Monuments to visit Jordan

How to get there. Going down the Cardo maximus, on the left, just before the remains of Hadrian's Gate.

Visit. The ruins of this huge building erected on three levels cover an area of 7,560 sqm. For a long time, archaeologists thought that it was a temple. But constant research suggests that it was more of a huge reception hall. On the other hand, it seems that it was not attached to the royal palace, whose traces are still being sought. The residential area is not large enough to have been a palace and no practical building (kitchen, stables ...) has been found nearby. The remains continue to be called the "great temple" while waiting for something better.

The building was built over several centuries. It is located on a succession of rocky plateaus that the Nabataeans gradually cleared by cutting stones used for other constructions. The first part of the temple was built on the highest platform at the end of the 1st century BC. The 700-seat amphitheatre that partly occupies it was added by the Romans in the 2nd century. It probably served as a municipal assembly.

The temple was enlarged and richly decorated with stucco, frescoes and mosaics around 1950. It is the large platform lined with columns, whose capitals represented Asian elephants. Each of the 536 elephant heads was covered with a thin layer of plaster and no two were identical. It can therefore be assumed that the craftsmen had seen such animals. The pavement and colonnades of the western flank have collapsed. They reveal a double vaulted corridor that supported the structure above. The colonnades are still clearly visible on the east side. The Nabataean king Aretas IV (9 B.C.E. -40 A.D.) had sumptuous gardens laid out on the platform along the east side, punctuated by pools. They were supplied with water by a drainage system running under the colonnades and the central platform. The Romans added baths to the west of the great temple. They are accessed by a stairway on the other side of the collapsed colonnade.

The "great temple" was separated from the street by a propylaeum, a high façade running 55 meters (131 feet) and pierced in its center to allow passage of a monumental staircase leading to the temenos. Small rooms had been set up east of the central door, along the staircase. They were isolated from the street by a door.

Getting there. About 400 meters after the Visitors' Center, on the right side of the main road, before entering the Siq.

Visit. Three monumental boulders carved into the rock seem to stand guard along the path. They are commonly called "blocks of the Djinns", a name left by the Bedouins. They believed that these stone towers served as a place of residence for evil spirits. The blocks are carved on all four sides and pierced with burial chambers. While it is impossible to date them precisely, they may be the oldest tombs in Petra, dating back to the third or second century B.C. There are three more such blocks that you will see as you continue along the path, the last of which is on the right, above the dry riverbed before entering the Siq. The blocks rise between 6 and 8 meters above the ground and their appearance has been modified in later periods.

The entrance to the first monolith is partially obstructed by a deposit of sand and gravel deposited during floods. The foot of the block and its cavity were originally two meters lower. One can still admire the corbelling in triangles which goes around the block on its high part. The base of the boulder to the right of the entrance was cut into two superimposed gullies. They allowed rainwater to flow to the site of Petra or to cisterns that were on the way. A small rock between the Djinns' block and the rock has an opening. Underneath was a cistern.

The second block is positioned on a triple platform that was also cut. The access to the chamber is through an entrance pierced to the east. It contains two tombs. The small platform that tops the block was probably carved at a later period, which would explain the absence of the frieze usually present on Nabatean tombs.

The third block is much more elaborate. Its sides are decorated with pilasters that were once decorated with capitals. The entablature above bears stone chisel marks, which suggest that the traditional corbelling was erased at a later period. During excavations in the 1970s, archaeologists were surprised to find pipe debris in place of bones and personal effects. It is quite possible that this tomb was used as a cistern in the Byzantine period. This would explain why the Bedouins also call these blocks as-Sahrij, which means "cistern" in Arabic.

The street of the Colonnades ends with a monumental gate, delimiting the temenos or "sacred enclosure" from the profane part of the city. This triple-arched gate allowed the passage of carts in its center, and pedestrians on each side. The arches were equipped with wooden doors that were folded back into the niches inside the pillars. Some of the decorative friezes can still be seen coming from the city. The stone blocks were carved with floral or geometric motifs framing portraits of deities.

How to get there. At the beginning of the street of the Colonnades, on the left of the "Great Temple".

Visit. There is not much left of this market which had a very important function in the Nabatean capital. It was the market that ensured the wealth of the capital for several centuries. Petra was an almost unavoidable commercial center, at the crossroads of a dense network of caravan trails. Trading and stalls were held along the street to which the Romans added the columns. The upper terrace was a garden adjacent to the "Great Temple".

If the 'castles of the desert' have their origin in the Roman-Byzantine architecture, fortified or rural, as it existed in Syria before Islam, Qasr Kharranah is singled out by its specificities inherited from Sassanid Iran. It is thought to be one of the earliest known Umayyad monuments, built between 661 and 684, although an inscription above a doorway gives the date 710. Its imposing silhouette stands out in the middle of the desolate plain that surrounds it, quite different from the small Qasr that were built around Azraq. It is thought to have been more of a meeting place for the Bedouins, with no military purpose, as shown by its archways, which were only used for ventilation and ornamentation.

It is square and measures 35 m on each side. Its plan is typical of the Sassanids: a courtyard, surrounded on two levels by rooms arranged in living units. While Syrian castles are often larger, there are a number of buildings in Iraq that are close in scale to the Qasr Kharranah. Once through the entrance gate, one discovers, on either side of the courtyard, stables designed to accommodate camels. A small basin that was used to collect rainwater is located in the middle of the courtyard. Note the beautiful vaulted rooms at the top of the entrance gate and on the second floor, decorated with stucco mouldings and the saw-tooth pattern of the arches, which are found on many utilitarian potteries, both European and Islamic. The 'fleurs de lys' of some of the roundels in the rooms seem more unusual.

The impressive dimensions of the Qasr Mushatta are only found in the Qasr al Tuba, probably built by Al Walid II. This palace, which means "winter" in Arabic, is unfinished, probably because of the murder of Waldi II. Its plan is not organized around a central courtyard, but in three parts. The two unfinished side spaces were designed to house soldiers, servants or courtiers, while the central part housed the Caliph and his family. A mosque, identifiable by its mihrâb, leads to a large courtyard. Four housing units, known as bayt, which can be found in many Umayyad civil buildings, surround the throne room. Although Syrian in plan, they are also reminiscent of Sassanid Iran with their brick vaults, and may have served as the residence of the Caliph's four wives.

South facade.

Mushatta is also known for its rich decoration, especially its southern façade, a large part of which is displayed in the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. It consists of a band bordered by richly carved moldings and divided by a zigzag, perhaps deriving from Arab folk art motifs, with rosettes and vegetal elements, often animated by animal figures, real (felines, birds) or fantastic (griffins, centaurs...). Animals were already present in the ancient cylinder seals and then abundantly used in Christian art. Other motifs, such as birds, seem to be directly inspired by Coptic Egypt, where some artists came from. They rub shoulders with fantastic creatures: centaurs and sphinxes, which come from the classical culture that bathed the whole Mediterranean world before Islam, the Iranian "dragon-peacock" is linked, under the Sassanids, to astrology, to the Zoroastrian religion and to power. Originally a deity of Central Asia, this animal still often appears on medallions and talismans as a simple figure of prosperity. It was also often represented in the Byzantine world, and sometimes even on Romanesque works.

