South-west of Sofia, on the other side of the Vitocha massif, Pernik developed from 1891 with the exploitation of the surrounding coal mines. Spearhead of the Bulgarian mining industry, promoted during the socialist era, it fell into obscurity after the end of mining. Pernik is waiting for a new lease on life, which is slow in coming, especially since the site still suffers from fine particle pollution linked to mining. Pernik holds a sad record, designated as the most polluted city in Europe. We visit its ramparts and its medieval fortress. In its heritage also, the church of St. Elijah of Mochino built by the inhabitants of this district in 1839. Although the city does not really attract tourists, it does experience intense activity once a year, on January 13 and 14, during the International Surava Festival. This traditional practice is included in the list of intangible cultural heritage of humanity in Bulgaria.

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