to start from any of the 4 hamlets to shorten the walk, as all of them are accessible by an asphalt road. The signposting starts to the left of the Al Aqur car park at the level of a lane that you follow to the end (signs on the posts). You then follow the falaj down to the terraced fields. Beautiful panoramas open out over the surrounding mountains, sometimes hidden by the greenery, until you reach the second village of Al Ayn, where signs are a little too rare for a while. In order not to lose your way, turn left in the hamlet and cross a semblance of a gallery. Walk up to a small mosque with a blue dome, pass to the right of it and go down into the wadi. On the left is a small pool of green water: ideal for a cool break. A few meters before, on the other side of the river bed, big stone steps go up to the third village (Ash Shirayjah), again well signposted. Then you have to follow the road for about 600 meters, before you find yourself back on a path to Sayq. Count about 3 hours round trip (8 km in total), but do not hesitate to make some diversions to go deeper into the streets of the hamlets to capture some scenes of life ... Also go down along the terraced fields to the edge of the canyon for the panorama; or excavate the pebbles to unearth marine fossils, very numerous in the area and over 270 million years old. A word of advice for the ladies: do not go to the mosque and walk with your shoulders and knees covered, out of respect for the local, rural and traditional populations. Tank tops and shorts should be avoided, even in the hot season.

Perched on its rocky spur, this panoramic look-out built in 1507 offers wide views of the Bay of Mutrah and the coastal districts on one side, the mountains and the inland districts on the other - a strategic position to spot invaders arriving by sea as well as by land. Unlike the other forts in the country, this one is not subject to any development, but consists of a succession of ramparts, watchtowers and external platforms that are valiantly reached by a flight of steps. Every good selfie has to be earned!

Sohar's fish market is one of the largest in the country and is quite large. It is held on the waterfront in a large modern white building with characteristic dhow-like architecture. Inside, in good order, are the tiled stalls covered with the many fish that the Gulf of Oman sacrifices every day to the nets of local fishermen. Even if one has nothing to buy, the place is worth seeing for its scenes of life and trade, especially as the place is much less touristy than the Fish Market of Mutrah.

Abdullah Al Abri, a native of Misfah, is proud to have created this small museum to showcase his childhood home and to help visitors understand the life of the past through an exhibition of old objects that belonged to his family: kitchen utensils, clothes, tools, jars and baskets, etc. The guided visit allows to discover the organization of a typical habitat and ends on the roof with a coffee and dates. An interesting and touching place of memory.

Located at the eastern end of the corniche, below Mutrah Fort, this establishment is a grouping of several low, white houses that aims to represent a typical Omani house from the 50s and 70s and to tell the story of the cultural heritage, customs, and the weight of traditions. One walks through a succession of rooms furnished with furniture and everyday objects that evoke the life of the Omani people some fifty years ago. We appreciate the immersive aspect of the place, the admirable collection of clothes and the art gallery at the exit.

Honey has always been harvested in the Sultanate and is part of the Omani diet. Date palm honey is the most common and can be recognized by its light golden colour. But there is also honey made from flowers, acacia or jujube tree among others, the most popular being the one harvested in the Hajar mountains. You can learn a lot in this small museum, held with heart by Ahmed, the beekeeper of Misfah. Possibility to taste and see the beehives. Shop.

At high tide when the sea is formed, therefore mainly in winter during the Khareef, water seeps into cavities and is projected into the air under the effect of pressure, forming jets that some locals promise to 30 m high! The site is equipped with fences to protect the most dangerous of these holes. In hot and sunny season, the natural phenomenon is not really visible except on rare days of storm. Not enough to make it a must-see anyway. Take the opportunity to admire the plunging view on the coast and the immense beach.

Sculpted by wind and water over millions of years, this curious ensemble of limestone and sandstone rocks with astonishing shapes covers an area of about 3 km² and has been identified as one of the 25 most important sites in the Sultanate in terms of geology. A tourist development project is under way and a car park has been set up. It is a creative fantasy as only nature can produce with rocks in the shape of horses, mushrooms, etc. Don't make the trip on purpose, pass through if you are in the area.