Some of the scrolls are decorated with beaded circles, reminiscent of Sassanian silks. Often copied by the Byzantines, these textiles were exported to Europe, where they were frequently used to wrap relics. The only human beings depicted are grape pickers as they are represented on some Roman mosaics or in the Qasr Amra. The vine with lions recalls the cult of Dionysus in antiquity and in Coptic Egypt. The pine cones of the rosettes would come from the figurative art of Sassanid Iran.

The village of Qasr Al-Hallabat is located not far from the highway, at the gateway to the eastern desert. On your way there, you will pass the ruins of an ancient bathhouse, the Hammam as-Sarah, dating from the Umayyad period. The small limestone building has been well restored and the pipes that carried the water to the baths remain largely intact.

Qasr al-Hallabat is an interesting site from a historical point of view, as it provides a better understanding of the transition from Roman antiquity to the Islamic Middle Ages and of the customs of the people of that time. The site was originally occupied by a Roman fortress, built during the reign of Caracalla around 200 A.D. It was intended to protect the Via Nova Trajana, the new Roman road that crossed the province of Arabia from north to south, linking Bostra (in Syria) to Aqaba, which was conquered in 106 A.D. The fort was part of the Limes of Arabia, and was used as a base for the construction of the new road. This fort was part of the Limes Arabicus, the eastern border of the Roman province of Arabia. In the 4th century, probably during the reign of Diocletian, the garrison was enlarged and transformed into a fort with four towers. This was badly damaged by the earthquake of 551 and abandoned. During the Byzantine period, the Ghassanids took over the site and turned it into a monastery. Then the arrival of the Arabs and the foundation of the Umayyad dynasty gave it a new function: a palace. The Umayyads retained the original plan of the building, but added a rectangular mosque to the exterior. Inside, the palace rooms were retained but the monastic outbuildings were transformed into functional warehouses. The decorations evoking the political or religious identity of their Christian predecessors were removed.

The castle visible today is little more than a pile of stones. However, it is possible (with good eyes) to admire some mosaics and frescoes from the period, inside what remains of the old palace rooms. The large mosaic on the floor of room 11 may be reminiscent of the Byzantine tradition, but it is also reminiscent of the lion and gazelles mosaic at Khirbat al-Majfar. The complex iconography of the mosaic, in which a man appears to be guiding an ostrich, may have had a significance that no archaeologist has been able to determine. In the larger of the two courtyards, there is a well coping with geometrically carved arches. The mosque behind the palace was completely restored between 2002 and 2013. Its delicate entrance porch is particularly noteworthy.

How to get there. The Qasr al-Bint is located at the end of the Rue des Colonnades, after Hadrian's Arch, on the left.

Visit. Mostly in ruins, the Qasr al-Bint is nevertheless the only building still standing in Petra. Its imposing walls, 24 meters high and 27 meters wide, hint at the splendor of the city at its peak. It would have been built during the reign of Aretas IV (9 BC - 40) just like the Treasury. Its full name, Qasr al-Bint Fa'run, means in Arabic "The castle of the Pharaoh's daughter". It is the name chosen by the Bedouins in reference to the so-called pharaoh (and his putative daughter) who had the Treasury built to hide his wealth. It is actually a temple, probably dedicated to Dushara. Excavations around the site have revealed the remains of the oldest foundations of Raqmu (the Nabataean name for Petra) and it is likely that the natural platform on which the Qasr al-Bint was erected was already used as a place of worship

The altar. The temenos includes a huge altar positioned in front of the temple. It consists of a platform of 13.5 x 12 m raised 3 meters above the ground. It was probably a sacrificial altar in the Nabatean period. The Romans added an apsidal temple next to it. Its outer wall was protected by a gallery of columns. Inside, it housed statues of Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus who ruled the Roman Empire between 161 and 169. The inauguration of this temple took place between 165 and 169. It is there that French archaeologists found the head of the marble statue representing Marcus Aurelius.

The temple of Dushara. The building mixes Greco-Roman and Nabatean styles. The façade is a Greek tetrastyle, that is to say 4 columns erected in front of the entrance and supporting a triangular pediment. The wide staircase and the raised podium on which the temple was built are typical of Roman architecture. The decorative elements with geometrical patterns made of stucco were characteristic of the Nabataean style. A monumental staircase that only the priests could use led to the temple. They entered the sanctuary through a monumental door. The small room against the back wall contained a betyl, a stone symbolizing the divine presence. Two halls, on either side of the central courtyard, were perhaps used for ritual banquets. Each had a staircase leading to the upper floor and then to the roof where incense offerings and other religious rituals were held.

The hippodrome is immediately on the left, after passing under Hadrian's Arch. At 245 meters long and 52 meters wide, the racecourse is considered small compared to those of other Roman cities. The long and imposing building along the entrance road to the site of Jerash was used as bleachers. With its 17,000 seats, it could hold the entire population of the city at the height of its development. It was the place of entertainment par excellence, where the gladiatorial combats took place. Spectators came to watch all kinds of performances such as Greco-Roman chariot and horse races or athletic races. The Persian Sassanids even played polo there in the 7th century. It is still used to host performances during the Jerash Festival.

Researchers have not been able to pinpoint the date of construction of the racecourse, but they place it between the 1st and 3rd centuries. During the Byzantine period, the hippodrome was redesigned. A small amphitheatre was built on the north side to host sports jousts, while the southern part was abandoned. Potters settled there and the brick ovens can still be seen. Between the 6th and 8th centuries, the southern part was stripped of its stones, which were used to repair the city walls. The dyers set up their workshops there. Finally, the site was also used as a mass grave during a plague epidemic. The earthquake of 749 rendered the site unusable.

This vast public fountain was dedicated to the nymphs, mythological creatures in the guise of young girls, who were associated with springs, woods and mountains. It dates back to 191 and included a large pool of 600 square metres, two floors with colonnades and alcoves decorated with mosaics and engravings. The lower part was made of marble while the upper part was made of painted plaster. It was surmounted by a dome and water flowed from lions' heads carved into the receptacle. The pink granite basin was added in the Byzantine period.

How to get there. On the hill in front of the "Great Temple", below the Byzantine church.

