Travel Guide Laâyoune

Laâyoune, with a population of around 220,000, is by no means a historic city. It was created from scratch on the banks of the Sakia el-Hamra wadi by the Spanish in 1932. It developed around its dual functions as a military and mining town, in order to exploit the large phosphate deposits in the area. Unlike other Saharan towns such as Sidi Ifni or Tarfaya, Laâyoune has benefited greatly from Moroccan settlement in the region since 1975. Its development as an administrative capital has spawned a number of modern, expensive buildings. The best example is probably the Place du Méchouar, built in 1985 to mark the arrival of Hassan II, with its Palais des Congrès and the fifty or so Moroccan flags surrounding it. Western Sahara is still a disputed region between the authorities in Rabat and the Polisario Front. Laâyoune, the supposed capital of the Sahara, wants above all to be "Moroccan". The authorities have encouraged many Moroccans to come and work in the south, luring them with financial aid and tax breaks. Once you're there, you realize that the reality is different, that not all Moroccans from the North living in Laâyoune are wealthy entrepreneurs, and that the Saharawis don't have to beg to survive. One thing is clear, however: the two communities hardly mix. Since 1991, the omnipresent UN has been preparing, through Minurso, for a referendum (which keeps being postponed) to determine the status of Western Sahara. Added to this are thousands of Moroccan soldiers in their brand-new barracks and roadside checks by police, gendarmes and soldiers. It all adds up to a mysterious atmosphere. The large police and military presence in the city center doesn't make it an ideal place for a stroll. Opt for the more popular area around Place D'Cheira and Rue Moulay Idriss Ier. A few Spanish plaques and café names recall the colonial era. The church, opposite the town hall, is still standing. Laâyoune is deserted by day and awakens at nightfall, no doubt a legacy of the Spanish era. Laayoune was the scene of tragic events in 2010, so make sure you know what's going on before you go. Normally, there should be no security problems for tourists, but it's best to be vigilant. Tourism, the government's main area of development, is experiencing difficulties, mainly due to the lack of hotel infrastructure. You only have to go to the beach to understand this: the coast has no quality hotel infrastructure and seems to have been abandoned. The higher-category hotels are often fully booked, as 80% of them are reserved by the Minurso armed forces, and as there are very few medium-category hotels, the only option left for tourists is a myriad of small hotels. Nevertheless, an attempt has been made to give the town the look of an old desert town, with its small square houses in adobe-covered concrete, topped with ochre-toned domes.