There are several hiking trails in Jebel Shams. But one of the easiest and most beautiful is the one leading to the abandoned village of Sap Bani Khamis (or As Sab). To reach the start of the walk, follow the main track to the village of Al Khitaym: a former hamlet transformed into accommodation for travellers, where goats outnumber men. From here, head for the edge of the ravine to spot the markings: one trail, W6a, heads off to the right towards Wadi Ghul, in the valley, a several-hour walk with a 1,150-meter vertical drop - from 1,900 to 750 meters above sea level. The other path, the W6, marked like the previous one by three yellow/white/red stripes, leads off to the left and skirts the grand canyon for four kilometers: an incredible old mule track, as if suspended above the void, and yet wide enough not to be vertiginous! To the left are the sheer cliff faces, which make you wonder, whenever a panoramic view allows, how and where they can accommodate a trail. To the right, a deep gash reveals the valley floor and a few villages.

There are few, if any, trees to shade the path. Unless you set off early, you'll have to accept that you'll have to hike in the middle of the heat, amidst the rocks. However, this disadvantage is offset by the gentle gradient and good signposting. After an hour and 15 minutes' walk through an XXL landscape, we reach the abandoned hamlet of Sap Bani Khamis: an impressive group of houses clinging to a rocky overhang just a few metres from the void. These are quite well preserved and were probably abandoned only some forty years ago, in favor of slightly less hostile terrain on the plateau. They were built around 400 years ago, using only locally sourced materials: olive and acacia wood, dry stone. The choice of location, almost unthinkable for us Westerners, was justified by isolation (the best protection against enemies) and the proximity of a water source located on the upper plateau and accessible fairly quickly on foot via a steep fault. Fifteen families lived there, mainly raising livestock (goats, sheep, donkeys) and farming (watermelons, onions, chili, tomatoes, wheat...), as evidenced by the presence of terraced farming areas.

The dam on the still-watering Dayqah wadi is the largest in the sultanate, forming Oman's largest artificial lake, with a superb color ranging from blue to emerald. It was built to supply the cities of Muscat and Quriyat and stores 100 million^m3 of water. Well-known to Omanis, who like to spend days or weekends here with their families, the area, encircled by brown mountains, is well equipped for leisure activities (camping, activity center, etc.). To appreciate the beauty of the site, walk to the top of the dam wall.

Unlike the remains of the ancient port cities of Al Balid (5 kilometers from downtown Salalah) and Sumhuran (about 30 kilometers away), both of which are quickly accessible by car, the site of Shisr, found about 180 kilometers north in the sands of the Rub al-Khali, is a semi-expedition in its own right that requires a 4x4, a good GPS.. and, if possible, a certain amount of imagination, or a sufficiently developed fantasy to virtually recompose, from a handful of remains, what the city could have been.

In the heart of the great emptiness, along the roads and tracks, the access road is, in itself, a powerful experience. We know that there is nothing visible or almost on the ground, but we know that there is something underneath: more than 2 000 years of history, discovered almost by chance at the beginning of the Nineties while the British explorer Ranulph Fiennes excavates the ruins of a fortification of the XVIth century. Photos taken in 1983 by the Columbia spacecraft clearly showed several traces of destroyed cities all along the incense route. Researchers then used data from satellites equipped with ground-penetrating radar and NASA's Landsat, as well as the Spot satellite, to identify the ancient camel routes and their points of convergence. Approaching the goal without convincing everyone, documentary filmmaker Nicholas Clapp made the front page of the Times and published The Road to Ubar: Finding the Atlantis of the Sands. It is this same Nicholas Clapp who, during the excavations, put forward the idea that the destruction and thus the end of the city would have been caused by the repeated work of the underground water table which would have ended up generating the collapse of the limestone cavities on which the fortress had been built.

The archaeological remains are in fact located near a large dome of collapsed limestone, sheltering a cave where a perpetual spring flows. According to the Omani Antiquities Department, the site covers a total area of 0.36 hectares. A wall 90 cm thick, in the shape of an irregular pentagon, encircles a central complex on a rocky outcrop. It is reinforced at regular intervals by short buttresses of similar dimensions. The remains of two towers at the northeast and southwest corners, which are part of the original construction, can also be seen, as well as two horseshoe-shaped towers that were incorporated later. The wall has partly disappeared due to the collapse of the underlying limestone. Wall stumps indicate that the enclosure was divided into two parts, the smaller of which was located in the northwest corner. It was dominated by a large building, oriented towards the points of the compass, according to what may be a tradition in southern Arabia. This building underwent several alterations and modifications in the Middle Ages, which would suggest that the site was occupied until the 14th century. The larger enclosure has not been archaeologically studied, but traces of several structures are discernible.