Visit. The earthquake of 363 destroyed this complex which included a temple and infrastructures related to the practice of worship. The temple takes its name from the capitals adorning its columns, representing winged lions. Excavations undertaken here between 1974 and 2005 have found objects of worship dedicated to the goddess Hayyan, also known as Al-Uzza. This was the most revered female deity in Petra. The temple was probably completed around 25, when Petra was at its peak. It was accessed from the main street by a bridge that spanned the Wadi Musa and entered a propylaeum, a monumental staircase framed by high walls and columns. The sanctuary consisted of a raised platform in the center of which was placed a betylus. The niche was encircled by 12 columns with capitals decorated with winged lions. They served as sacred guards, capable of warding off spells. The columns were positioned so as to form an ambulatory path around the niche. A liwan, or vaulted terrace, was uncovered to the southwest of the temple, with arches once rising 5.75 m above the ground. The rooms uncovered to the north of this terrace probably served as residences for the priests as well as workshops for the making of cult objects. A project to safeguard and develop the site, including the Bedouin, was set up in 2009.

Less than 2 km north of the fortified city, an ancient tower intrigue specialists. It is 15 m high and has neither a door nor a staircase, but a few windows at the top level. Perhaps she was once inhabited by the first Christian monks who found the solitude necessary for their meditation. Today, you won't see more of the building, but we can go there to feel the special atmosphere that emerges from the place. The remains of a church are scattered not far away.

This staircase with terraces links the Cardo maximus to the temple of Artemis. It is a propylea, a vestibule leading to a sanctuary. The pilgrims crossed the river by a bridge that led directly to the impressive door with 3 openings. The 4 columns with acanthus leaf capitals were integrated into the colonnade of the Cardo maximus. The monumental staircase is 30 metres wide. One can imagine the strong impression that the ascent to the temple must have given. The propylaeum ended with a portico opening onto the sanctuary.

Following the main road after the nabatéen theatre, the left remains the small remains of this fountain, probably dating from the th century. At that time, it was abreuvée by the waters of Wadi Musa, routed through the pipes, and probably supplied water to a good part of the city.

Access to it. Continuing along the Siq, just past the Treasury, the gorge, narrow at first, widens and descends toward the center of the ancient city. It leads to the royal tombs (on the right) and to the Street of Colonnades (on the left).

Visit. The street starts on the right of the Treasury. The high walls of pink sandstone open in a V shape to the Petra cirque. They are crossed by about forty tombs, sometimes dug and sculpted on several levels. Some of these tombs are reworked natural caves that were used as troglodytic dwellings during the Assyrian period, i.e. in the 2nd millennium BC.

The Triclinium. Immediately on the right, at the beginning of the Rue des Façades, a large rectangular opening in the rock catches the eye. One can still make out the staircase (forbidden access) that allowed to reach the entrance of what is the largest triclinium in Petra. The exceptionally large 12 x 12 meter chamber was probably used as a reception hall during ceremonies in honor of the deceased of El Khazneh. But this is only a guess.

The collapsed tomb. A little further to the left, one can see the remains of a façade that collapsed in 1847. Partial excavations had revealed an inscription in Greek mentioning a certain Arrianos of Petra "dragged by Hades at the age of 27" as a result of an illness. All that can be seen today is a piece of frieze alternating rhombuses and circles and a pilaster with a Nabataean capital. The tomb dates from after the Nabataean occupation of Petra and would have been carved between the 3rd and^5th centuries.

The Street of Facades. As the Siq widens and forms a recess on the left side, one can admire a line of high carved facades. These tombs, with ornamentation heavily damaged by erosion, date from the late 1st century BC and the first half of the 1st century. These façades were probably covered with a thin layer of painted plaster. The first tomb on the left is representative of the Hegira style found in Mada'in Salih in Saudi Arabia. It is distinguished by a stepped frieze on the upper part, a cornice supported by pilasters that frame a door surmounted by a triangular pediment. This tomb has a unique feature with a funerary chamber installed high up. As you continue, you will notice the tomb cleared from the main rock and carved on 3 sides. The staircase frieze at the top has been replaced by a crenellated crown, which suggests that the tomb has been reworked. Behind this tomb, still on the same side of the rock face, the upper frieze of a tomb can be seen, at ground level. It is not known whether the alluvium brought by the recurrent floods covered the entrance to this tomb or whether it was an unfinished project.

Tomb 825. On the other side of the Siq, on the right as you descend to the center of the ancient city, opposite the café-restaurant. From this tomb, located in the corner, one can clearly see the figurative elements of the "hegra" type tombs. The high frieze with a double staircase of five steps rests on a cornice. An attic separates it from the entablature framed by two pilasters. Only the right pilaster remains, with a Nabataean capital. The one on the left had been embedded in the structure, the rock being too friable at this point to allow it to be carved on the façade. The entrance to the tomb is framed by two pilasters and surmounted by a slightly overhanging triangular pediment. In the doorway, on the right-hand side, one can see a nefesh, a graffiti in the shape of an obelisk, to which two petals and a triangle have been added at the top. The name of the deceased was usually written in the cartouche at the bottom of the nefesh. Five other nefashot were found inside the burial chamber attributing the tomb to the family of Zayd Qawmw bin Yaqum. The tomb has 14 graves.

Tomb of Aneishu. Going around the projecting tomb, still on the right side of the Siq, one comes across a series of caves with barely worked and very eroded facades. Above and set back from these is the tomb of Aneishu. The man was a high dignitary of the Nabataean kingdom, probably a minister of Queen Shuqailat II during the regency period from 70 to 76. An inscription attesting to this was found on the slab that closed the tomb. The 20 x 12 meter façade is typical of the "hegra" style. The Nabatean capitals in the form of half-crowns are clearly visible. The door frame is decorated with pilasters and a pediment resting on a discreet attic. The burial chamber consists of a square room measuring nearly 8 x 8 meters. Loculi were built into the back wall and those on the side. Each of these 11 lodges contained a tomb. A final tomb was dug outside, high up on the right wall. At the bottom right of this tomb, one can see a deep pyramid-shaped cut in the rock. It is possible that a nefesh was placed there. A triclinium was dug into the mountain to the left of the façade. One can still see the tank to the left of the entrance (next to the staircase) where water for ablutions was stored. The back wall of the triclinium was also provided with three loculi used to house tombs.

Your visit to Jordan can begin as soon as you leave the airport. The Qasr Al Qastal is located only 7 kilometers from the runways, on the road to Amman. It is one of the most important Umayyad complexes, built as early as the 8th century, and one of the first as well. Unlike many other desert castles, the Qar Al Qastal was not built on the ruins of a Roman fortress. In addition to the palace, it includes a mosque, a cemetery, baths, private dwellings, the remains of a 400-meter long dam and underground cisterns. Its decoration is also influenced by Roman and Sassanid arts. The complex was built by Caliph Yazid ibn 'Abd Al Malik (r. 720-724) and his son Al Walid (r. 743-744). The palace is very similar to other Umayyad palaces in its layout and the many buildings that surround it.

The qasr. This small palace of 68 sq m is built of limestone. Around a porticoed courtyard are groups of six bayt

(self-contained houses), each consisting of a large room framed by two smaller rooms. The walls were originally decorated with colored mosaics, still visible in places. Numerous niches carved in the rock, with plant decorations, have been discovered. They probably come from the audience room on the second floor, and are reminiscent of the decoration of the living room of the Umayyad palace in the citadel of Amman. The salon included a large room with a triple apse.

