The best restaurants Albania

A great address for meat lovers, near the Grand Parc dike. Beautiful, well-cooked cuts, simmered dishes, plenty of truffle shavings, good Albanian and Italian red wines. But the room is very small, and salads and seasonal vegetables quickly disappear from the menu. If you're not 100% carnivorous, you'd better make a reservation and don't come too late. And don't forget, you can only pay in cash here. But Tirana's small French-speaking community loves this place with its bistro atmosphere.

This restaurant claims to offer Greek and Mediterranean cuisine. That's not wrong, but it's mostly for his homemade pasta that you have to come. Located in a small white villa, between the American and Italian embassies, the hotel also offers a charming garden for romantic outdoor dining. At least, the decoration is sober and rather nice, and we will always find a waiter who speaks English. Nearby, Mustafa Matohiti Street is very lively, with some of the trendiest night bars in the capital.

Located in a cobblestone quarter dating from the late ^19th century, this restaurant had its heyday during the Communist era, when foreign delegations would visit the French Lycée opposite, where Enver Hoxha was a student and later a teacher. Now out of fashion, this "lycée inn" is still a good address, just a stone's throw from Republika Boulevard. The cuisine is simple and quite decent (grills, soups, salads). You'll appreciate the rustic fireside setting in winter and the garden under the arbour in summer.

It is one of the most charming restaurants in the area. Located at the top of the site of Apollonia of Illyria, it bears the name of the French archaeologist who excavated the site from 1924 to 1938. The building was built by his team to serve as a shelter for the site and one can still meet archaeologists working on the site. Daily dishes are served in the room decorated with photos of the first excavations or on the terrace, under the olive trees, with a view of the ruins and the Vjosa delta. Near the monastery, the Apollonia restaurant offers a more touristy menu.

The "canard fumé" restaurant is famous for its... smoked duck. The birds come from the estate's own farm, which also produces fruit, vegetables, wine and more. The presentation is meticulous, the dining room pleasant, but the service not always attentive. Breasts and legs are baked or cooked in a plum sauce, served with local pasta(petka) or rice. There's even foie gras! The menu also includes Albanian classics, pork on the spit, lamb or beef cuts and Ohrid trout(koran).

This popular traditional rotisserie(zgara) offers inexpensive grilled meats (lamb chops, sausages, pork, etc.) and fergëse (stews). It has two addresses in the lively Kavaja street. The one closest to Skanderbeg square (Zgara e Tironës by Le Noir) offers a slightly cold, fast-food atmosphere, close to the Tirana Backpacker Hostel. The second (Tek Zgara e Tironës), 250 m further along the same sidewalk, is our favorite, with its rustic decor, terrace and checked tablecloths.

This traditional restaurant is well placed for partying in the Blloku district, as there are several well-known bars nearby. The establishment is a piceri (pizzeria), but it offers a wide range of local specialties: soups, various fërgesa (simmered tomato and cheese dishes), meatballs in tomato sauce, pickled vegetables, salads, grilled meats... It's not haute cuisine, but it's a good introduction to local gastronomy. Another address is on rue Papa-Gjon-Pali-II, near the national stadium.

Housed in a large stone and wood house, the "Mystic Rose" restaurant (symbolizing the mystery of the Incarnation for Catholics) enjoys a superb location on the banks of the Vain lagoon, within the Kunë-Vain-Tale nature reserve. It serves small fried eels and wild duck from the lagoon, as well as shrimps, fish, bureks, fresh salads and homemade cornbread. Please note that prices vary according to whether you pay cash or by credit card.

Located on the Patok dike, this fine fish restaurant offers a magnificent panorama of the lagoon, its houses on stilts and its small fishing boats. You'll appreciate the wide variety of fresh fish caught in the Adriatic or in the lagoon: koce (sea bream), barbun (red mullet), levrek (sea bass), lojb (liche, cousin of horse mackerel), merluc (hake), ngjale (eel), qefull (mullet), romb (brill), burdullak (gobie-lote). We regret, however, that kitchen wastewater is discharged directly into the lagoon.

