Stay : Meeting the Daughter of the Baltic
The first week will be spent visiting Helsinki, which is well worth a visit. Then we will explore the surroundings of the capital to discover the impressive nature of Finland, with its endless lakes and forests, dotted with small towns and bucolic villages.
Summary of the stay
Best time to go
15 days
€€€ - Luxury
Detail of the stay : Meeting the Daughter of the Baltic - 15 days
Day 1: First meeting
Steps: Turku, Helsinki, Kuopio
Starting from the clock of the Stockmann department store, the most frequent meeting point of its inhabitants, head towards Aleksanterinkatu, Helsinki's shopping street, with a glance at the statue of the three blacksmiths, opposite Stockmann. Stroll along the Esplanade towards Senaatintori and visit the Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral, Tuomiokirkko. At the top of the church steps, enjoy the splendid view of the centre of the port city, with the main building of the University of Helsinki to your right and the Palace of the Council of State to your left. Opposite you is the statue of Alexander II of Russia, who was also Grand Duke of Finland in the 19th century. Take a stroll down the small street opposite the square: Sofiankatu does not look like much, but this street, paved with stones from three different eras, is full of history: 1800, the end of the 19th century and 1930 have left their mark on the city. Head towards Kauppatori, where the Presidential Palace can be seen in passing. Visit the Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral. Now it's time to eat: the market square is full of stalls where you can try kalakeitto, a creamy salmon and potato soup with dill and pink berries. While enjoying your meal, you can watch the large ferries coming and going between Helsinki and its maritime neighbours such as Tallinn and Stockholm.
Follow the shoreline south and enter Vanha Kauppahalli, the city's oldest market (feel free to try the local produce and a piece of Finnish cheese!). Then walk along the Esplanade, where you can pose in front of Havis Amanda, the capital's iconic statue. In summer, have an ice cream in the small adjacent park. In winter, push the door of Aschan Cafe Jugend, one of Helsinki's classic places, where it's good to try the local pastries (delicious cinnamon pulla -brioche-). Head to Mannerheimintie: you are now allowed to splurge in Helsinki's Galeries Lafayette, Stockmann. For fans of contemporary art, Kiasma is a must: the entrance is on the square with the statue of the Finnish hero. For the others, an option is to visit the Parliament, which is open to the public during certain sessions, an ideal opportunity to improve your Finnish!
End the day with a refreshing beer at Teerenpeli, followed by a good traditional dinner at Zetor and a rock concert at Tavastia. For the more classical types, book a ticket at Finlandia-Talo.
Day 2: Helsinki, between sky and sea
Steps: Helsinki
Depart in the morning for Suomenlinna, the former fortress that protected the city. Have fun exploring the various gates and underground passages of the fortified island or enjoy the sun: you can tell your jealous friends that yes, we tan in the Gulf of Finland too! Lunch break in Suomenlinnan Panimo: try the reindeer sauté served with cranberries and mashed potatoes, a typical Lappish dish. After a lazy afternoon enjoying the sun and a Baltic bath, have a coffee in Valimo, in an old weapons factory converted into a bar. Back on the mainland, head for Torni, Helsinki's (very small) Eiffel Tower, which offers a magnificent view of the city's rooftops. A stone's throw from the tower, you can dine at Kosmos, famous for its fish dishes. End the day with a drink at Sling In or, if you want to party all night, go to Apollo.
Day 3: Helsinki religious and cultural
Steps: Helsinki
Depart from Café Carusel, below the beautiful Kaivopuisto Park, for a breakfast by the sea. Walk to the north of the city and start the Helsinki church tour: from Mikael Agricola Church (the first translator of the Bible into Finnish!) to Vanhakirkko via Johanneskirkko. Take a walk along the main street of Iso-Roobertinkatu, full of pleasant shops and bars. Take a lunch break in one of them, Llamas, where you can sip your drink and enjoy your meal on a swing chair. Mexican atmosphere guaranteed!
Visit the Amos Anderson Museum or theAteneum in the early afternoon. On the way back to the centre, walk past Forum and into Kamppi, a large shopping centre and bus station to other parts of Finland. Take a short break at the Red Café before visiting (outside) the Chapel of Silence. Continue the day with a visit to Temppeliaukion kirkko, then enter Sibelius Park to admire the monument dedicated to the great composer of the romantic era. If you want to extend your visit, take a walk through the Hietaniemi cemetery: Finnish cemeteries are peaceful and restful places to walk around. Take a break at the cute, lilliputian Cafe Regatta.