The mosque. To the north of the qasr

is a mosque that has been rebuilt and restored more than once since the mid-nineteenth century. Only the lower courses of the western and northern walls belong to the original mosque. At the northwestern end stands a minaret, the oldest preserved minaret of the Umayyad era. A shaped cornice supports Corinthian pilasters.

The Baths. About 400 meters north of the qasr is a structure discovered in 2000: the baths, which were part of a similar complex found at Qasr Amra and the hammam Al Sarakh. The mosaics are splendid, representing in particular a ferocious lion leaping on the back of a huge bull which tries to put it down, and a leopard devouring a gazelle. This type of decoration, inherited from the Roman period, can be found in the baths of Khirbat al-Mafjar in Jericho. The vitality of these animal scenes and the subtle gradations of color place these mosaic pavements in the rank of the most beautiful, and show great technical skill

Going towards the exit of the city by the Decumanus, we arrive in front of the nymphaeum dating from the 2nd century. It is exactly in front of the large western terrace. This sacred fountain supplied water to the whole city and was decorated with marble statues. Today it is very dilapidated, but it can be seen by its 15-metre long basin. Excavations in 1998 revealed a marble block on which was engraved the name of the nymphaeum's donor, a certain Aurelios Diophantes, who was the city's superintendent of police.

When one overlooks the ancient city from the village, it is the first building that one sees. Carved in black basalt and able to accommodate 3,000 people, it is not the most imposing of the theaters of the city, but it is the best preserved. The seats in the stands are not all the same: those near the stage and in the last rows have a lower back and are also more comfortable. These seats of honor were reserved for the local aristocracy or distinguished guests during performances and city councils.

Below the museum, you can see the remains of what was once an amphitheatre. It was located at the entrance to the city, along the Decumanus maximus. It takes some imagination to reconstruct the auditorium, its bays, its galleries, its stage that were leaning against the hill. The theatre was built towards the end of the 1st century BC and could accommodate up to 4,000 spectators. The theatre was probably destroyed by successive earthquakes in the region. Its stones were used to build the houses of the village.

The former residence of the royal family stands on a secluded hill. Built in 1926, it was chosen by Abdullah I to serve as his palace. You will be able to see (from a distance) on the gates, the arms of the Hashemite dynasty. But do not expect to enter even the gardens, visits are prohibited. The Raghadan Palace still has official functions, especially when receiving visiting heads of state or when presenting the credentials of new ambassadors.

At the crossroads of the Decumanus and the Cardo maxiumus, on the left, you will notice an area of ruins corresponding to a residential area. These are Roman administrative buildings that were rehabilitated into residential houses during the Umayyad period, from 600 onwards. Their influence in Gerasa was only minor and they built only one mosque. To the west of the city, the 'House of the Blue' was a splendid house from the Byzantine-Umayyad period, the visible remains of which date mainly from the Arab period.

This mosaic that decorated the hall of a private villa of the sixth century is known since 1902. The owner of the house discovered it while digging foundations. But this discovery was partial and the entire fresco was not uncovered until 1982, when excavations were carried out in the entrance of the nearby Church of the Virgin Mary. It is unique in Jordan and refers to the tragedy of Phaedra. The fresco consists of three panels. The first panel depicts the hunt, of which Artemis was the Greek goddess. The four seasons are represented in the four corners of the panel. The second panel represents Phaedra and Hippolyta, symbolizing guilty passion. The third panel depicts the goddess Aphrodite, seated next to Adonis, wielding a spear while threatening a cherub. In the upper left-hand corner, three women, accompanied by sea monsters, symbolize three cities: Rome, Gregoria and Madaba.

The themes addressed and the characters represented are all taken from the tragedy of Euripides. Hippolytus is the son of Theseus and an Amazon. When the latter dies, Theseus marries Phaedra. Hippolyte devotes a worship to Artemis, and like her, chooses the way of chastity. Aphrodite tries to seduce Hippolyte, who despises her. To take revenge, she casts a spell on Phèdre, who will fall in love with her son-in-law. She makes advances to him, but he rejects her. In despair, she commits suicide, leaving a letter accusing Hippolyte of having tried to seduce her. Thésée banishes his son.

Before passing through the entrance on the south side of the site, you can see the importance of the surrounding wall which served as a rampart against attacks from invaders. It was probably during the reign of the Roman Emperor Commodus (180-192) that the seven gates were ordered to be built. It seems that the wall was transformed and improved by his successors for military purposes.

Following the path that winds along the ruins, you can see a barracks on your left. It is believed to date from Roman times and has the distinction of having a six-storey tower (added in the Byzantine period), surrounded by housing on its sides. The tower has four rectangular openings at the top, each representing an archangel: Gabriel, Michael, Raphael and Uriel. The three-aisled chapel to the east of the barracks dates from the Byzantine period (6th century).

To the left, near the southwest gate, are the ruins of a residential area. The houses are built in all directions. Further on, on the left, you can see a temple, near a cistern. At the beginning of the excavations, archaeologists had identified this large building as being the heritage of the Nabataeans. Views have differed, and it appears to be a temple from the Roman occupation.

A few dozen meters to the north, one can distinguish a vast building with two wings: the praetorium, or Roman headquarters. Enlarged by the Byzantines, it has three entrance doors and, if you go through the one on the left, you will find a small atrium with four columns. The building also contained rooms and a terrace, which unfortunately are no longer visible.

A little further north, one of the most massive monuments in the whole city stands out: the cathedral, built in the 6th century and now in ruins. It was so named because it was much larger than the other churches in the city. Further on are the four arches of what was once a church. Beautiful Byzantine crosses are still visible.

As you go down towards the south-east, behind the cathedral, you will notice some houses, and then a fairly well-preserved reservoir, fed by an aqueduct that carried the rainwater collected in the wadi outside the city. On the other hand, not much remains of the two churches of Claudianos and Julianos (south of the reservoir). It is important to note that one of them had the oldest oratory in the city (345).

How to get there. The hiking trail starts from Qasr al-Bint, on the right, and goes around it from the back, then climbs towards the southeast.

Visit. The High-Place of Sacrifice Trail leads up Wadi Farasa to the High-Place of Sacrifice. It is punctuated by ancient tombs, in a setting as stunning as ever, alternating sun and shade. It takes between 2 hours 30 and 3 hours of visit, with some difficult passages. If you are not afraid of heights, you can return to Wadi Musa at the foot of the amphitheater. If not, you will have to count 2 hours by turning back to the treasure.

The staircase tombs of the jebel al-Madhbah. A dozen tombs of the "hegra" type with the upper attic with double stairs were carved on the northern point of the jebel al-Madhbah. This is where the original path to the High Place of Sacrifice started. Rockslides caused by the earthquake of 363 blocked the access. From here you have a beautiful view of the Royal Tombs.

The collapsed fronton. About 100 m after the path started to go along the mountain. A "hegra" type pediment lies wobbly on the left of the path. To the right, you can see a tomb without a façade in which three loculi have been built.