The "Ali le cheval restaurant" is not well signposted, but it's famous all over the country. And with good reason: the owner, Ali, brings your orders to you on horseback, making his mount lie down to pour onto the table a whole host of grilled fish, shrimps, grilled meats, salads, homemade honey and other big, soggy reds. It's pretty good and fresh, and above all copious (fish and shrimp are unlimited). In winter, meals are served in a cosy dining room with a fireplace. And, all year round, you can go and stroke the horses.

Not easy to find (GPS: 41.368907, 19.742311), this farm-restaurant is well worth a visit. It was founded in 1996 by Rexhep Uka, an agronomy researcher and former Minister of Agriculture. Tables covered with checkered tablecloths line the vineyards and orchards. Superb cuts of meat grilled on the spot, antipasti and seasonal organic vegetables, estate wines, efficient waiters and a warm atmosphere. Perfect before catching your plane at the nearby airport. Reservations are recommended.

This bistronomic restaurant is run by chef Avri Kita, who trained with Joël Robuchon. There's no menu, just a choice of two starters, two main courses and two desserts based on local seasonal produce. The dishes are well presented and often perfectly balanced in flavor. We also appreciate the work of the waiters, who succeed in instilling confidence in the Albanian clientele, unaccustomed to this approach. Intimate setting, interesting wines, good value for money and a pretty name:otium in Latin means "instructive leisure".

Durrës is full of good fish restaurants. This one is popular and inexpensive. You'll still enjoy a fine view of the shoreline and a no-fuss terrace in front of the first large beach to the south-east of the port. You can choose your meal from the stalls: sea bass, red mullet, sole, squid, clams, crabs or prawns... Raw or cooked, they're very good. Also some Italian specialties: bruschetta, spaghetti alle vongole or risotto al mare. With a large plate of Butrint mussels, you'll get away with an unbeatable price.

Situated at an altitude of 1,100 m, on the cliff overlooking Kruja, near the Sari-Saltik tekké, the bar-restaurant "Au bord de la montagne" offers breathtaking views over the entire Ishëm valley, the Tirana plain and the Preza hills. Simple, good home-cooked dishes: grills, salads, pizzas, etc. The place is also worth a detour for a simple coffee, as the scenery is so superb. Otherwise, down below, there are several restaurants within the Kruja fortress, including Bardhi, which boasts a beautiful panoramic terrace.

Housed in a colonnaded villa built in the 1930s, this gourmet restaurant is one of the most renowned in Albania. Here, according to the season, the brigade prepares dishes based on fish, meat and vegetables, all combining subtle aromas. A fine wine list is also available. No false notes in this superb establishment, which also doubles as a hotel. Chef Fundim Gjepali also runs the Antico Arco, one of Rome's finest restaurants, and the Agroturizëm Gjepali inn, between Tirana and Durrës.

Housed in a small red house, this restaurant offers refined, inexpensive seasonal cuisine in the pleasant Pazari i Ri district, alongside the fish and meat market: wild seafood risotto, shrimp and pumpkin emulsion, grilled octopus tacos, crab fagottini and, among the more expensive but still affordable dishes, a fine pork chop with honey or pigeon with foie gras. Perfect for breakfast too, with freshly baked pastries and two hearty brunch options.

This is Blloku's trendiest restaurant. You'll find everything here... except Albanian cuisine: sushi, seafood, tempura, tacos, fish ceviche or carpaccio, large cuts of beef and fusion dishes, accompanied by fine wines and plenty of good cocktails, all in a pleasant, modern setting. But be warned, the prices are almost Parisian, with, for example, a large seafood platter for 3 people at 13,000 leks or crab and truffle makis at 2,700 leks. Expensive, but good.