Archaeologists associate these remains with the ancient city of Ubar, which refers to the city mentioned in the Qur'an as Iram, although its exact identity is unknown. It is also mentioned in two stories from the Arabian Nights which describe it as a place of great splendor, adorned with precious materials and surrounded by lush gardens... According to the legend, God decided to punish the inhabitants of Ubar, whose wealth had become such that it encouraged them to a depraved lifestyle, and made the city disappear under the sand. At the time of its splendor, in the heart of the incense trade, all the caravan routes converged there. Unearthed from the sand, the fortress reveals little by little its mysteries. It seems to have been built around 150 BC. Numerous objects were found near the site: tools, pottery, ceramics, an incense burner, some jewels, a thousand-year-old soapstone chess set, etc. So many secrets still... The diversity of their origins attests to the commercial vocation of the region and its relations with outside peoples: Sumerians, Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. The study of these vestiges seems to show however that the site was known well before the construction of the city and probably occupied more than 5000 BC. This theory deserves respect when we know that the inhabitants of Dhofar started to exploit incense more than 8,000 years ago. The trade of this precious gum, transported from Oman to Sumer, Bahrain and Iraq by boat, played a very important role in the relations between the regions of the Arab world and the civilizations of Asia and Africa.

Since 1995, the site of Ubar is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The entrance is free and the visit can be completed by the visit of the museum, where the objects discovered near the fortress are exposed. For more information and excitement, read Fiennes' gripping account, Atlantis of the Sands: The Search for the Lost City of Ubar.

The question of whether the site is worth the trip from Salalah does not arise, as this place is the product of its own legend, a concentrate of dreams of lost cities and the object of desire of every explorer.

Wadi Darbat is an immense green plateau located behind Taqah. It boasts Oman's largest permanent natural lake. This wadi winds its way through hills and high plateaus to flow into the Arabian Sea at Khawr Ruri. The water flows down from the mountains to the plains, forming splendid waterfalls that can reach several dozen metres in height. The Darbat, as everyone will tell you, is a classic for weekend outings in Dhofar, with its cool box and camping chairs. It's Dhofar's nugget! This wadi can be visited all year round, but is at its most beautiful between late June and early October, during the summer monsoon season. It's easy to see why this Helvetian-Omani landscape is so attractive to desert dwellers. Between December and April, the effect is less chlorophyllous, but during the dry season, the waters form interesting caverns to visit. The area is also very popular with the Jibbali (inhabitants of the nearby mountains), who come to take their herds of dromedaries out to feed. So be careful if you're driving! There are several observation points throughout the wadi. Boat and pedal-boat tours are also available. However, we strongly advise against swimming in the pools of Wadi Darbat, even if the temptation is great, as bilharzia-carrying worms have been discovered in the water.

Emblematic of the cultural landscape of Dhofar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Wadi Dawkah is the perfect illustration of the incense biosphere: a wadi draining northwards at the edge of the desert with incense trees scattered over a flat area of about 5 km². The higher areas of the park are largely populated by acacia and similar species, capable of withstanding the most extreme conditions. The Boswellia sacra is here in its limestone kingdom, a small deciduous tree of 2 to 8 meters in height, whose paper-like bark peels easily. Only the male tree produces the precious resin, but it takes a good ten years for it to provide a product of the best possible quality. The bark is incised by removing a long, narrow strip, then the area is scraped clean, and the gum-resin concretions are collected by dropping them into a container. The resin secretions, hardened by contact with air, are collected two to three weeks later; these solidified drops can be more than 2 cm long. A mature tree generally produces 3 to 4 kg of incense per season. On site, a shelter with benches allows to observe the landscape while remaining in the shade.

Other associated sites classified by Unesco under the title "Land of incense": the port of Khor Rori (40 km east of Salalah), that of Al Baleed (on the seafront in Salalah) and the city-oasis of Ubar/Shisr at 170 km from the city in the Rub Al Khali desert.

