From Dubrovnik, the fastest way to get to the Croatian island of Korčula is to take the catamaran that leaves from the port of Gruz and takes about two hours to make the 60 nautical miles. But the journey by road has some nice surprises. By bus or tourist vehicle, on the northern riviera, you should make a stop at Trsteno to visit the arboretum, this neo-romantic park from which you have a breathtaking view of the sea. Lord Byron himself was amazed by such beauty.

Just at the isthmus connecting the mainland to the Pelješac peninsula, the walled city of Mali Ston is dominated by a long medieval wall of 980 m. The oldest salt marshes in Europe are still in operation in its bay, where the largest selection of oysters and mussels are harvested, raised in the traditional way by oyster farmers who deliver throughout the country. Restaurants serve ultra-fresh platters, and some organize sea trips to the marine farm where the farms are located.

The long peninsula of 70 km is like a tongue of land that lovingly brushes the island of Korčula. It deserves more than a stopover. From Mali Ston to Orebić, the inland road passes through pine forests and scrubland, and by the Dingač tunnel, the landscape becomes quite bucolic. Overlooking the Pelješac canal, on the steeply sloping hills, fields of vines as far as the eye can see yield the best Croatian red wines, dingač, a version of plavac mali, which contains a lot of alcohol (up to 17%!) and postup. Another famous Pelješac grape, maraština, is a lighter dry white.

Still on the southwestern coast, the Viganj water sports base is a mecca for board sports while hikers and cyclists follow, all year round, marked routes to the peaks of Sveti Ivan or Sveti Ilija (961 m).

Orebić, the nerve center of Pelješac

At the narrowest point of the canal, the port of Orebić was the birthplace of captains and sailors, whose memory is preserved in the Maritime Museum. These wealthy sailors had villas built for themselves, which today emerge from lush parks and gardens with centuries-old fir trees, Mediterranean and exotic plants and flowers, which give a nice touch to the sea promenade. While Orebić benefits from its large marina, beautiful beaches and bays with crystal clear sea, its direct connection to Korčula is a plus. If you travel on foot, from the port of Orebić, it is better to take the fast catamaran, which leaves you in 10 min to the old port of Korčula. The ferry takes buses and motor vehicles, crosses the canal and drops its passengers 2 km from the historic center, at the car-ferry terminal of Korčula-Domince. At the center of a dense maritime network, with its five ports, the island is hyper-connected with the County of Dubrovnik-Neretva, the islands of Hvar, Mljet, Lastovo, Brač as well as Split and Makarska. It is served by seven Dalmatian companies. There is much less traffic outside the summer season, but, weather permitting, it remains around 6-15 crossings per day.

Korčula, the Little Dubrovnik

The arrival by boat in Korčula offers a panoramic view of the small peninsula where the walled city was founded, the one called Mali Dubrovnik (Little Dubrovnik). It is one of the most beautiful Croatian island towns. Behind its thick walls, it has a beautiful pedestrian area that is organized according to an ingenious plan. Arranged in a herringbone pattern, the alleys let the air circulate in summer and protect from cold winds in winter. To enter the old town, you have to climb the famous steps up to the Tower of the Southern Land Gate, also called the Revelin Tower, under which you have to enter. Within the city walls you can visit the Gothic-Renaissance St. Mark's Cathedral, the Venetian Gothic Arneri Palace, the Bishop's Palace, the Municipal Museum in the 15th century Gabrijelis Palace and the City Hall Square. Of the beautiful stories that populate the old town, the most famous myth is by far that of Marco Polo. The great discoverer would have been born in Korčula... One thing is sure, it is that he took part in the naval battle of Venice in 1298. He was captured by the Genoese army and imprisoned in Korčula.

Now it's time for an aperitivo! Enjoy a drink to appreciate the atmosphere of the city. Every part of the island is worth exploring. Inland, the road passes through the vineyards of Smokvica and Čara. Estates have opened their tasting cellars, where you can discover the white dessert wine, pošip.

The town of Blato is picturesque. It is built in an amphitheater in a small valley and is surrounded by hills. The historical center is embellished with a pedestrian promenade, lined with old lime trees (Zlinja), which are quite rare in Croatia. You can stay nearby at the port of Prigradica.

At the eastern tip of Korčula, Lumbarda stretches along a fairly natural shoreline, with coves and hills with vast sandy vineyards, perfect for hiking and biking trails. On the more jagged western tip, the port of Vela Luka was made famous by Oliver Dragojević, the Croatian song icon. Archaeologists have found a Neolithic cave here (Vela Špilja), which proves an occupation of the island from prehistoric times.

