Franco's home town was, in his time, called "El Ferrol del Caudillo". After the death of the "leader", it was renamed Ferrol, which means "city of the sea". Nothing could be more logical for this large port of almost 68,000 inhabitants, which is trying to discreetly erase the shadow of the General, by highlighting its modernist architecture and its naval activity. And it is worth visiting, especially for its imposing 18th century military fortress, which opens onto the ria. The Magdalena district, the heart of the city, is worth a visit for its beautiful classicist buildings with wrought-iron balconies and glass galleries.Ferrol may surprise you. Modernist architecture clearly made its mark on this municipality in the mid-19th century, as evidenced by the many buildings in the town centre, including the Mercado de Ucha (1923), a superb fish market along the port. Also worth seeing is Exponav, a permanent exhibition dedicated to shipbuilding, at the Centro Cultural y Social de la Armada (www. exponav.org). Finally, don't hesitate to explore Ferrol's three neighbourhoods: the old town near the port, the Magdalena, built in the 18th century for the ferrolana aristocracy, and Esteiro, the old working-class district. In summer, guided tours of the Magdalena district are organised on Saturdays and Sundays. Generally, the tours start at 11:00 am from the town hall door.

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