Al Jazeera Al Hamra, the red island, sounds to many like the coral stone village, abandoned and given over to evil spirits! Once a hamlet of 2,000 inhabitants from 3 distinct tribes, all pearl-fishermen, the village was abandoned nearly 70 years ago, and now hosts a fine arts festival every spring. Nearby, huge hotel complexes await tourists who come in droves to soak up the sun. The heritage and history of ancient Julfar flirt side by side with mass tourism, which seems to ignore the glorious past of this 7,000-year-old emirate.

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