From Năsăud, take the 17D to Șanț (population 3,000). This pretty road, surrounded by hills, runs alongside the Someș Mare river. First we pass Sângeorz-Băi, a small spa where we'll find a roof for the night. In Rodna are the ruins of a 10th-century fortress. We then arrive in Șanț. You'll be enchanted by this village, with its distinctive architectural houses set around its church (1700). You'll find several guesthouses here. It's the starting point for many signposted routes to Rodna National Park. To the north, Lake Lala Mare, near Mount Ineu, is one of the most beautiful and highest lakes in the country.

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