REMPARTS DE NIZWA - AL AQUR WALL

The pride of the people of Nizwa, who undertook the complete renovation of the old town largely from their own funds, the ramparts of the ancient city are the region's new star attraction: an immersion in local life as the stroll along the crenellated walls attracts the whole of Oman as much as passing travellers. During the day, in the mild season and until late at night when the sun burns down, you can stroll at a leisurely pace through the palm fronds, among Omani families, groups of men and women in traditional dress. There's not a sound to be heard, apart from the gentle rustling of dishdashas and the discreet conversations of the locals, who are reputed to be calm and composed, occasionally interspersed with louder voices - those of travellers whose words naturally fade very quickly to match the evening's gentleness and ambient peace. Built under the reign of Imam Al-Sult bin Malik Al-Kharousi, 1200 years ago, the wall underwent major renovation and, above all, enlargement under Imam Sultan bin saif bin Malik Al-Yarubi in the second half of the eleventh century. Following on from the construction of the fort at Nizwa, he increased the width and height of the walls and added gates to reinforce the building's defensive role and protect the inhabitants from invaders and thieves. Neglected in recent decades, the fortification would eventually have disappeared had it not been for a new renovation undertaken in 2020. This masterly renovation will allow visitors to explore a large section of the 1950-metre ramparts. Approximately 2 m wide by 5 to 6 m high, reinforced by 15 towers 5 m in diameter, the tallest reaching 13 m, magnificently lit at night (hence the importance of returning after dinner if you've done the walk during the day), the walkway is punctuated by numerous attractions: educational panels, murals, various stores (perfumes, honey, jewelry, etc.) and numerous cafés with air-conditioned rooms, terraces and rooftops. All offer pretty much the same thing: fresh juices, non-alcoholic mojitos, a wide selection of coffees and teas, ice creams and pastries, and so on. There are no restaurants as such, but a wide esplanade at the foot of the ramparts is home to a number of eateries offering a choice of savoury dishes and sweet treats.