This farmhouse-restaurant, affiliated with the slow food movement, is pure bliss. Lost on the side of a small road beneath Petrela Castle (GPS: 41.255886, 19.846436), the establishment offers mezzés, salads and vegetables from the garden, classic Albanian and Greek dishes, including good meatballs with tomato, and even French bistro dishes such as terrine, not to mention a fine selection of wines from Berat, Koplik, Përmet... And in fine weather, you can enjoy all this on the terrace in the middle of nature.

Nestled at the bottom of a narrow street and a staircase, the restaurant "la mouette" is not easy to find. However, it is clearly worth the detour. You can find very good fresh fish (a bit expensive compared to local standards), an interesting 10-course menu, Italian cuisine as on the other side of the Straits of Otranto (linguini with prawns and dried ink, squid with tomato sauce cooked in the oven, successful panna cotta, etc.), neat presentation. Professional service, but sometimes a long wait.

This is one of those specialized bakeries where the national snack is prepared: the burek(byrek in Albanian, but it's pronounced "burek"). This is one of the best in Tirana. But be warned, there are plenty of others in the city with the same name, which means "burek a la minute". The establishment we recommend here is tucked away in a street behind Skanderbeg Square. All day long, it serves melt-in-the-mouth bureks straight from the oven: classic cheese or spinach bureks, but also meat, sausage or tomato-onion bureks.

Located in an alleyway off the main street, the "Trefoil" restaurant takes its name from the Greek name Përmet bore in ancient times. It offers some very good, purely local specialities: salcë shakulli (sheep's belly stuffed with dried yoghurt), kolloface (pork sausage), pulë me përshesh ("whole chicken" cooked with cornmeal crumble), kofshë qingji e mbushur (leg of lamb stuffed with almonds), shqeto përmeti (milk, flour, egg and lamb soup), and finally gliko (candied fruit or vegetables) for dessert.

Authentic Turkish and Ottoman cuisine is served in a refined setting and attracts loyal clientele for years. Very attentive service and traditional Turkish music in sound. The hotel is located near the intersection of S. Frashëri Street and Brigada VIII Street.

Situated in a pleasant 1936 villa with garden, this restaurant offers good-quality Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, with simple but tasty wood-fired pizzas and more elaborate dishes that follow the seasons. The establishment is also a hotel: ten good-quality rooms at €75/100 for two, with perfect bedding, good breakfast and parking on reservation, plus packed lunches, airport shuttle and car rental. A good option for sleeping in the city center.

A good address (which also makes hotel - see further «Dajti National Park») on Mount Dajti, to taste the fondant fondant but also to produce more wild meats (local game). But we also come and especially for the magnificent panorama on the capital, there, at the bottom…

Located in a pleasant house surrounded by greenery, on a street perpendicular to Elbasanit Street (15 minutes walk from Skanderbeg square). On the menu of Mediterranean and Albanian specialities, there is also a large selection of compound salads, pasta, risottos, pizzas, fish and grilled meats.

Chic fish restaurant in the lively street of Kavaja. It's a branch of a well-known Durrës establishment. Everything is fresh and well presented. Specializing in raw assortments served on ice, including rare Adriatic sea urchins and a squid ceviche with Peruvian lemon and green anise, but also whole grilled fish, small fried dishes, octopus, lobster, Butrint mussels, oysters, Italian-style pasta, authentic mozzarella di buffala... Only the service is a little disappointing. Reservations recommended.

This slightly old-fashioned restaurant is housed in a building reminiscent of medieval castles. It was one of Ismail Kadaré's favorite addresses. It's easy to see why: it's surrounded by the trees of the Grand Parc. On the menu: fresh, inexpensive salads, beautiful and expensive cuts of beef, Italian-style pasta or risotto and very good wood-fired pizzas. We love this place in the morning for a quiet coffee or during the day. Don't hesitate to bring the whole family - children will love the playground! Another address in Blloku.