Latif Al Bulushi, three words in French, Omani cap screwed on his head, gives us a wide welcoming smile. This museum, he wanted it and financed it with his savings, and this since 1999, probably so that he wouldn't have to spend his old age watching TV. Can an autodidact play the curator? By opening the doors of its collections, our host provides immediate proof of this, taking us on an absolutely striking visit, here Umayyad and Zanzibar coins struck with cloves, there original letters from a former sultan to the president of the United States or a map by Rigobert Bonne, Louis XVI's cartographer at the Navy's hydrographic service. And this chess set, a Chinese marvel in ivory offered to the White House in 1833. We stop again in front of the official agreement granting navigation under the French flag to the dhows of Sur and, stunned, in front of the stunningly beautiful photographic portrait behind her mask, a Madonna with a piercing gaze. Assembled over more than twenty years, these personal treasures now populate vast rooms on the ground floor of Latif's personal residence, named Adam after his son. Our suggestion: visit Bait Al Baranda, the Museum of Omani History in Mutrah, and then treat yourself to Bait Adam for exchange, encounters and unique pieces. Don't hesitate to make a detour to the shop: it offers typical Omani objects to bring back as souvenirs, at rather interesting prices.

Among the rare objects on display here are the remains of a fossilized tree discovered in the Al Huquf region and dated at more than 260 million years ago, and the teeth of a homotherium and a dinotherium respectively 15 and 35 million years old. The skeleton of the large sperm whale found in 1986 in Barka dominates you from its height and its 14 meters long. Otherwise, you can wander from shells to corals, from insects to animals. Dusty but instructive museum.

Well restored, the building has a defence tower more than 450 years old offering a beautiful panorama of the surroundings. The construction was done in several stages, which explains why the main door, carved from a single piece of wood, is only 350 years old. The various rooms, including the Arabic lounge, are decorated with carpets and oil lamps. The courtroom houses jewellery and old rifles. Among the successive imams, Ahmed bin Sad was the one who dared to plan a polygonal tower. With humor, we speak of cubist inspiration!

This imposing castle-like house was built in the 17th century by Imam Bil Arab bin Sultan and his brother Imam Saif bin Sultan. It was a kind of caravanserai, a place of passage and meeting for armies and travellers between Rustaq and Muscat. Restored in 1992, the house unfolds a succession of ornate rooms, much more than the average citadel, with antique furniture and accessories that give an idea of the way of life of the Omanis in the old days and their defence system. Interesting visit.

4 kilometers before arriving in Yiti, take the road on the right. Follow the direction of Khawr Yenkit, Al-Sheikh. When you reach As Sifah, turn left and drive through the village until you reach the end of the tarmac road. There is a sandy road, the mountains on the left, and a white sandy beach on the right, with no one around except a few donkeys. It is an ideal place to come camping far from everything and yet not so much... The road along the cliffs, creeks and turquoise waters, mangroves and oases, is superb.

Jiddat al Harasis is the ecosystem and section of the Sultanate that in 1962 was chosen to reintroduce the Arabian white oryx. Covering about 27,000 km², the equivalent of Brittany, it is a plateau 100 to 150 metres high, bounded to the east by an escarpment. The adjoining Huquf depression is separated from the sea coast by the 300-metre-high Janaba Hills. The soil is mainly karstic limestone. It is an important region in the context of Arabia, as it combines a coastal area with cold waters with - unusually - a desert landscape of acacia trees that cuts south into the dunes of the Central Arabian Sea of Sand. All this is in close proximity and functions as a diverse and productive ecosystem.

In 1962, the World Wildlife Fund, the International Union for the Conservation of Nature and the Society for the Protection of Animals joined forces to prevent the extinction of the Arabian white oryx. An Indiana Jones Horn Mission was dispatched to Yemen to capture the last remaining free-ranging animals. Two females and a male are caught, soon joined by six other animals donated by the sheikhs of the Gulf, and entrusted to the good care of the veterinarians of the Phoenix Zoo in this Arizona with its adapted climate. In 1980, back on their feet and in a copulatory trance, the oryx were transported by the Omani air force to Jiddah Al Harasis, where the last of their free-ranging congeners had been hunted in 1972. The sultan sanctuaries the huge area, creates a wildlife control and management centre, has electronic collars placed on the oryx and is proud to see the site become a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. This recognition does not last, however. In 2007, UNESCO, a rare event in its history, decided to remove the oryx sanctuary from its list. The reason was the drastic shrinking of the protected area, reduced by 90% for a hydrocarbon exploration project, and the poor overall maintenance of the reserve. Victims of poaching and habitat degradation, the oryx population has fallen from 450 individuals to 65, including only four breeding pairs.

