Vienna, city of composers
Vienna has a special place in the hearts of music lovers around the world. And this is probably because historically the capital has always had a fabulous power of attraction for the greatest musicians in the German-speaking world. Historically, such a concentration of geniuses in one place at one time is a unique phenomenon. It is especially from the second half of the 18th century that the creation of the imperial city reaches its peak with the birth of some musical prodigies.
The most famous is a certain Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756-1791). A prodigious composer and harpsichordist born in Salzburg, Mozart began performing at the age of 6 in the salons of Schönbrunn
in front of Empress Maria Theresa and then at the most important European courts between the ages of 7 and 10. He died prematurely at the age of 35, leaving behind a Dantesque body of work of more than 600 pieces, many of which remain among the summits of symphonic, chamber and operatic music. Mozart, along with his elder brother - and occasional chamber music partner - Franz Joseph Haydn (1732-1809), became the embodiment of Viennese classicism (also called the "First Viennese School"), a revolution in music writing in which melody is simplified and harmony clarified.A mentor to Amadeus - who called him "Papa" - Joseph Haydn
began his career in 1761 as a servant to the Esterházy family, a wealthy Hungarian prince. For thirty years, he was both the composer and conductor of their palace orchestra, leading an ensemble of twenty musicians and presenting his creations to the European ruling elite. When his patron died in 1790, he left for London where he triumphed, then returned to Vienna where he continued to compose, before dying peacefully at the age of 77.
Beethoven.
Inhabited by the genius of Beethoven, Franz Schubert (1797-1828) is another of these mythical Viennese artists. Schubert died in his prime (31 years old), and in just 17 years he produced an immense body of work that ranks alongside Mozart and Haydn. Born in Vienna, in the Lichtental district in 1797, his meeting with Salieri at the age of 17, who was then directing the Chapelle Royale, changed his practice. An emblematic composer of German Romantic music, he offered the world a repertoire of more than a thousand compositions - including a dozen symphonies - and is still considered the undisputed master of the Lied
.
Anton Bruckner
(1824-1896), has seen his work long misunderstood. Recognized as a master of the symphony long after his death, he is today a pillar of the symphonic repertoire in concert programs.Although German by birth, it is impossible not to mention Johannes Brahms
(1833-1897), one of the most important composers, pianists and conductors of the Romantic period, whose career took place mainly in Vienna.Gustav Mahler (1860-1911) is one of the most illustrious names to be added to the Viennese musical pantheon of the time. Born into a Jewish family from Bohemia, then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, he was the conductor of theNational Opera for ten years and brought about a major musical revival. An innovator, he overturned the rules of opera, reformed the organization, the staging and the sets by inventing the stage management. He had all of Wagner's works performed. He then resigned to direct the Metropolitan Opera in New York. He returned to Vienna in 1911 with a heart condition, where he died five days later, leaving an unfinished Tenth Symphony
, perhaps his most performed work. Mahler, mainly known to the general public for his symphonies, also wrote vocal compositions on epic poetry of the German Middle Ages: a return to myth, initiated by Wagner whom Mahler admired so much.
Johann Strauss Sr. (1804-1849) came from the school of music in cafés and inns. The Vienna of the 19th century was marked by a joyful whirl of parties and dances, and a light form of opera, the "operetta", was created at the same time as the famous Viennese waltzes. The Strauss dynasty was the figurehead of this form. The father's career began when he joined the orchestra of Lanner, the precursor of the genre, in 1819. The two men quickly fell out, as Strauss had difficulty with Lanner signing his own scores. A jewel in the crown of typically Austrian music, notably with his Radetzky March
, many of his compositions seem a bit outdated today. Appointed director of the Court balls in 1846, he participated in the establishment of the waltz as a fashionable bourgeois dance. He tried to dissuade his son from becoming a musician, but his advice was not followed.This is how Johann Strauss Jr. (1825-1899) became the Austrian composer who made all of Europe dance in his time. Competing with his father, he set up his own orchestra at the age of 19 in which he played the violin with virtuosity. His Blue Danube
is known throughout the world.At the beginning of the 20th century, Vienna did not slow down!
On the contrary, the capital was to become a lung of the world avant-garde with the Viennese Atonal School. Theorized by Arnold Schönberg (1874-1951), then explored by his students, Alban Berg (1895-1935) and Anton von Webern (1883-1945), this music abandoned classical tonality in favor of atonality and dodecaphony. If one were to summarize, one would say that the Viennese Atonal School is to music what the Oulipo is to literature. This school spread throughout Europe from 1945 onwards. The two world wars may have shaken Vienna, but its musical genius remained intact, embodied throughout the century by Zemlinsky, Schreker, Korngold, Ligeti, Einem, Wellesz... So many illustrious representatives of the new wave of modern, contemporary music.In the footsteps of geniuses
Just behind St. Stephen's Cathedral, in the narrow Domgasse, is Mozart's house, where he lived from 1784 to 1787 and composed The Marriage of Figaro. Walk through the old town to Beethoven's house, just behind the votive church. Heading north to the Alsergrund district, you will come across Schubert's birthplace, not far from theLichtental church where he played his works.