An elegant gourmet fish restaurant, a little pricey but very good, with a chic terrace and a beautiful view of the waves. Everything is fresh and well presented. Raw assortments served on ice, including rare Adriatic sea urchins, squid ceviche with Peruvian lemon and green anise, grilled whole fish, small fried dishes, lobster, Butrint mussels, oysters, Italian-style pasta recipes, authentic mozzarella di buffala... Only the service is a little disappointing. The restaurant is very popular, so we recommend you make a reservation!

This Italian restaurant has Vlora's most popular terrace, whether for dinner or a drink. The à la carte menu includes pizzas, antipasti, pasta and fried dishes. Located on a ledge just above the tunnel to Radhima and next to the Albanian state residence, it boasts a magnificent view over the bay. The hotel also boasts seven comfortable, well-equipped rooms facing the sea. The only problem is that it can be noisy at night.

Opened in 2017, this tavern has yet to disappoint. Far from it. In fact, it's become our favorite Korça address. Terrace right in the middle of the Old Bazaar, neat decor, homemade sausages, very good family specials (rarely on the menu elsewhere) and, upstairs, an open kitchen with a few tables. The team running the place is friendly and the prices very reasonable given the quality. Our only regret is that the red wine comes from Montenegro. But this could change, as there is an increasingly interesting production around Korça.

This restaurant is located on the shores of the small (700^m2) artificial lake of Mursi and the mainly Orthodox village of Mursi. It is run by a Swiss couple and a Konispol resident. It serves an astonishing array of international cuisine: toasted sesame feta and Greek-style tzatziki, Italian-style bruschetti and involtini, Spanish-style gazpacho and paella, Albanian-style fish tavë and qofte, baklava with a hundred layers of phyllo pastry, and more. A little pricey, but all very good. We also appreciate the small camping area.

Located in a beautiful setting at the foot of Mount Dajti, this restaurant is named after its owner, Ceren Ismet Shehu, a renowned chef who offers traditional Albanian cuisine using natural farm produce. The set menu changes with the seasons, with plenty of starters, cheeses, desserts and a meat dish to choose from. It's fresh, hearty and the lamb is very good. It's such a success that Ceren has opened another restaurant of the same name in the center of town, at "Tirana Castle", but this one is disappointing.

This is a very pleasant restaurant-camping. Located in the lower part of Kruja, it benefits from a large, shady garden. The menu features organic produce from the estate: olives and olive oil, grilled vegetables, roast kid or lamb, homemade bread, burek with wild herbs, vegetarian dishes, etc. The camping area is fairly simple, with clean sanitary facilities. Count €20 for two with a camper van or tent and a car (electricity and Wifi included).

This vegan/vegetarian restaurant offers all kinds of sandwiches(quesadillas, falafels, burritos, pitas...), fishless makis, soy steak burgers, soups, Italian-style pastas, Chinese noodles and ramen. We like the sweet potato fries, but the guacamole isn't always homemade. Drinks: smoothies, fruit juices and a little alcohol. Other similar addresses: Falafel House (Rruga Ibrahim Rugova 4, in Blloku) and Chakra Indian Fusion (Rruga Murat Toptani, right bank).

Housed on the first floor of an unassuming modern building facing the harbor, this wine bistro hides its secrets well. It enjoys a superb setting, as it is located within the ancient walls of the city, where the via Egnatia left towards Thessalonica and Constantinople. In this elegant, well-exploited setting, you can sample some excellent Albanian wines made from local grape varieties, such as kallmet from around Lezha and shesh i zi from the Durrës-Fier region. To be enjoyed with plates of Albanian cheese or Balkan charcuterie.

Përmet's Table" is the town's busiest restaurant. On the terrace along the main street or in the dining room, you'll find plenty of traditional Albanian dishes(tavë, dolma, fasule, paçe, pilaf, byrek...), local meats and cheeses, trout from the Vjosa, Italian-style pasta and, by reservation, whole chicken with walnuts or rice for 3 or 4 people. There are also plenty of options for vegetarians and vegans: tavë me perime (baked vegetable casserole), mbushura (peppers stuffed with rice), salads, etc.