End the day at the new music centre, Musiikkitalo. On your way out, don't forget to eat at Manala, near Finlandia-talo. And for the insomniacs, continue your nightlife at the St Urho pub.
Day 4: East side
Departure in front of the icebreakers (they keep the sea routes open all winter) of Katajanokka with the pretty names of Kontio, Otso, Voima, Urho and Sisu. Take a tram to the Hakaniemi Market, which has a market day atmosphere. Walk past Ympyrätalo, a round building that is the flagship of Finnish architectural inventiveness, and follow the shoreline to Linnunlaulu (literally "bird song": a nice name for a neighbourhood!), from where there is an excellent view of Töölö Bay. Return to the centre, and visit thechurch of Kallio, a former working-class district. Lunch break at Oluthuone William K.
Take the tram to Puu-Vallila, a village in the city built in the 1910s and famous for its colourful traditional wooden houses. For an afternoon break, choose a table at the Porvoonkadun Baari, which is both a café-bar and an exhibition gallery. For those who have not lost their childlike spirit, the Linnanmäki amusement park and its many old-fashioned rides will awaken lost memories. Special mention should be made of the wooden roller coaster built in the 1950s and the Ferris wheel, a strategic observation point.
In the evening, enjoy pyttipannu (potatoes, sausage, onion, cream and egg), läskisoosi (pork and mash) or silakat (Baltic herring) at the Kolme Kruunua restaurant. For vegetarian gourmets, the ideal alternative is offered at Soi Soi, one of the few vegetarian restaurants in Helsinki.
MARCHÉ EXTERIEUR DE MIKKELI / LINNANMÄKI - PARC D'ATTRACTION / LINNUNLAULU / KALLION KIRKKO - ÉGLISE DE KALLIO / PUU VALLILA
Day 5: Finnish Nature
Steps: Helsinki, Seurasaari
Morning rest by the sea. In summer, many shipping companies offer short cruises along the Helsinki coast. Have your lunch on board. Legend has it that some passengers have already seen Russian submarines! Back on land, take a tram to Seurasaari. In winter, it is even possible for the bravest to walk on the frozen sea, from Hietaniemi beach to Seurasaari island! (before attempting the experiment, make sure in advance that the ice is solid). Once on the island, visit the open-air museum, with a reconstruction of traditional Finnish life from the 19th and early 20th centuries. Coffee break at Café Antin Kaffeliiteri. If the sun is shining, sunbathing on the rocks by the sea.
In the evening, taste the sapas (Suomi-Tapas), the Finnish tapas at the Juuri restaurant. Follow up with a concert at the Kulttuuritehdas Korjaamo Cultural Centre.
Day 6: A tango in Korkeasaari
Steps: Helsinki, Korkeasaari, Vantaa
For this start of the day, the family exit at the Helsinki Zoo on the island of Korkeasaari (perched Island). The zoo was opened in the 1890 s and houses a wide variety of animals, tigers and leopards from snow to lizards and tropical insects. A special bus is chartered from the main station (also possible to take a boat from Kauppatori). Don't forget to take your picnic cart before landing on the island, the easiest and cheapest solution. From the bus terminal, walk along the pleasant island of Mustikkamaa (the land of the bilberries), before taking the bridge linking the island to the mainland. Welcome coffee or tea break at one of the zoo kiosks.
Your intake of animals, you can consider returning to the city centre for a human observation dinner. Take a Russian meal at the Saslik, ideal for carnivores curious to test the bear! Fort of this good meal, a little dance at the Pavi in the outskirts of Vantaa is necessary. After waiting for 40 minutes in a bus taken at Rautatientori, you will finally have the opportunity to experience a real iskelmä and practise your tango!
ZOO DE KORKEASAARI
Day 7: Memories of Helsinki
Steps: Helsinki
Finland is known for its famous Nordic design. Start the day with a visit to the Design Museum, which traces the history of design in Finland and contains a representative palette of the country's creative artists through relevant temporary exhibitions. Take a break at the Aalto Café, located in the Stockmann Academic Bookshop, designed by Finland's most famous architect, Alvar Aalto. Continue this design day with a visit to the Arabia factory, the legendary pottery manufacturer. You will have the opportunity to bring back some souvenirs by visiting the shop, which offers a wide range of Arabia products. Back in the city centre, enjoy lunch at Café Esplanad, before getting lost in the maze of shops selling Marimekko, Pentik, Aarikka, Iittala and Kalevala Koru (jewellery inspired by the motifs of the Kalevala, the great Finnish mythological story).
