This city, founded in 1618, is home to the Portal de Cevallos, where on 24 August 1821 Don Juan O'Doñoju and Agustín de Iturbide signed the Treaty of Córdoba, the first step towards Mexican independence. It is a small, quiet city (with more than 210,000 inhabitants, according to 2010 figures), with a gentle, nonchalant pace and a historic centre that contains some beautiful buildings, above which the Inmaculada Concepción church has stood guard for almost 400 years. For those who would like to stop here on their way to Veracruz, the city centre has some nice hotels.

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