It's true that Antofagasta doesn't enjoy a very good reputation among travellers. This rundown port, sung by the Chilean poet Andrés Sabella, is not distinguished by its remarkable architecture. Its entire history is marked by mining activity. Recent town-planning projects are trying to restore its image, but both the famous artificial beach and the Paseo del Mar, a sort of local croisette, are not always well maintained... If nothing else, you can appreciate its harbour atmosphere, and history buffs will be able to unearth, in the footsteps of saltpetre, a vital part of the formation of the Chilean state.

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Mano del Desierto. Ksenia Ragozina / Shutterstock.com

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