The track, in poor condition, goes down to the bed of the Agoundiss wadi. Look out! The bridge over the wadi was washed away by the floods. A path then climbs up to the hamlet of Tinmal which is now passable by car in the dry season. For those who wish to continue on foot, it is not advisable to stop your vehicle too close to the wadi (especially in rainy periods: the floods are sudden!). Cross the wadi and climb through the olive grove to the holy city. Some remains of the ramparts remind us that the city was once fortified. Today, it has 35 families. As for the mosque, it is one of the only ones in Morocco open to non-Muslims. The building is square and consists of nine naves with five bays and two naves with three bays, the latter being arranged laterally along the central courtyard. The minaret inspired that of the Koutoubia in Marrakech, also erected by Abd el-Moumen. Its mihrab (prayer niche), sober and bare, is admirable in its finesse and placed at the base of the minaret, which is rare for a mosque. The Kasbah of Tinmal is not the most beautiful, but it is worth the detour. It is here that 800 years ago the Almohad dynasty developed, which, from Marrakech, was to reign over all Morocco. Tinmal is still revered as the spiritual home of the region. Built in stone and wood, the building, renovated with the help of Unesco, is the subject of curious legends. It is claimed that it is here, on the very spot where Ibn Toumert was declared founding father of the Almohad movement, that are hidden the sumptuous treasures that the sultans stripped Marrakech of. The same bad tongues add that, while the Almohad doctrine advocates a return to the strict faith and asceticism of Islam but also the abandonment of the material goods of this low world, the Almohads have amassed a fabulous treasure. In any case, during their capture of Tinmal in the 13th century, the Marinids plundered the city and desecrated the tombs of the sultans of the Almohad dynasty. Simple revenge or secret hope of discovering the booty?


Depuis Tinmal, the winding road, punctuated by ksours, offers a fascinating panorama of the Tizi n'Test pass, whose ascent begins with an impressive ledge.

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