To end this day in Helsinki in style, dine at the Savoy, a luxury restaurant, of course, but also designed by Aalto! Ask for the vorschmack, Mannerheim's favourite dish (Marshal of Finland and politician, 1967-1951). For a more reasonable budget, book a table at Cella. Finnish atmosphere guaranteed! For those who don't feel like spending the night in bed, have a drink at Roska Helsinki, a bar decorated only with recycled material!
DESIGNMUSEO - MUSÉE DU DESIGN
Day 8: The land of a thousand lakes
Steps: Helsinki
The Finns love their lakes and they don't hesitate to swim in them all year round. In winter, all you have to do is dig a hole in the frozen water (and don't ask yourself too many questions before diving in...). It is easy to understand why they are so keen on their saunas! If you are one of the brave tourists who are conscientious about respecting the tradition of your host country, take a bus next to the central station, in the direction of Kuusijärvi (the spruce lake), forty minutes from Helsinki. Don't forget to bring a picnic (you can find all the ingredients you need at the small supermarket at the station). In Kuusijärvi, the programme will be sporty: swimming in the lake, in summer and winter, and a pleasant sauna. In winter, cross-country skis can be rented for a winter sports session among nature lovers. Grill sausages at one of the local barbecues.
Back in Helsinki, coffee break at Cafe Ursula, overlooking the sea. Interested in Finnish history? Take a detour to the Mannerheim Museum or the National Museum. In the evening, sit down at one of the tables at the Seahorse to taste the house specialty, kateenkorva (sweetbreads). A trip to the KOM theatre, with its alternative past, is located opposite the Seahorse.
Day 9: Nordic sports
Steps: Helsinki
In France, we love football; in Finland, ice hockey is the most popular sport. And it goes without saying that the worst enemy is Sweden! Every year in May, thousands of Finns gather in front of their television sets, at home or in bars, to watch the World Championship and support the national team (No. 1 in the world in 1995 and in 2011, bronze medal at the Winter Olympics in 2014). To feel this unanimous thrill, head to Central Station Square, where you can enjoy ice sports on the ice rink open all winter (ice skates can be rented). For the more adventurous, there is also the Brahe field in Alppiharju, which is covered in ice and maintained for the season. For the summer people, you can plan a Nordic walking session (a Finnish invention), possibly under the supervision of a specialized organization, such as the Suomen latu association.
After the effort, the comfort! Try the Finnish hamburger, made from rye bread, by Hesburger, the biggest Finnish fast-food chain. The afternoon is devoted to a visit to the Olympic Stadium, built especially to host the 1952 Summer Olympics. Don't miss the Sports Museum (Urheilumuseo) and the view from the top of the stadium tower.
Before sitting in the stands for the next ice hockey match in Helsingin jäähalli, take a dip in the Yrjönkatu pool. It's a trip back to the 1920s! Until 2001, swimmers did not hesitate to dive in naked. Since then, swimsuits have been allowed, but Eve's outfit is still common.
After the match, dinner at the Sports Academy restaurant. Amidst the giant screens, you can enjoy grilled meats, pasta and salads - and of course beer!
TAHTO - LE MUSÉE DU SPORT
Day 10: Excursion to Porvoo
Steps: Turku, Tammisaari - Ekenäs
A picturesque little town 40 kilometres east of the capital, founded in 1346, it is one of the oldest towns in Finland, with its old town, charming wooden houses and beautiful riverbanks. Take a boat from Kauppatori or a bus from Kamppi.
Gourmet lunch at Wanha Laamanni. On the menu, reindeer with hazelnuts and Lappish potatoes ( puikulaperunat). For those on a budget, an Italian meal at Rosso. Once you are familiar with the old town, a visit to the Brunberg chocolate factory and its shop is a must (note that you cannot visit the chocolate factory, but you can admire it through the shop's glass window). To perfect the taste of chocolate, have a coffee at Café Fanny.