At present, even though the Sultanian reserve occupies an extremely small territory compared to its initial size (2,824 km² of varied terrain - sandy plains, rocky slopes, dunes, etc.), its habitat is much less degraded than it was at one time. Its shrinking, wanted by the authorities and carried out without informing the UN authorities, has, beyond Unesco, triggered a rather lively polemic between friends of nature and the Omani State. No local publication will tell you more. Some visitors are still surprised, in the forums, to find no more details on the famous "Reserve protected by Unesco", to find even less information on how to access it. Many get lost along the way, in this immense desert, or miss the last bend to the right and end up falling on, yes! oil wells. The situation is changing since the State decided, in December 2017, as part of a planned and increased development of ecotourism, to open the site to the public. Long off the tourist routes, the reserve could therefore become, in the coming years, one of the major attractions in this part of the country where few vehicles still venture out. In addition, the sanctuary is not only home to oryx, but also, if one is lucky, to observe other native species such as the endangered Arabian gazelle, Rüppell's fox, Ethiopian hedgehog, gerbil, desert lizard, sand viper, as well as numerous birds - yellow-throated warbler, desert sirli, isabelle courting bird, white-fronted monk, etc. - which can be seen in the sanctuary.

Pending further development, the question is: do you have to travel 500 kilometres to see this? Until recently, access was only permitted to those holding a permit issued by the diwan's nature protection adviser. This paper was the signal to open the fenced gate, beyond which, after another ten kilometres or so, one reached a small control centre and prefabricated buildings manned by sworn personnel who spoke little English. There, a guard, usually a Harasis, would accompany you to the enclosures where the oryx walked. The sun was just overwhelming, the news minimal, the natural spectacle disturbed by the fences... At the last news, it seems that the access is easy and that some guides speak English... At the time of closing, however, we hadn't managed to get any phone number, let alone a website and no practical information worthy of the name. We know that the reserve can be visited in 4x4 under the strict supervision of the site guards, who are a priori omnipresent. No reason, therefore, if you decide to go there, that you can't enter. The simplest way is probably to go there with a local receptive, within the framework of an "à la carte" tour for example. Oryx have gone from about 10 to 750.

Lined with terraced plantations and smooth, polished rocks, this oasis is constantly filled with water and offers a succession of pools wedged between two cliffs: a spot for swimming! Muscat's residents make no mistake and regularly come here to bask at weekends. Thanks to their orientation, the canyon's walls provide shade where it's good to rest or hike for a few hours - a footpath along the old caravan route that linked the port of Qurayyat to the interior.

A fort in the desert, a solitary sentinel facing the immensity. A little imagination will help us to conceive of its eminent role in this outpost on the shores of the sea of sand, when it served as a shelter and a place of command under the Bani Nabhan of the 13th century. On these very ancient foundations, Al Hawari bin Malik (1406-1428) had high walls and a tower that does not protrude beyond the ensemble. Reconstructed several times and renovated at the end of the 20th century, this noble and simple fort offers above all the opportunity to climb up to its heights to embrace the dune landscape.

In the ocre-pink dress, on a palm-bottom backdrop, this is a sumptuous orientalist décor. Largely ignored by flowered visitors flows, Bu Hassan's fort seems to us to be the most complete and balanced of all in this region. Its foundation dates from the ninth century, the era of Imam Al Muhana bin Jaifar. Sayyid Said bin Sultan (1804-1856) built this magnificent building restored in 1992. The surrounding area, the fort, the framework of a perfect palm grove, without signs to neon and sellers of laptops. Photo sequence.