The Tomb with broken pediment. About 70 m after the collapsed pediment, on the left. This tomb, raised on a podium and preceded by a staircase cut into the rock, is a fine example of a broken pediment. This popular element of Ptolemaic architecture from Alexandria was adopted by the Nabataeans at the expense of the "hegra" style. The pediment rests on a cornice, but it lacks its central point. A window opened above the door, a lintel separating the two, while two vertical slits pierced between the semi-columns let in light. A burial chamber was added to the right of the main tomb.

The Renaissance Tomb. The doorway of this beautiful, slender façade is crowned by a circular pediment, a popular feature of European architecture during the Renaissance period. No entablature or tympanum is inserted in the arch. Instead, the arch is crowned with urns at its lowest and highest points. The lower entablature is traversed by two high semi-columns with Nabatean capitals. A triangular pediment caps the whole, decorated with an urn at each corner. The difference in level in front of the entrance shows that the tomb is unfinished. Fourteen tombs were uncovered during the 2003 excavations, at least twelve of which date from the Nabataean period.

The Soldier's Tomb. At the top of the stairs, after the Renaissance Tomb. This tomb belonged to an imposing complex that required the widening of the canyon by several meters. It was accessed through a hall leading to a peristyle lined with porticoes on three of its sides. This courtyard with columns allowed access to the tomb on one side and to the triclinium on the other. On the right of the tomb stood a two-story building, some of whose rooms were heated. This was the entrance hall to the complex. It was richly decorated with painted plasterwork and patterns carved into the floor. The façade is entirely carved in the rock, except for the three statues inserted in the niches. The central niche housed the representation of the deceased recipient of the tomb, the one who was honored during the celebrations taking place in the triclinium. The statue represents a man covered with a cuirass, as worn by Nabatean soldiers. Although the façade is very eroded, the triglyph-metaphor frieze and the pediment over the entrance are still clearly visible. One can also see two windows on either side of the façade, which provided light for the interior of the tomb. The soldier was probably buried in the central loculus located high up. Excavations have made it possible to date the tomb between 50 and 75. The triclinium is one of the most beautiful in Petra. Three doors allowed to enter the banqueting hall. The benches were carved into the stone, starting from the ground, away from the walls.

The Triclinium of the Garden. After the Tomb of the Soldier, at the top of the steps on the left. The building with its columned porch rests on a stone terrace. Archaeologists thought at first that it was a tomb, then a temple. But in the absence of evidence, they now opt for a dwelling. The building consists of two adjoining rooms, and it is likely that it had a second floor that was accessed from the outside. On the right side of the building is an 8-meter high brick wall. It is one of the largest reservoirs in Petra, possibly connected with the Soldier's Tomb.

The Lion Fountain. This monumental sculpture carved in the rock overhung a basin. The erosion and the damage caused by the earthquakes hardly allow to distinguish the lion. If the body and the 4 legs are well visible, the head turned towards you is hardly noticeable. A pipe whose mouth can be seen above what was the head carried water via an aqueduct from the south of the city.

Access to it. The royal tombs overlook the circus of Wadi Musa. A staircase leads off to the right, after the amphitheater.

Visit. On the western slope of the jebel Al-Khubtha stand the most beautiful and majestic tombs of the ancient city. This is why they have been called "royal tombs". In the Nabatean period, the higher the rank, the larger and more ornate the tomb ordered. However, there is no archaeological evidence or inscription to link a tomb to a particular king. Surveying the ruins of these tombs offers as a reward, once again, splendid views of the Wadi Musa cirque and its encircling jebels. It takes about an hour and a half to walk to the tomb of Sextius Florentinus and back. The Al-Khabtha Trail hikes along the tombs before entering the mountain. For a nice photo of the alignment, you should face it at the end of the day.

The Tomb of the Urn. This tomb with its impressive 26 meter high façade is distinguished by its unique characteristics. It is easily recognizable by the urn (very eroded) that tops its pediment and the two floors of vaulted cells under its esplanade. The use of these rooms is not known. The study of the bricks that make up the structure suggests that the building was built at the same time as the façade was carved. The staircase leading to the tomb passes in front of it and opens onto a vast platform bordered by a portico. Only the columns on the left side remain, those on the right having been destroyed by an earthquake. From the esplanade, the view on the ancient city and the jebels is spectacular. The façade has characteristic elements of the Nabataean style, such as the semi-columns and pilasters breaking the entablature, a cornice (very degraded), a triangular pediment and a doorway with pilasters, a frieze with triglyphs-metopes and a triangular pediment. More unusual are the frieze of the attic made of busts in relief (perhaps of deities) or the three loculi placed high up. The window above the door is an addition of the Byzantines who had transformed this tomb into a church. This allowed light to enter. Just above the central loculus, there is a bas-relief of a reclining man whose head is missing. This is probably the dignitary who had the tomb built. The interior of the tomb houses a large room measuring 19 x 17 meters, the ceiling of which reveals sandstone volutes ranging from white to red. The three niches on the back wall were transformed into apses by the Byzantines. They were originally rectangular. Only two tombs have been discovered here: one on the right and the second in the right niche.

The Silk Tomb. Probably not the most impressive of the royal tombs, nor the best preserved, the Silk Tomb takes its name from the eroded stone that seems to adorn the facade with moire. It is the second tomb after the Tomb of the Urn. This rather simple, and perhaps unfinished, tomb has the attributes of the "hegra" tombs. The façade is covered with semi-columns and pilasters supporting a wide entablature. Above the cornice, the pediment is sculpted with a frieze of two staircases facing each other. On the other hand, the entrance has no particular ornament. It is surmounted by a loculus. The most experienced eyes will notice a tiny bas-relief carved in the slope on the left of the temple, at the height of the pediment's stairs. It depicts a deity standing on a pedestal, perhaps Dushara, the most revered god in Petra. The craftsmen would have carved it during the work on the tomb, in order to ensure divine protection.

The Corinthian Tomb. This tomb located on the right of the unmistakable Palace Tomb is dated between 40 and 70. It is very obviously inspired by Al-Khazneh. The tomb was so named by Leon de Laborde because of the Corinthian style capitals that adorn the semi-columns and pilasters of the façade. Unfortunately, the wide 27-meter façade suffered greatly from erosion and the earthquake of 363. It was "cut" into three parts. The lower part has 8 semi-columns, of which the two framing the main door were crowned by a circular pediment. The middle part, very damaged, was decorated with 8 mini-pilasters sculpted in the alignment of the semi-columns and a broken triangular pediment. The upper part undoubtedly paid tribute to the Treasury, with its central tholos (circular temple) framed by two niches supported by columns with capitals. These two temples served as a base for the broken pediment. The urn topping the tholos is missing. But the most surprising thing here is the asymmetry of the façade. To the left of the main entrance (the gaping hole), three entrances have been pierced between the columns. The two small entrances on the left side of the building were decorated with a pediment, one circular and the other triangular. On the right side, however, the gap between the semi-columns is pierced by windows of different sizes. At the foot of the tomb, four basins carved in the rock can be seen, which were probably used for ablutions.