Back in Helsinki, rush to the sauna. The Kotiharju sauna in the Harju district is one of the most popular public establishments. A grandmother can even wash your back! And as a bonus, the speciality of the place is cupping therapy. After the traditional post-sauna beer, have a gourmet dinner at Pure Bistro. After a good meal, sway to the rocking Tavastia, next to Kamppi.
Day 11: Walk in the archipelago
Day trip by boat to discover the islands of the Helsinki archipelago. Departure fromOtaniemi on board the public boat Aurora for a trip from island to island aroundEspoo , including Iso Vasikkasaari, Stora Herrö, Rövaren and Gåsgrundet. Picnic on one of them, before heading to downtown Helsinki for an afternoon of relaxation and swimming, off Kaivopuisto, on the cute island of Pihlajasaari. Back at the harbour, have a drink at Mattolaituri, before a Nepalese meal at the Mountain, near Töölö Bay.
Day 12: Finnish shopping lesson
Steps: Helsinki
Because of its climate, Finland is a paradise for shopping and large shopping centres. To the east of Helsinki, accessible by metro, is Itäkeskus (Central East), with its 200,000m2 and over 300 shops, making it the largest shopping centre in Scandinavia. After this shopping spree, try the local perchat Suola ja Pippuri ("Salt and Pepper", a nice name for a restaurant!). Afternoon at the Sea Life centre in Linnanmäki. In its fifty giant aquariums, more than 3,000 fish of over 100 different species are on display. Not to be missed: the section devoted to the Baltic Sea and the lakes of Finland.
If you still have some time left, go and see a film at Kino Engel, a small cinema in Sofiankatu. Legend has it that you can even sip a glass of wine in front of an auteur film. Dinner in Kaarna, where you can taste typical dishes, including savusiika (whitefish) or muikut (northern salmon).
Day 13: Excursion to Fiskars
Steps: Fiskars
Accessible by bus or car, the pretty village of Fiskars, about a hundred kilometres from Helsinki, offers its bucolic colours to passers-by who come to visit this place full of history. Created in 1649, this working class village only housed a few houses of workers living close to their place of work: the period blast furnaces of the Fiskars factory (the famous manufacturer of the orange scissors present in every kitchen). Today, the village has been reconverted into a craft city, where craftsmen and artists reinvest the old wooden and brick houses to exhibit their creations in charming little workshops. Take advantage of this day to walk or cycle along the paths that wind between old mills, forges, workshop-shops, museums and pleasant cafés and restaurants. On the way back, dinner in town at the Ateljé Finne.
Day 14: Sporting and green interlude
Steps: Nuuksio
In winter, it is possible to enjoy downhill skiing near Helsinki. The Serena water park in Espoo and its ski centre has a small hill dedicated to this purpose (the Halti hill in Lapland is the highest point in Finland: its altitude of 1,365 metres does not, however, allow the various ski resorts to compete with the Alps...). Near the hill, Serena is the largest water park in Northern Europe and is open all year round. Enjoy its open-air pools and multiple slides. Swimming is known to give you an appetite: eat at the Granina!
In the afternoon, head to Nuuksio, 30 kilometres from the heart of Helsinki. On the agenda is a hike along one of the three trails through the splendid national park, discovering the rich flora and fauna. In the evening, consider a home-cooked dinner on one of the lawns of Kaivopuisto, a place to meet the locals who do not hesitate to bring their glasses of champagne for a refined picnic!
PARC AQUATIQUE D'ESPOO : SERENA
Day 15: It's just one goodbye.
Last day devoted to idleness, after a complete stay. In the programme: A lot of coffee (in the most beautiful cafés in the city, on the Esplanade), a few hours of sleep, and a simple and comforting lunch: go to Kotipizza, the largest Finnish Pizza Chain. The speciality of the house? The Berlusconi pizza, topped with smoked reindeer meat and chanterelles (small national revenge on the one who insulted their kitchen...), rewarded by the America's Plate 2008 award of the best pizza in the world (yes, yes)! Early afternoon visit of the recently renovated Botanique botanical Garden. The main greenhouses contain more than 900 species of plants, and in summer the garden gives a collection of over 2 800 flowers. Break at Café Cardemumma where you can expect delicious smoothies, homemade pastries and ice cream. To finish this stay in beauty, dine in Olo, which serves a starry Nordic cuisine. Last night getaway on the streets of Helsinki, to get rid of its atmosphere in any other way. Then you only have to make beautiful Nordic dreams...
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