Things to see and do Morondava

In recent years, a cyclone has added sand to Nosy Kely's beach, so that it is now larger than it used to be. Regularly cleaned, it's an inviting place to relax. Apart from Nosy Kely, Morondava's beaches are not very suitable for bathing, as they are not always clean. For a seaside getaway, or to discover the superb seabed by diving or snorkeling, it's best to head for the nearby beaches of Betania, Bosy, Ankevo or Kimony (where you can stay at the Kimony Resort).

Every Wednesday, in Analaiva (25 kilometers from Morondava), the largest zebu market in the region is held. It is spectacular. To get there, you have to go by sea, then follow the seasonal coastal track on land in the direction of Manja (only in the dry season). This market is an opportunity to find yourself in the midst of zebu breeders and their animals, a whole other world, which allows you to realize the importance of these animals for the population, even if in recent years this culture has been heckled by the theft of zebus practiced en masse.

3 circuits have been set up in this 72,000-hectare area, located on the shores of the Mozambique Channel between Morondava and Belo-sur-Mer. Dense dry forests and thorny thickets, bays, beaches, coastal dunes and heavenly islets... You'll also see the Le Boenga or Lepilemur ruficaudatus, an endemic nocturnal lemur. Agnolinoly (2 km by pirogue, 1 hr. visit); Ambondro-Firave (3 km trekking, 2 hrs. visit); Maetsakaloe (4 km trekking, 2 hrs. visit).

The Association des Guides Agréés de Morondava is THE structure to help you organize your visit to Morondava and the entire Menabe region. The association federates 30 approved local guides. These guides can organize all the logistics (hotel, 4x4 rental, guiding) for your visits anywhere in the region, including the Tsingy and Kivalo. They'll help you travel with complete peace of mind. We warmly recommend the services of Naina, the association's president, or Gera, a particularly gifted and professional guide. To be followed with eyes closed!

Let's take a stroll through Morondava's neighborhoods. Let's start with Anstakoameloky, where we find the airport. The name comes from an amusing anecdote: a European manoeuvred his light aircraft badly on landing, and the wings caught on a tree (sakoa). The disgruntled tree (in the land of spirits, imagination is king) rebelled against the cursed aircraft: hence the name, which means "angry tree"! Further on, we enter the Tsimavao Be and Tsimavao Kely districts. They are located at the entrance to the town itself. Namahora Nord, the next suburb, is an important economic center, home to the town's second-largest market. Next, we reach Namahora Sud, Ankisirasira and Tanambao, right in the middle of the mangrove swamp (which turns into an island at high tide). From here, the trail heads south towards Belo-sur-Mer.

Here we are at the entrance to the town center. To the north is Labatoara (the slaughterhouse has been moved to Ambalanomby, west of the dike linking the town center to Grande Terre), and to the south is Andakabe. From here, we reach Sanfily. In the center, Bazary Be is the liveliest district: the main thoroughfare runs through it, where you'll find the main market and most of the shops. The market is well worth a visit: soubiques, hats, red and gold lambaony, fruit galore... You'll breathe in the atmosphere of Mada's big markets, with the diverse scents of spices, fruit and dried fish! Nearby, in front of the mosque, there's an atmosphere of expectation. Here you'll find the former Air Madagascar agency, the courthouse and the post office, all buildings whose architecture, peeling painted woods and faded ochres evoke the world of Conrad's Lord Jim.

To get to Nosy Kely, you have to continue further south. This is where tourism has made its home. By all appearances, the sea is eroding the coastline, retreating several hundred meters per decade! That's why breakwaters were built here, but have now fallen into disrepair. Alas, no restoration project is now planned to stem the inexorable rise in water levels. The dhow port is located in the Hellot canal, an arm of the sea through which the village of Betania can also be reached by taxi-pirogue. This little village on the other side of the mouth of the river makes a lovely stroll at dawn, when the colors and lights spread their softness over the landscape and the atmosphere of early morning.

This small seaside village, adjacent to Morondava, was so named by pious Norwegian settlers in the ^19th century. It's a pleasant getaway by pirogue - you can also visit a dhow-building site along the way. The village is home to 5,000 people, all of them Sakalava or Vezo. You can spend the night at the Hôtel du Piroguier (a dozen rudimentary bungalows). It's a shame the village is so dirty, but it's still a nice half-day trip, especially if you can't make it to Mangily or Belo-sur-Mer during your trip.