A poor, tropical bush village about 290 km from the capital. It's the only way to get to Bluefields. Buses leave Managua every day for El Rama, where the road, which is completely paved, stops. You'll have to board a shared boat to reach Bluefields, 2 hours away. There are a few very basic motels and restaurants, but the idea is not to stay there. If you leave Managua at 6 a.m., you can arrive in El Rama at 11 a.m. and leave El Rama at midday, arriving in Bluefields at 2 p.m.. Further on, it's a story of a haunting river that plunges us into sweet reveries.

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