Monuments to visit Madagascar

Of the fourteen doors of entry in reality 7 old and 7 new erected by Andrianampoinimerina, only one remains, pink ochre on a side, vermilion of the other, earth of Sienna in the center. 16 million egg whites were necessary to build the external wall: they were used like lime!

The royal hut of Andrianampoinimerina (Mahandrihono) resembles that of his residence in Antananarivo. One will notice the steps on the three rosewood pillars: the king used to hide at the top when visitors entered his house; he let his wife talk to them, in order to better judge them, then threw a stone if he agreed to receive them himself. Then the royal wife would let the guests out and the king could quietly go back downstairs! Another important precision: the gracious sovereign was only 1,45 m tall!

The house of Ranavalona III is charming with its lacquered balusters and its balconies. Ask the guide to open the drawers of the furniture of the queen's room and to translate the inscriptions. He will tell you: "Ranavalona, give me a job! Ranavalona, give me a beautiful husband! Ranavalona, give me a long life! Ranavalona, give me fortune! Ranavalona, give me a bride! Ranavalona, give me a child..." These wishes are addressed to the spirit of the queen who can help the living.

Next to the queen's room, a belvedere, surrounded by bay windows, overlooks the panorama. This is the Council of Ministers room. The government met there around Ranavalona.

The life of the city was wisely organized. All the social groups were represented there. Each clan, which had a limited and defined number of huts, was in charge of a district and had to maintain it; similarly, each clan had rice fields and had to produce a minimum quantity of rice. All the inhabitants participated in the cleaning of the city. The forest was preserved because it was a source of important wealth (especially for construction): it was forbidden to cut wood, and even to collect it. Alcohol was not allowed, hemp was forbidden, as well as fady products.

Walk around the rova enclosure, walk around the fortifications, find the stone of sacrifices(vatomasina), consecrated by king Andriantsimitoviaminandriandehibe (phew!).

Ambohimanga is a place of serenity. Numerous other archaeological vestiges are scattered on the hill: external royal tombs(Mahazaza), royal fountain, hill of Mangabe (where rests the tomb of the diviner/astrologer)...

The history here was eventful, as evidenced by the episode of the exhumation of the royal tombs by Gallieni, in March 1897. The general had decided to remove the symbols of Merina sovereignty, and thus to transfer the royal remains from Ambohimanga to Antananarivo, barely a month after having exiled Queen Ranavalona III. An inconceivable sacrilege. The bodies were transferred to the Palace of the Kings, where they joined that of Radama ^I, who was already resting there. Before a century later, on December 6, 1995, a new desecration (probably just as criminal) further sealed the strange fate of these sovereign relics.

There are a few fady in Ambohimanga: snails, pigs, onions, corn, squash... but also, as the tradition says... Europeans! Don't worry, you will be well received anyway.

The most famous meeting place during the colonial era, this palace with its classical architecture is now a relaxing place, worth a visit for a drink in the evening, enjoying the pool or the beautiful park. The whole place is well kept, waiting perhaps one day for some renovation work. Historically, the Hotel des Thermes was the residence of King Mohammed V and his family in 1954, when he was in exile. The royal family spent nearly two years there, returning to their country in 1955, a few months before Morocco's independence.

Surrounded by a luxuriant forest, rises a circular building of impressive size. In the ^19th century, the manda of Mahavelona housed the garrison of the royal army and the residence of the merina governor. This hill-fortress was built on the initiative of King Radama ^I with the help of England from 1822. It was the central point of the strategic device composed of 5 citadels in charge of defending the east coast against invasion attempts. The surrounding wall, 6 m high and 70 m in circumference, built with a mixture of coral powder and stones bound with egg white as cement, is pierced with loopholes where cannons acquired at the beginning of the ^19th century and artillery pieces manufactured in Mantasoa remain. In the center of the circle (also a symbol of sacred harmony according to Malagasy cosmogony and astrology), the officers' houses, the barracks and the arsenal were built. The manda, where 25,000 soldiers of the Malagasy royal army were stationed, played an important role when the Merina soldiers and their allies repelled the first attempts at invasion and the French attacks, the first signs of colonial aggression at the end of the ^19th century. The fort was looted during the colonial period: its cannons can be found in collectors' shops, and it was partly destroyed: its materials were used in 1950 for the construction of the road that was to become the RN 5. From the top of the walls, from the covered way, the view is magnificent.

The climb up to the Rova from the town center is a pleasant stroll. You first pass the Andohalo Palace, where sovereigns were once crowned (now a public garden and sports ground), then the house of Jean Laborde (whose original wooden structure collapsed in the early 1980s).

