Situated in the middle of a valley dominated by a lake, the highland capital of Sakala (population 25,000) is well worth a stop on your journey into the interior. Like Paide, it was built in the 13th century around the castle of the Teutonic Order, the ruins of which rise on Mount Lissimàgi above the blue waters of Lake Viljandi. The region is also called Mulgimaa, because it is the one where the Estonian serfs freed themselves from the Germanic barons the earliest and were able to buy back their land; these rich peasants are called mulgid. Viljandi is a peaceful town, which becomes a holiday resort in summer.

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Eglise Saint-Jean, à Viljandi. Mats TOOMING - Fotolia
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