The archipelago of Korčula is composed of about twenty islets. On the island of Badija, good anchorages for boats are located west of the Franciscan monastery (can be visited upon reservation). Also worth seeing are two churches and adorable deer that live in the wild. In short, you can spend the day here, picnic, swim.

But Korčula is not just a summer destination. Performances of its living folklore enliven the different seasons. In many places, carnivals return at the beginning of the year with music, a cappella singers (klapa) and masked balls (Maskara). At the end of April, a chivalrous dance (Kumpanija) takes place in Blato, Smokvica, Cara, Pupnata. Dressed in rich traditional costumes, the men perform theatrical scenes to the sound of bagpipes and drum rolls. The Moreska sword dance on wind instruments is a symbolic struggle between Christians and Muslims. It was adopted in Korčula after the Ottoman invasions and is still performed today in summer. An impressive spectacle.

Traditional gastronomy full of sweets

For a long time, the inhabitants of the Adriatic islands were satisfied with southern fruits (figs, almonds), ancestral crops (olive trees, vines), vegetables from the garden, sea products and small livestock. Poultry for eggs, goats or sheep for milk and delicious cheeses.

The more expensive gastronomy is reserved for festive days. In the kitchen, olive oil is used in every dish. Together with aromatic herbs, dingač wine is used for marinades. If white meat, lamb for example, is the most consumed, one does not hesitate to bring out the smoked ham (prsut) or small game for special occasions. On the other hand, the catch of the day is cooked in large quantities. For starters, salted sardines and picarels, octopus salad, small fry. The whole fish is grilled, seized in court-bouillon or simmered in stew. It can be accompanied by rice or polenta.

White wine is served with meals and is also the basis for traditional brandy (lozovaca) or herbal liqueurs. Orange and lemon peels are saved for infusions or desserts, of which Korčula is very fond. Fried doughnuts enriched with raisins and almonds (prikle), sweet Easter bread (sirnica), small cakes filled with almonds (cukarini, klasuni), krokant with crumbled almonds sweetened with honey, candied citrus fruits, quince paste (kotonjata), all of these sweets can be ordered in pastry shops, tea rooms or good restaurants.

FUTURE INFO

When to fly?

- All year round with Croatia Airlines and Air France.

- In the pre- and post-summer season, visitors are particularly interested in nature and heritage, hiking, cycling and wine tourism, and gastronomy.

- Masked balls and carnivals on the island of Korčula around Mardi Gras.

- Easter celebrations.

- At the end of April , Kumpanija show and the Marco Polo Challenge, a charity triathlon. To register, go to the website.

- All summer long, seaside, sailing, board sports, diving.

- From June to September, weekly dance show (Moreška).

- On July 29, the day of St. Theodore, patron saint of Korčula-city, there is a big procession of the three brotherhoods.

- In September, baroque music festival in Korcula.

Duration

One or two weeks to visit Dubrovnik, to make excursions on the northern and southern rivieras, to go to sea (peninsulas and archipelagos).

Budget

It all depends on the style of vacation, for accommodation, from youth hostels (30 to 50 € per night) to luxury hotels (not less than 200 € per night), the number of sports activities, paying shows, good restaurants, etc. In economic mode, count around 1 000 € per week all included.

Public

- Paragliders on the Sveti Ivan or Sveti Ilija mountains (961 m).

- Lovers of water sports and scuba diving.

- Families enjoy the free roaming deer on the island of Badija.

- Boaters sail around Pelješac and the Korčula archipelago.

The most

- Very varied vacations: the seaside, nature and heritage discoveries, sports, entertainment.

The minuses

- In summer, the crowd in the historic centers, on the beaches, price inflation, the queue at the ferry boarding.

To go there

- Since the summer of 2022, a gigantic maritime road bridge (Pelješki most) spans the bay of Mali Ston. It connects the northern coast to the peninsula, avoiding the need to go through Bosnia-Herzegovina. A must-see!

- At the Dubrovnik bus station, there are several buses to Korčula-port via Pelješac.

- For ferry and catamaran schedules, prices, reservations and boarding conditions, visit the Croatia Ferries website.

Useful

- STON TOURIST OFFICE - More information on the website

Gundulićeva poljana 1

Tel: +385 20 754 452

- KORČULA TOURIST OFF ICE - More information on the website

Trg 19. travnja 1921., 40

Tel: +385 20 715 701

- BADJIA - More information on the site

To know everything about the small island.