The Palace Tomb. This tomb impresses by its unusual dimensions and the abundance of its architecture, which is still perceptible despite the ravages of the climate and geological conditions. With its 49 meters wide and 46 meters high, it is one of the most imposing monuments in Petra. The façade is cut horizontally into three segments, the highest part of which is not carved in the rock, but made of bricks resting on vaulted cellars and wooden beams. The tomb included two other segments that collapsed during successive earthquakes. What remains of the facade is punctuated by a set of semi-columns, pilasters, pediments, entablatures and cornices forming a harmonious and impressive whole. The Tomb Palace takes its name from its splendid façade, but also because archaeologists assume that it is at the foot of it that the royal residence of Petra was built. The small hill at the confluence of Wadi Musa and Wadi al-Mataha reveals foundations, artificial earthworks and numerous drains. The Tomb Palace would have been attached directly to the royal quarters, as was the case in the royal cities of the Greek Empire in antiquity.

The lower segment of the Palace Tomb is punctuated by 12 semi-columns. The 4 highest ones support the upper entablature while the other 8 frame the doors surmounted by decorated entablatures and pediments. The pediments of the outer doors are circular, while those of the central doors are triangular. The doors were each preceded by a flight of steps adding majesty to the building. Each of the doors gives access to a burial chamber, the two in the center being connected by a narrow corridor. The second segment is punctuated by 18 semi-columns with capitals in the Ionic style. You will notice that the spacing between the columns is not identical, and that a wider gap has been left between the columns in the center of the façade. Six niches have been dug between some of the columns, without respecting the symmetry. They were probably intended to house memorial plaques. The leftmost opening is in fact a passage that allowed access to the cliff above the tomb and was also equipped with a clever drainage system for rainwater. The third segment also had 18 short pilasters, aligned with those of the lower segment. One can see the masonry bricks that structured the segment and those above, and supported the cut sandstone blocks of the façade. The fourth and fifth segments are only visible on the right side of the building. The fourth entablature, like the third, was not very high and was punctuated by short pilasters. The fifth segment was built backwards. If you stand on the left side of the building, you can see the return of the façade. The architectural ingenuity is revealed halfway up the second entablature (the one with the Ionic capital columns). You can clearly see the vaulted support and the bricks that were used to build the upper floors.

The Tomb of Sextius Florentinus. It is necessary to continue for 250 meters after the Palace Tomb, still following the path of Al-Khubtha which runs along the rock face and up the Wadi al-Mataha. Few tourists venture here and the Tomb of Sextius Florentinus seems quite isolated in this wild mountain area. It is in the light of the end of the day that one can best appreciate its relatively degraded façade. This tomb is the only one that can be dated with certainty and it is also the last to have been built in Petra. An inscription in Latin indicates that this tomb was erected for Titus Aninius Sextius Florentinus by his son Lucius. Sextius Florentinus was the Roman legate of the Arabian Province. He had been appointed in 127, and if the date of his death does not appear in any text, the name of his successor is mentioned from 130. The tomb therefore dates from 129 or 130. Its off-center location is explained by the fact that the Romans had forbidden burials in Petra. Consequently, discretion was the order of the day.

The facade, although badly eroded, is strongly inspired by the Nabataean style, but includes many architectural elements characteristic of ancient Rome. The tomb rests on a podium interrupted by the entrance whose opening descends to the rocky plateau. The lower entablature is punctuated by semi-columns and pilasters with capitals in the Nabataean style. The entrance door is surmounted by a triangular pediment, itself topped by a short pilaster. The columns and pilasters support an attic. The upper entablature is more complex than those of the Nabatean tombs. The cornice opens into a circular pediment decorated with a tympanum, while the entablature is punctuated vertically by four pilasters with Nabataean capitals. The circular pediment is topped by an eagle with outstretched wings similar to the one found on the bas-relief of the Nabataean temple of Khirbet et-Tannur, now exhibited at the Jordan Museum in Amman. The tympanum shows a woman surrounded by vines, which may be a copy of the one in the Treasury. The third entablature supports the triangular pediment of the building, the tympanum of which is badly damaged and cannot be deciphered. It was surmounted by an urn similar to that of the Tomb of the Urn. Inside, 5 loculi were built against the back wall as well as 3 burial chambers in the right part of the tomb.

To get there. After 10 minutes of climbing, at the beginning of the stairs to Ad-Deir (the Monastery), on the left.

Visit. This discreet but elegant triclinium dates back to the middle of the first century. It is easily recognizable by its keyhole door and the two lions sculpted on the bottom of the doorframe. The lions, now very eroded, face each other with their paws raised. The doorway is characteristic of the Ptolemaic style of Alexandria with its triglyph-metaphor frieze. Women's faces are sculpted in the medallions of the metope, which are rather well preserved. They could represent the nymphs of the vine, personalities that can be found on the Treasury or the Tomb of Sextius Florentinus (in the Royal Tombs). The pediment of the door was decorated with three unes, one at each corner. Only the one in the center is still visible. On the left of the door, you will notice a small platform resembling an altar, with a betylus in relief. It was a niche, the upper part of which has collapsed, housing the symbol of the divine presence. Inside the cave, three benches were cut out of the stone to accommodate the participants in the banquets honoring the dead, as well as a niche on the back wall. The triclinium was probably attached to the two tombs on its left. The scarcely decorated façades and the simplicity of the ornaments suggest that it was a small necropolis for a tribe or clan rather than a tomb for a personality.

How to get there. At the beginning of the Rue des Colonnes, under the big tree on the right, just before the bridge that spans the Wadi Musa and allows access to the Byzantine church.

Visit. This large public fountain dates back to the beginning of the 2nd century and to the Roman period. It allowed the inhabitants to get water. There is not much left of it. Only the foundations and the base are still visible today. But you can easily imagine by its dimensions that it must have been imposing. You will have a better idea if you have visited Amman or Jerash before.

How to get there. Bab As-Siq is the portion of Wadi Musa that runs from the Visitors' Center to the entrance of the Siq.

Visit. The temptation is great to go down the Bab As-Siq to reach the Siq and the Treasury as quickly as possible. This wide sandy canyon slopes gently down to the ancient city of Petra, forming a natural bed for an ephemeral river during the rainy season. Its beige sandstone walls have some interesting relics that start with the Djinn Blocks. We recommend that you make stops at the beginning of your visit, as you will be exhausted on your return and much less receptive.

The Snake Tomb. Shortly after the Djinns' Blocks, on the left. Few visitors step over the horse track and dry river bed to see this small tomb. It is hidden inside a large boulder that you can see from the recent staircase built to access the tomb. On the wall of the gallery leading to the entrance, you will notice two nephashot engraved in the stone. They symbolize the spirit of the dead. The tomb is remarkable for its two bas-reliefs. Be careful not to fall into one of the mortuary cavities to admire them on the right wall. The first one represents two snakes attacking a quadruped. They are the guardians of the tombs, charged with repelling evil spirits. The second bas-relief, at the end of the wall, represents a horse carrying a betyl on its back, inspired by the religious processions that took place in the Nabatean period.

