South of Ras Al-Jinz, we reach the Wahhabi village of Al-Ashkharah, stronghold of the Bani Bu Ali tribe. This village, where you can still admire some beautiful old doors, is largely empty during the summer, when its inhabitants leave for 3 to 4 months to harvest dates in the Bilad Bani Bu Ali oasis. It's from Al-Ashkharah that Oman's true "great south" begins, with this extraordinary new expressway between sea and desert that serves the pier for Masirah Island. The road, which is almost completely uncrowded, is ideal for a few days of easy adventure and bivouac, far from the beaten track...

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