Towards the end of Rue Ravelojaona, a large building overlooks the town: the Prime Minister's Palace. This was the residence of the powerful "Andafiavaratra" family of commoners. It was from here that Rainilaiarivony (son of Rainiharo), husband of three successive queens, ruled until Antananarivo was occupied by the French army. In 1960, the building became the headquarters of the Presidency of the Republic, but was destroyed by fire in 1976. Today, it's a small historical museum, where you can discover objects saved from the Rova fire in 1995.

Let's digress for a moment: on the night of November 6, 1995, a fire of unknown origin destroyed a group of buildings in the Cité Royale, the Rova d'Antananarivo. This destruction was experienced by the population as a moral and psychological trauma. This act was an attack on the symbols of history and the memory of the ancestors - whose tombs were burned - who tried to unite the country. It is said that many treasures were saved from the disaster... some even claim that they had been taken out beforehand! But to say that this crime was politically motivated... In any case, German documentalist Erika Rothgangel possesses the complete photographs of the decimated collection of paintings, and these were then digitized, in order to more or less reconstitute the originals.

From the pediment of the Prime Minister's Palace, the panorama of the city is already remarkable. Hibiscus, bougainvillea, jacarandas: here, the city becomes a city of flowers. Porticoes, balusters, colonnades, varangues... Although the shapes of the houses vary, red is the dominant color.
After the Prime Minister's palace, you pass an old post office in ochre-red, then climb the last few metres to the Rova. After a detour to the Rova, you may want to consider the English-style Ambohipotsy temple, built in the 1860s. Shortly afterwards, the belvedere offers a superb view over the entire Betsimitaratra plain, where Tana lies.

The Queen's palace is in fact a real complex, comprising a necropolis, 5 monumental palaces and 9 tombs. First erected by Andrianjaka in 1610, it housed 22 wooden buildings during the reign of Andrianampoinimerina. Later, successive monarchs strove to embellish it. The only entrance door (surmounted by a bronze eagle sent by Napoleon III to Ranavolana ^I) was designed by James Cameron in 1865.

Palais de la Reine or Manjakamiadana ("where it is pleasant to reign"), Tana's most famous monument. It was built in 1867 by Ranavalona II on top of the original wooden palace, designed by Jean Laborde in 1839 (structure supported by a 39 m-long central rosewood pillar, which 10,000 slaves would have transported from the east coast). It was painted white, with the balustrades in red and black. Around 1870, James Cameron added 4 Italian-style corner towers.

Tranovola ("silver house"). Built entirely of wood by Louis Gro in 1820 on several floors with verandas, it was the residence of Radama ^I. Jean Laborde restored it in 1845.

Manampisoa ("extra beauty"). Built for Rasoherina by English architect William Pool in 1867. Painted red and black, this series of corridors, balustrades, balconies and terraces dominates the Imerina. In the ^20th century, it was transformed into a museum for the royal family.

Besakana ("which preserves well"). Built in 1800 for Andrianampoinimerina, it was used to crown monarchs and display their mortal remains.

Mahitsielafanjaka ("he who has integrity reigns long"). Andrianampoinimerina's royal hut (with its rosewood walls and thatched roof), reminiscent of his Ambohimanga residence, was a rational, Spartan universe, in the image of this king who, concerned with administration, management and unification, had nothing but contempt for luxury and pomp. The hut contained the king's personal belongings, his bed and the beds of his twelve wives. This building has now been rebuilt.

Tranofitomiandalana ("Seven Aligned Houses"). Seven of the ten kings who ruled Tana before Andrianampoinimerina are buried here. The other three were dethroned, struck down by leprosy and overthrown.

Queen's Tomb. Wooden building erected by James Cameron in 1868 for the eternal resting place of Rasoherina.

Tomb of the Kings. Stone edifice built by Louis Gros for Radama ^I's eternal resting place. Gallieni transferred the ashes of Andrianampoinimerina and Radama II here in 1897.

At the time of our visit, in December 2022, the Rova was under construction, with no scheduled reopening date. We don't know whether the above description will be 100% accurate once the work is completed. But even if the Rova hasn't reopened, the walk around the site is well worth the detour. We recommend a visit with one of the local guides you'll find in front of the palace. Don't hesitate to ask for Sitraka - we've tried and tested his services!

The Royal Palace is the last residence of the Betsileo king of the north, Mpanalina II, defeated by the Merina troops of Radama ^I in 1811. When it was active, it was surrounded by several circular pits and included the house of the sovereign (Tranovola), that of the advisors (Tandapa), a sort of common agora (Kianja) and two tombs. Today, the ruins have nothing exceptional, but the walk is nice through rice fields and potato fields.

There are traditional betsimisarakas dances, performances of songs and theatre, but also discover groups of local varieties. The program is posted on site.