The Tomb of the Obelisks. After the Tomb of the Snakes, on the left side of Wadi Musa. Easily recognizable by its "obelisks," this burial complex is unique in Petra. It includes a triclinium on the first floor and a tomb on the upper level. Although very different in style, the two buildings were built in the same period, during the reign of Malichos II (40 - 70), by a certain Abdmanku. As mentioned on the inscription engraved on the rock opposite, the tomb was intended to accommodate the burials of Abdmanku and his descendants until the end of time. The triclinium was a banquet hall, very common in antiquity, with three benches where participants sat. It was used to prepare feasts to honor the dead. The façade of the triclinium has been largely damaged by natural events. Nevertheless, some elements of classical Nabataean architecture can be seen, such as the pilasters and semi-columns topped with horned capitals or the pediments over the entrance and the building. Inside, the room includes the three raised benches that were accessed by steps cut into the corners. The back wall was fitted with two loculi intended to receive the bodies of the deceased. Two tombs were also built outside the triclinium, on the sides. The main tomb, located above the triclinium, is topped by four nephashot, obelisks representing the spirits of the dead. A cartouche inserted between two nephashot seems to represent Abdmanku. The interior of the tomb comprises four tombs, the main one of which is installed under a vast arch cut into the back wall. A circular bench has been carved in the esplanade to the right of the tomb, allowing visitors to perform rituals in honor of the deceased. The basin below is a later addition, perhaps to collect rainwater. A larger cistern was dug to the left of the triclinium, halfway up the hill to the tomb.

Tricliniums of Aslah. On the right bank of Wadi Musa, climb to the plateau just before the bridge that marks the entrance to the Siq. The triclinium complex at Aslah attracts few visitors, as it is hardly visible from the main path. It is, however, the oldest Nabatean work in Petra, dated to 96 BC. A group of rocks was hollowed out to be transformed into tricliniums, the rooms used for banquets to honor the dead. The triclinium of Aslah is the largest of them, located in the center of the small plateau. It is distinguished from the others by its series of 18 votive niches dug into its façade. The rock on the left was the site of a tomb built almost a century later. It probably dates from the end of the first century BC. Inside, each of the walls was provided with a niche. The largest and most elaborate one is on the back wall. At its feet was dug the main tomb. This is preceded by another tomb, which was probably added later. In total, this tomb has 10 graves. They were closed by heavy stone slabs. Excavations carried out between 2010 and 2012 revealed the presence of an ancient brick building erected just in front of the tomb entrance. A few meager pieces of wall can be seen as well as the holes dug for the foundation. The notches in the façade (these are not votive niches) were intended to receive the vaulted arches of the building. Climbing to the top of the rocks of the tricliniums of Aslah, one can see about fifty tombs dug into the ground. It is very likely that these tombs were attached to the triclinium below and were intended to house all the members of the principal's clan. However, none of the tombs stand out from the others and it is not clear which one was intended for the patron.

Access to it. Jebel al-Habis is the small mountain with tombs that overlooks the Qasr al-Bint and the great Roman temple. Take the stairs on the left after the Qasr al-Bint. If you follow the path leading from the back for about 100 meters, and after passing a group of tombs, you will reach another staircase that leads to the top of the mountain.

Visit. At the top of Jebel al-Habis is a sacrificial altar, perched not far from a small triclinium ("dining room"). An ancient Crusader fortress (or rather, the little that remains of it) stands next to it. This fortress, placed on top of a hill, watched over the main communication routes in the area. It was built under the direction of Baldwin I, King of Jerusalem, at the same time as the castles of Shobak and Kerak, both located north of Petra. The castle was equipped with two enclosures protected by rectangular towers. One of them had a keep in its centre. Saladin took possession of it one year after the fall of the holy city of Jerusalem. The 360° view from this place is impressive. Not far from there, towards the north-east, Nabatean steps go down the mountainside. Behind the Qasr al-Bint, at the foot of Al-Habis, you can also see an unfinished tomb and a columbarium. The columbarium contains hundreds of small niches, the use of which remains controversial (some think it was a pigeon house, others that the niches contained funerary urns...).

The fortress of Macheronte was built under the orders of Alexander Jannaeus, Hasmonean king of Judea, around 100 BC, on a conical hill 700 meters above sea level. The vantage point was ideal for spotting possible threats from the east, and the rugged terrain made attacks difficult. This did not prevent general Gabinius, working on behalf of the Roman emperor Pompey, from destroying the citadel. It was rebuilt by Herod the Great around 30 A.D., who added a sumptuous palace within its walls. According to the Jewish historian Flavius Josephus, it was here that St. John the Baptist was taken after his arrest. He remained locked up in the fortress for two years, before being beheaded at Salome's request. John the Baptist had denounced the marriage of King Herod Antipas to his sister-in-law Herodias. According to Jewish law, a man cannot marry his brother's wife while the latter is still alive. Herod Antipas was captivated by the dancing talents of his daughter-in-law Salome (the famous dancer of the 7 veils), and promised to fulfill his most cherished wishes, provided she did the deed for him. Urged on by her revenge-hungry mother, she asked for John the Baptist's head.

During the Jewish Revolt (c. 66-70), whole waves of rebels fleeing the sacking of Jerusalem by the Romans took refuge in Macheronte. According to Pliny the Elder, the fortress was totally impregnable. In 72, however, it fell victim to a siege and was razed to the ground by the Romans, who left only the foundations.

Today, there's nothing impressive about the ruins themselves: a few walls, traces of the foundations and the remains of an ancient bathhouse can barely be seen to the east of the site. It was here that Jordan's oldest mosaic was found, now on display at the Madaba Museum. On the other hand, the site, the shape of the hill topped by the remains of the fortress are well worth a visit, as are the views and the atmosphere, as the place is inhabited by shepherds walking their flocks of goats and sheep. Access is via a path winding along the hillside. Take the 10-15 minute walk to the top, and you'll be rewarded with a superb panorama of the Dead Sea, stretching all the way to Jerusalem on a clear day. Along the way and in the surrounding area, you'll no doubt notice a number of caves: according to legend, it was in one of them that John the Baptist was beheaded, and his head carried to Salome on a platter.

The northern gate, also known as the Arch of Trajan, marked the entrance to the city. It was built in 115 on the orders of the governor Claudius Severus in order to welcome travellers on the newly constructed Trajanic road from Gerasa to Pella. The arch is more than 20 metres high and is punctuated by vaulted niches framed by Corinthian half-columns. The street was paved and lined with columns, giving the place a certain majesty. Few visitors venture here, as this section of the Cardo maximus is never more than a dead end.

