On leaving Kambos Bay, the road turns steeply right, towards the northeastern tip of Patmos. It leads to a number of beautiful pebbly coves sheltered from the wind, and winds along a magnificent coastline. First, the pretty bay of Vagia, with its translucent waters, cooler than elsewhere, is a little shady and quiet. Don't miss Café Vagia, overlooking the beach. Here you'll find a lovely terrace in a lush, flower-filled garden, as well as delicious pastries prepared on the premises. Continuing a little further east, you'll find the twin beaches of Didimes, renowned for the clarity of their waters. Large tamarisk trees provide welcome shade. On the first cove you come to, there's a straw hut offering refreshments. Back on the coastal road, Livadi Geranou boasts a wide, well-shaded beach with warmer waters than Vagia and Didimes. Good swimmers will easily reach the islet of Aghios Georgios and its small chapel. A tavern overlooks the site and offers a breathtaking view of the surrounding area. Beyond, the road leads to the wild bay of Geranou. Although the road is quite good, drive with caution, as potholes are plentiful, and you're in the domain of goats, which are not accustomed to being disturbed. At the far end, Geranou Bay is topped by a chapel offering a magnificent view. Accessible on foot, the coves below are totally wild, and you'll be alone in the world.

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Livadi Geranou. Aerial-motion - Shutterstock.com
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