This fort, or rather its ruins, overlooks the Bay of Farodofay (beautiful panorama). The entrance gate dates back to 1643; even today, it is through here that the soldiers access Camp Flacourt. We take the opportunity to visit its museum which recalls the habits and customs and the history of the Antanosy people and its tumultuous relations with Europe. Through photos, maps, we have a good overview of the colonial history of the city. At the beginning of the visit, the remains of a fortress, erected by the governor of the city between 1768 and 1770 and restored in 1950.

Near the temple stands the house of the tromba, a wooden building where the objects of worship are kept. It is possible to have access to it (with the agreement of the authorities).

You can ask for an audience with the king's descendant. If he agrees to receive you, you will have to go barefoot, put on a lambaoany, make offerings - only then will you be admitted into the sacred enclosure where the relics of the kings are kept, the last one having died in 1904. The bathing of the royal relics takes place at irregular intervals, depending on the oracles.

Belo is the place where these two-masted schooners (often called "dhows") were built, marvels of old rigs of Breton origin, whose skeletons dot the village. Doroté knows all about the construction of these unique ships, which are still made by hand today. He will accompany you to a shipyard where you can observe the craftsmen at work. Depending on the size of the schooner, it will take between 2 and 8 years of work! To be discovered!

The main street ("rue des Arcades"), in the center of the city, is ideal for strolling. It is lined with arcades under which are sheltered many shops. There is the largest bookstore in the city, jewelry stores, hardware stores, and a pharmacy. This street leads to a square where a very imposing tamarind tree is enthroned, facing the big market and the rickshaw station.

In the city center, very close to the market, the ^25th Anniversary Square of the OAU is a large crossroads where the arteries leading to the different neighborhoods converge. Nearby, one can see a stele commemorating the 1947 insurrection for independence.

Tulear is specialized in stone and shells, what to bring back beautiful souvenirs. We will then go to the shellfish market, where we will find shellfish from all over the Indian Ocean. Be careful: some of them are forbidden to be exported.

Colonial buildings. Near the university museum, on the rue de France, along the waterfront and in the streets that converge towards the market place, you can admire beautiful buildings from the colonial period.

Mosques. Toliara has several mosques. The most beautiful one is located close to the market (by turning right after the Independence Square). Its two white minarets rise up into an azure sky. On Fridays, the Muslim community's attendance is at its peak.

The Garden of the sea. The sea front has been completely redeveloped, with about fifty kiosks selling handicrafts and an exhibition area.

A few kilometers from the entrance of Ranomafana, coming from Fianarantsoa, a viewpoint allows to observe the shades of the forest and a beautiful waterfall. In the village center, the Kianjamainto reception post ("Interpretation Center") offers a good introduction to the history, culture, fauna and flora of the region (if it is open during your visit). At 2 km from the exit of Ranomafana, in the direction of Mananjary or Manakara, an arboretum presents some beautiful floral specimens. Not to be confused with the botanical garden of Kelilalina, further away.

Fortified by the region's various military occupants, this rock served as an observation post. Now a peaceful lookout point, it offers a landscape of great beauty: Cap Diego, Cap d'Ambre, Mozambique Channel, Montagne d'Ambre, Montagne des Français... The trail ends at Ampasindava (Baie du Courrier), with its beautiful beach. The bay is so named because, before Diego was founded, it was here that boats docked to bring in mail and parcels. Since 2017, a camp has been set up right on the sand.

The Doany is an important site in the Sakalava cult of Boina, where the relics of kings Andriamandrosoarivo, Andriamisara, Andrianamboniarivo and Andriamihanina are preserved. These relics - moustaches, fingernails and incisors - were richly decorated by Arab goldsmiths. The hut in which they are kept contains cult objects and belongings that once belonged to the sovereigns. People come to pray before the royal reliquary, especially on Mondays and Fridays, the other days being fady. Having been moved three times after the reign of the Sakalava kings, the monument - a hut - is currently located in Tsaramandroso. It can be reached by turning right onto the road leading to the regional university center. Entrance to the Zomba Be (sacred royal enclosure) is subject to rites and prohibitions that are not displayed at the entrance: bare feet, no glasses, braided hair for women (a lady from the village will take care of this), being dressed in a lamba (kitamby for men, kisaly for women). It is highly recommended to bring rum and candles (one box). The donation for the keeper is at your discretion (around 2,000 to 4,000 Ar). The keeper will invite you into his hut for a few words of welcome and to undress and dress. It's a good idea to be accompanied by a guide familiar with the local customs. Once a year, in July, the royal relics are bathed in a grandiose ceremony attended by thousands of people in a festive, musical atmosphere.