It is difficult to reach this castle, the most isolated of the desert qasr. It is located on the border between the governorates of Amman and Ma'an, 85 kilometers south of Azraq. Built in 743 by Caliph Walid II for his sons, it is the southernmost Umayyad castle. Despite its impressive dimensions, the work is unfinished. As with the Qasr Mushatta, the assassination of Walid II aborted the completion of the construction work. Originally, the project included two monumental wings with semi-circular towers projected on the facades. Only the west wing seems to have been completed. The castle may have served as a hunting lodge for the sons of Walid II and certainly as a caravanserai for Bedouins transiting from Saudi Arabia to western Iraq or Syria. Like all desert castles, Qasr al-Tuba is located near a water source. A dry wadi lies nearby, and a dam and wells have been discovered at the site.

The western wing of 140 meters by 72 meters is divided into two squares connected by a narrow corridor, which could be closed in case of need. Access to each of the living areas was through a majestic door. One of these was found and is now on display at the Citadel Archaeological Museum in Amman. The building has a vaulted roof. The whole structure is covered with clay bricks, which provided good protection from the sun and heat, but which are not found on any other qasr.

The Abu Jaber House is one of the finest examples of Ottoman architecture in Jordan in the late 19th century. This beautiful residence with its dozens of arches on the façade stands in the main square of As-Salt and surpasses all others in its finesse and elegance. It contributes greatly to the inscription of the city on the Unesco World Heritage List. It was built in several stages between 1887 and 1905 for a wealthy merchant in the city, Saleh Abu Jaber. The first floor dates from 1887 and housed the family and the store. In 1896, a second floor was added where the family moved in. The first floor was used for storage and as a residence for visiting guests. In 1905, Saleh Abu Jaber had a third floor added. The family gained more height, while the second floor was allocated to guests and the first floor was used for meetings, trading and horse stables. The building is the first in As-Salt to be equipped with a plumbing system. The roof tiles were imported from Marseille. King Abdullah I resided here in 1922. After the death of Abu Jaber, the upper floors were divided into three separate apartments, one for each of his sons. The first floor has retained its commercial vocation with the installation of stalls. On the^first floor, you will notice that the arched windows have colored stained glass. The house of Abu Jaber was transformed into a museum in 2010. It presents the history of the city and its rich heritage.

As you enter the city, just past the southern gate, you can see massive walls on the right, probably parts of a wall built in the early 4th century by the Emperor Diocletian to extend the original rampart. The wall, which surrounded part of the city, was 4.5 km long, but had openings in several places, notably in the extension of the Decumanus or opposite the propylaeum of the Temple of Artemis. The present ruins date mostly from the Byzantine period in the 6th century.

On the road to Iraq al-Amir, as you drive through a gorge full of vegetation, you will notice a nursery and a small café on the side of the road. Looking up at the mountain, what looks like a cave dwelling with its cut-out windows stands out from the rock. It is in fact an old dovecote dating from the Middle Ages, a cave with two chambers. The interior walls are entirely carved with 800 triangular niches that provided a resting place for the pigeons. The cave is reached by a staircase that starts from the nursery.

These two aediculae formed by four arches supported by four pillars mark the crossroads of the Cardo with the Decumanus (perpendicular streets oriented east-west). Built in the 2nd century, the southern tetrapyle seems to have been surmounted by a pyramid and a statue, but only the bases remain. This crossing was redesigned at the end of the 3rd century to form a circular square lined with shops. The northern one was dedicated to Julia Domna, the Syrian wife of Emperor Septimius Severus (193-211). It consisted of four arches topped by a domed roof.

This bridge connected the centre of the city of Gerasa to the eastern baths, located behind the mosque. The bridge was built on the axis of the South Decumanus (the artery that ran through the city from east to west), 74 metres long, and spanned the Chrysorhoas River, now renamed Wadi Jerash. The bridge that can be admired today is a reconstruction of the old one, although some parts of the original remain, including some beautiful arches. Part of the original bridge is covered by the construction of the new city.

The site of the ancient city is punctuated with grated wells leading to underground tunnels. It is an aqueduct of 160 km which was used to supply the city of Gadara with water, of which 94 km are underground. It is the longest aqueduct ever discovered in the Roman Empire, which connected Mount Hermont to Gadara via Abila. Recently, archaeologists have discovered that some of these tunnels were also used to defend the city from possible invaders, allowing the supply of food or the escape in case of siege

At the foot of the stairs leading to Muallaqat Al-Deir, you will notice the remains of an aqueduct dating from Roman times. It is not very impressive, but the portion that is still standing includes an arch that you can walk under. The water flowed over it and was used to irrigate crops. Wadi Sir means "the valley of orchards" and trees still grow in abundance. The galloping development of Amman has changed the landscape. It is likely that in a few years, the city will have caught up with this bucolic corner.

On the road to As-Safawi is this small fort with walls of large black basalt blocks. Located at the top of a hill, it can be spotted from afar and is only accessible by a 4x4 off-road trip. Qasr Aseikhin offers little to see, except a breathtaking view of the surrounding desert plains. No inscriptions have been found on the site, which makes it even more difficult for historians, who nevertheless agree that the fortress was built by the Nabataeans in the first century and then rebuilt by the Romans in the third century, who used it to protect the eastern border of the Empire. The site was later occupied by the Umayyads. But no dating can be established with certainty and archaeologists have not yet taken any real interest in this castle. The problem of bringing fresh water to the site probably explains why this fort did not enjoy the splendor of other castles. The remains of a mosque can still be clearly seen along the eastern wall of the fort. It was accessed through two independent entrances located to the north and east. The foundations of the minaret are also visible. It seems that the mosque has been rebuilt. The large number of stones scattered on the ground suggests that the castle was excavated by looters. Indelicate, they would have even used bulldozers to facilitate their research. Did they find any treasure? History does not say so...

At the top of the city you will find the ruins of an ancient Ayyubid fortress dating from the 13th century. It was probably built in 1220 by King al-Ma'azzam Isa bin Ayoub, the nephew of Saladin. The small barracks that can be seen around it date from 1870. They are reached by an imposing staircase that seems to never end. The interior of the fort is completely gutted and left to nature. Only the external walls remain, which were 6 meters high. There is still a beautiful view of the city.

Wadi Rum is a must-see destination for desert and adventure lovers. The Fares Wadi Rum site offers a variety of activities for a unique experience in this spectacular landscape. Visitors can enjoy jeep tours, camel rides, sandboarding, hiking and even hot-air ballooning. The site also offers overnight stays in a traditional Bedouin camp or cave, providing an authentic desert experience. The camp is located in the protected area of the Valley of the Moon, offering a peaceful and relaxing setting during the day, and a magnificent view of the stars and Milky Way at night. The camp offers traditional Bedouin tents, as well as modern facilities such as shared bathrooms. Meals are prepared with Bedouin specialties, and an Arabic breakfast is served in the morning. Visitors can also personalize their experience by requesting a tailor-made tour.