This pretty Saxon town of 78,000 has a pleasant town center, with a fine 14th-century Gothic church. Bistrița can also be a stopover on a pilgrimage in Dracula's footsteps: in Bram Stoker's novel, it's here that the hero Jonathan Harker spends his first night, before reaching the Count's castle in the Bârgău Pass. In the book, he sleeps at the Hotel de la Couronne d'Or (Coroana de aur), which has nothing authentic about it: it was built in the 1980s to cater to tourists! A dozen trains run daily between Cluj and Bistrița (allow 2h30 to 3h).

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Tenues authentiquement roumaines, Bistrița. Ioan Florin Cnejevici - Shutterstock.com
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