Boulevard Joffre is the city's main commercial center. Here you'll find banks and exchange offices, car rentals, travel agencies, pharmacies, grocery stores... all in a concentrated area. To find your way around, ask a rickshaw or cab to drop you off in front of the Hôtel Joffre or the Bazar-Bé, and then set off on foot. The seafront promenade runs along a beautiful beach. Locals gather here from 3pm to spend the evening by the sea. But be warned: "Swimming prohibited: sharks". Between pointe Asti and pointe Tanio, boulevard Ratsimilaho, facing the port and the open ocean, offers a beautiful panorama. As you walk to the port, you can see the pretty bay of Toamasina. Old colonial-style Creole buildings line the palm-fringed waterfront, their ochre facades showing the passage of time.

Continuing along the promenade, you pass the Great Mosque and arrive at the port, built by a Franco-German consortium in 1934. Further south, along boulevard Ivondro, the beach is not very hospitable, as the slaughterhouses attract many sharks. For swimming, head further north. In the town center, the large market (Bazar-Bé) is very lively. Here you can stock up on fruit, vanilla sticks, powder and syrup, cloves and cinnamon. Regional handicrafts are well represented, with woven ravinala basketry, fabrics, lamba... Along boulevard Ratsimilaho and rue du Commerce, the narrow streets lining the port are home to warehouses. The scent of vanilla mingles with that of cloves. If you're invited to visit the warehouses in November and December, you'll be able to watch Madagascar lychees being packed before they leave for Europe. Nearby, Place Bien Aimé is known as Place des Banians: planted in the 1920s, they are indeed spectacular! This was the historic heart of Tamatave, where the village of Ampasimazava was located. It is said that ancestors used to worship here. Not far from the station, the Bazar Kely is a fairly large market. Here, asphalt soon gives way to sandy tracks. The popular districts begin. Avenue de l'Indépendance, the city's widest street, is home to the region's territorial administrations. Open-air balls are frequently held near the town hall. At its maritime end, Avenue de l'Indépendance joins Boulevard Ratsimilaho.

Fort Dauphin exudes a peaceful, pleasant atmosphere, and is a great place to take a stroll. In the center, a pleasant stroll takes you along the Rue Circulaire and the Corniche, with a well-deserved break at Libanona beach. Rue Circulaire runs alongside the false Bay of Galions and Faux-Cap beach. Dolphins can sometimes be seen offshore. The locality is home to some fine examples of colonial architecture; one of the most beautiful is the Kaleta family's large white house, surrounded by greenery not far from the Hôtel Le Dauphin. Around the post office, the ochre buildings, colonnades and architectural testimonies of the past are worth a long stroll through the town. A visit to the fishermen's quarter (Ampotatra) is recommended. If you set off on foot towards the circular road overlooking Libanona beach, take time to explore the Indo-Pakistani community quarter. Rising out of the vegetation, the new mosque with its graceful domes bears witness to the important role played by this community in the local economy.

The most beautiful and safest beach is Libanona, where the sunset is magnificent (climb up to the belvedere overlooking the beach on the left, at the Lavasoa bungalows). You can also go as far as Lokaro, where the sea is calmer. L'Anse Monseigneur and the site of the old port: here you can observe fishermen and rocky flats (you can snorkel to see corals, black sea urchins, moray eels and jumping gobies).

The big market of Ambatolampy is one of those big markets so typical of the Highlands, on Thursdays, and to a lesser extent on Mondays. To get there, you have to turn left on the road just after the zebu market, coming from Antananarivo. You can get a haircut in the open air for a very low price and buy regional products: rabbits, poultry, ducks, river fish, superb fruits and vegetables... The visit of the zebu market, even if it is small, is also an interesting experience in itself!

Approximately 7 km from Toamasina was the largest merina in the region. The only remains are vestiges. The cannon defended the garrison against the maritime attacks of the French and British navies. The hill surrounded by marshes and its surroundings is a fascinating landscape.

Along the roads and tracks that drive north, east or west, there will be a lot of funeral monuments. The oldest are recognizable with the sacred statues of carved wood. The most recent are surmounted by stone obelisks. Elsewhere, we will find levées and accumulations of zébus skulls. Here, too, the dead are not forgotten.

These funeral works have only a role as a mausoleum (the tombs are elsewhere). However, it is necessary to visit these monuments accompanied by Malagasy friends: the villagers are very suspicious. Every year, sacred statues are sawn in hundreds and disappear… these flights would be due not to tourists, but to dealers in antiquities of the world art market.

At the entrance to the city, a large metal suspension bridge spans the river. This imposing structure in the style of Eiffel's constructions is surrounded by an abundant vegetation. The region produces vanilla, nutmeg, cloves, pepper, etc. You can watch the loading of cargo for export. Buried in the bougainvilleas, the colonial style buildings of the trading posts are not lacking in charm. It is not recommended to swim here because of the strong currents.