Then head south to the Mariahilf district to visit the house where Joseph Haydn died. The walk through this district will lead you to the Wieden district, where Franz Schubert lived the last years of his life. We visit his last apartment before visiting his first grave next to Beethoven's in the Währinger Schubertpark, both of which have been moved to the "Musicians' Square" in the Central Cemetery. The Viennese tour of composers' houses ends with the house of Johann Strauss, a stone's throw from the Prater and its Ferris wheel. It was here that he composed the famous Blue Danube, which still has the Viennese dancing. On the outskirts of the city, you can visit the new Beethoven Museum in Heiligenstadt, not far from the Heuriger where he liked to quench his thirst, to be completed by a visit to the Beethovenhaus in Baden. Finally, several places inEisenstadt recall the memory of Haydn, in this city where he was in the service of the Esterházy princes.
Where to listen to classical music?
Today, Vienna has retained its status as the "capital of classical music" thanks to fabulous institutions such as the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra(Wiener Philarmoniker), which resounds in the Musikverein, one of the best halls in the world (quite simply) in the hearts of connoisseurs thanks to its exceptional acoustics. Bach and Beethoven are regularly performed, but the seats are usually full, especially for the famous New Year's Day Concert. The Wiener Mozart Konzerte, which also performs here, is another option. Not far away, theState Opera, located on the Ring, can be another good starting point for a musical exploration of the city. As a major European stage, it guarantees to hear the best of the classical repertoire while still leaving room for innovation. Heading towards the Stadtpark, your steps will naturally lead you to the Wiener Konzerthaus, an Art Nouveau concert hall. Although it is not as famous as the previous halls, its program is always of the highest quality and regularly welcomes the musicians of the Vienna Symphony Orchestra. Every year, the Résonances festival, dedicated to early music, takes place here. The nearby Kursalon offers a program of works by Johan Strauss and Mozart.
After crossing the Stadtpark - and seeing its statues dedicated to Johann Strauss, Franz Schubert, Anton Bruckner, Andreas Zelinka or Robert Stolz - a good idea is to pass by the Haus der Musik, an incredible museum dedicated to sounds, full of interactive installations. It's always a hit with kids. Nearby, the MUK (Johannesgasse 4A), the university dedicated to music and performing arts, sometimes offers concerts performed by students. Don't hesitate to come in and ask about the program
Finally, another emblematic place to listen to the works of Mozart or Strauss, the Schönbrunn Palace which organizes every evening a concert in the orangery
Popular music
One of the most popular forms of music in Austria is Schrammelmusik from Vienna. Named after its founders, the Schrammel brothers, this music is played by three or four musicians - violin, accordion and double-necked guitar - and relates the adventures of popular heroes of yesteryear or Viennese life. These songs are part of the classical repertoire of the Wiener Lieder, the Viennese songs. The melodies are imbued with a relative dryness and bitterness. Among the most famous modern performers of the genre, Roland Neuwirth is almost an icon.
Current music
Let's not think that the Austrian capital is asleep on its heritage. Vienna has a young and dynamic creative scene and people no longer come to the capital just to listen to Mozart, Strauss or Schönberg. The Waves festival, which often shines by its flair, is an excellent opportunity to hear the Austrian talents in the making. After the iconic trip-hop duo Kruder & Dorfmeister paved the way in the late 1990s, a thriving scene has developed and continues to thrive. Among the most interesting names, the label Editions Mego is one of the most respected avant-garde entities in the world and produces the work of local figures such as Christian Fennesz. Also Karma Art, a trip-hop artist in the tradition of Kruder & Dorfmeister, Dorian Concept and Cid Rim, two producers whose jazz, funk and hip-hop electronic music has seduced major foreign labels such as Ninja Tune or LuckyMe, the ambient duo Ritornell or the techno duo named Mieux or Ulrich Troyer and his modern and adventurous dub.
To get a taste of this scene and to experience the Wiener Szene (the "trendy Vienna" or "underground"), there is nothing better than to go to one of the city's countless clubs. Rhiz is one of the most famous places for electronic music, Fluc is one of the most important places in Vienna's nightlife and offers hip-hop and techno in an arty and trendy atmosphere, and Pratersauna is a big deal and offers 1,800square meters of
dancing space, including by (or in) the pool. In June, the Donauinselfest is held, a three-day open-air party with giant pop and rock concerts on 20 different stages.The theater
Vienna, city of culture and capital of the classical period, was also marked by great playwrights. The most illustrious of these is undoubtedly Franz Grillparzer (1791-1872), who was influenced by Weimar classicism and wrote ten plays that are well established in the repertoire of Germanic scenes. Also worthy of mention is Hugo von Hofmannsthal (1874-1929), who was a collaborator of Richard Strauss (of whom he wrote most of the booklets) and author of a series of tragedies inspired by Elizabethan and ancient theatre, and Felix Salten (1869-1945), prolific writer and father of Bambi, Thomas Bernhard (1931-1989), an Austrian born in the Netherlands, recognized as one of the most important writers of his generation, and finally the Nobel Prize winners Elfriede Jelinek and Peter Handke, whose success has taken the reputation of Austrian literature around the world.
Two theatres that are absolutely must see in the city: the National Theatre (Burgtheater), a symbol of Viennese public and artistic life and one of the most representative scenes of German-language dramaturgy, and the charming Josefstadt Theatre, one of the best theatres in Vienna, along with the Burgtheater (but with a smaller audience typical of the classic Viennese intellectual scene).
