The attraction of Sovata (population 10,000) might be its main street, where wooden portals vie for prominence. But tourists flock here above all for the baths, at Sovata Băi, on the heights of the town. Some of the buildings from the period do much to enhance the elegance of the site. The five lakes that dominate it have been used for cures since the 19th century. The prettiest, Lacul Ursu (Bear Lake), is known for its waters of varying temperatures: the surface is cool, but at a depth of just one metre, the temperature rises to 35°C! Mud, water and nearby forests: spa enthusiasts will be delighted. On the road to Sovata, each house has its own garden, flower-filled balconies and rooms for rent to the many tourists, most of whom are Hungarian. You'll find plenty of vendors selling kürtős, delicious tube-shaped pastries, best eaten piping hot.

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