a stop, even express, is obligatory there! South of Quemchi, on the coast, the village of Tenaún deserves a little visit for its superb church dated 1837, with its blue and red bell tower, which has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. If your heart (and stomach) tells you so, make a detour to the coast to meet the fishermen: in Chiloé, each municipality cultivates the art of artisanal fishing and in Tenaun, the specialty is the extraction of caged spider crabs. Get on board, the locals are always happy to share the fishing experience and as they say here, "the magic of Chiloé is popular knowledge"!

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