This traditional restaurant has a certain charm. Housed in a beautiful wood and stone building, it serves good meat grilled directly over an open fire. The welcome is rustic to say the least (no one here speaks English, French or even Italian), but with a few smiles and glasses of raki, you'll soon make yourself understood. The establishment also offers inexpensive accommodation (small wooden chalets and camping pitches) and even a mini-ski resort with a slope and a t-bar.

This establishment is both a restaurant and a winery. Set in the magnificent Sharka Valley, you can enjoy a host of organic products from neighboring villages or from the estate: red wines, antipasti, cheeses, pastas, cold meats and superb grilled meats cooked on mini-barbecues that the waiters bring to the tables. In winter, you can enjoy the fireplace in the large room on the first floor. In summer, the terrace offers a splendid view of the fortress mosque and vineyards.

This is the restaurant of the Hôtel Élysée, 80 m away on rue Themistokli-Gërmenji. It's not really a garden, but rather a shady courtyard with plants and a fountain, as well as a plainly decorated interior room. The welcome is friendly and there's even a very exotic French menu (mimosa eggs, filet mignon, pain perdu...). Otherwise, the menu features mainly Albanian and Italian specialties: meatballs with tomato, tavë dheu, fasule, various types of risottos and pasta. Suitable and reasonably priced.

The "Goût du Village" restaurant is located in a basement. And it's aptly named, since most of the vegetables come from the owner's hamlet, Mandi, near Petrela. But it's one of the few good, inexpensive restaurants around Skanderbeg square. On the menu: tavë kosi (the national dish, rice and lamb baked in the oven), fërgesë verore (vegetables and cheese baked in the oven)outavë dheu (the same thing but with calf's liver), Berat wines, craft beer from Pogradec (Birra e Gjyshit)... A good authentic restaurant.

In a small room nicely decorated with traditional costumes and objects, you will taste Albanian specialties from the Korça region. The dishes are copious and nicely presented, and we particularly recommend the village pie. The warm welcome adds to the charm of this address located in a very quiet area. The staff is very nice and the service is excellent. Beyond the dishes, it is especially for the atmosphere, the live music, the family environment and the general good mood that one comes here.

Housed in a neoclassical villa, this is one of Korça's most popular restaurants. It serves good international cuisine: salads, pizzas, pastas, meats, fish and a wide selection of desserts. Outside mealtimes, Finfour is also a café and lounge bar, offering breakfast, hot drinks, fruit juices and a wide selection of alcoholic beverages. The different rooms are all very pleasant. For more privacy, reserve a table on the small balcony upstairs.

For a gourmet or refreshing break, this place offers several ambiances and also a quality service with fresh fruit juices or cocktails with or without alcohol. You will find wines from the world as well as the famous kallmette, organic products, sandwiches from regional products. Jazz and French music.

This traditional restaurant shares its name with the country's most famous establishment, in the Lezha region: Mrizi i Zanave ("The Shadow of the Fairies"), in reference to a collection of poems by Gjergj Fishta published in 1913. This restaurant is less well known, but still very good, with northern specialties such as flia (layers of pancakes with sour cheese), stewed dishes, Adriatic fish, kallmet wine (red grape variety), but also well-executed Italian recipes and desserts. A good address in a pleasant setting.

This is undoubtedly the best-known restaurant for tourists visiting the Albanian capital. It's true that it's a pleasant place, in the friendly Pazari i Ri district, with its pretty, shady courtyard and traditional ^19th-century Albanian house decor. It serves specialties from all over the country: tavë kosi, kukurec (skewered offal), harapash (polenta), baked lamb and more. The diners are often entertained by musicians. But the establishment is a victim of its own success, so book well in advance.