Thanks to the know-how of the Scots, creators of the superb Royal Botanic Garden of Edinburgh, the pharaonic project of a conservatory of Omani flora is being developed on four hundred and twenty hectares. Once completed (at a date that remains absolutely unknown for the moment, especially since the pandemic has delayed the construction - 2024?), this botanical garden will be one of the largest in the world. Conceived as a research and preservation site, it will have a resource and information center for the public and will eventually present the eighty endemic species of the sultanate and a large sample of the twelve hundred species identified throughout the different ecosystems. Located in Al Khoud, in a wilderness area, twenty kilometers from Muscat and about thirty minutes west of the airport, the garden will gradually open to visitors. The site was not chosen by chance, it is one of the few places in the world where the old seabed is still visible after tectonic activity raised the bed to a hundred meters above sea level. The landscape designers and engineers worked with the existing natural ridges and ravines to design the various buildings and walkways that will ultimately form a spectacular hilly landscape. Visitors will be able to wander around the wadis, mountains and deserts of Oman in a few hours. Two of the most sensitive biomes (ecozones) will be developed in huge spherical buildings that will replicate the natural temperature and humidity of these unique habitats. A sinuous glass enclosure will house the Northern Mountain Ecozones and their ancient terraced plantations. A shimmering undulating glass sphere will protect the rich and varied habitats of the Dhofar region and immerse visitors in a green rainforest similar to that of the Salalah area during the Khareef (monsoon) season. The buildings and the garden site have been designed to meet the internationally recognized LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification for high environmental quality buildings and sites. A strategy has been developed to ensure that water, a particularly precious resource in the region, is produced in a sustainable manner and that not a drop is wasted. By its size, its ambition and its richness, it is certain that this project will make this conservation area an exceptional botanical garden. To be continued...

Khawr Ghawi is separated from the sea by a 6 km long sandbank that can be walked up to its end. At this point, the beach is not as attractive as the one in Dhiris, but the lagoon presents a wild landscape and allows to observe many birds (spoonbills, flamingos, ospreys, coconut sandpipers, etc.). In winter, these come by thousands to populate the sanctuary which then becomes very photogenic, especially as the palette of colours - ivory sand and turquoise lagoon against a hard blue sky - is very beautiful.

As you approach the village of Juwayrah (Al Jawarah), a sign indicates (if it is still there!) "Wadi Banaf"; at the height of it, you can see palm trees on the left, turn towards the sea and continue the track that leads to the lagoon. Going around the lagoon on the left, the track leads to the beach. This corner, often called the lagoon with three palm trees, is probably the most popular area for campers. The sand here is a little less fine and soft than elsewhere, but it stretches for miles. Presence of flamingos and other birds

Its name alone makes you dream, and means "the gathering place of geniuses" (the ones with the lamp, not the nerds ;). Gigantic and spectacular, it's one of the 10 largest caves in the world - see the photos posted on the web to get an idea of the immensity of the chasm! Located on the Selma Plateau, it was discovered by Americans Cheryl Jones and her husband Don Davidson during aerial exploration.

Since then, this geological wonder has been a fascinating playground for caving and climbing enthusiasts - those who are used to the sport, of course, and even those who are, will do well to enlist the services of a local guide. The impressive descent is by rope. Once at the bottom, the tunnels and caves offer plenty of places to explore with suitable equipment. The main underground chamber is a masterly 347 metres long by 245 metres wide, with a total height of 120 metres. There are three entrances at the top of the chamber, which, once at the bottom, project as many halos of light into the cavity.

Local legend has it that the cave was originally inhabited by a woman named Selma who, for some unknown reason, provoked the wrath of an enormous one-eyed genie. As he chased her across the plateau, he tried to kill her by hurling powerful lightning bolts at her. Luckily, the genie's eyesight was poor, and three of these bolts of lightning were lost, fracturing the rock of the plateau in three places and opening up three entrances to the cavern...

Inaugurated in March 2023, this museum is the fruit of a project initiated almost 10 years ago by the late Sultan Qaboos. Pharaonic in scale, the new cultural center occupies a surface area of 300,000 m², with the buildings alone covering more than 66,000 m². Inside, some of the galleries are over 20 metres high. These extraordinary dimensions are a tribute to Oman's rich history.

Contemporary and stylish, the fabulous architectural design is inspired by the country's topography, particularly the Hajar mountains. Respect for the environment and local climatic conditions, a value dear to the late Sultan Qaboos, guided the project. Thus, the east facade has a low profile designed to receive morning light, while the windows on the west side are integrated into sloping walls to prevent the impact of direct sunlight. This design reduces the energy the museum needs for lighting.

Through 2 main halls divided into several thematic pavilions, the museum traces the country's history up to the present day and its vision for the future. Particular emphasis is placed on the last 50 years, highlighting the Sultanate's economic, political, social and technological metamorphoses since the 1970s. Constantly interactive and connected, the scenography, like the entrance hall, is exceptional: virtual images allow visitors to travel back in time, and several experiences are offered throughout the visit.