Between Tsihombe and Ambovombe, the track alternates between sand and laterite in a long orange-and-gold line that threads through the pale green of the bush. Ambovombe seems like a big town when you reach the end of this journey through the bush. This is the beginning of the tarmac (very broken and not getting any better with time!), which seems (at first) so restful after days spent driving on laterite, "corrugated iron" and "stairs". In the area, you can visit the nature reserve where the endogenous Neodypsis decary palm is preserved. The administrative capital of the region and a major road junction, Ambovombe is home to one of Madagascar's most "rock'n'roll" roads: the RN 13 from Ihosy, in very, very poor condition. Bandits may also be on the loose, and in any case, it's best to travel here with a guide who knows the area well. The bus and bush cab station is the hub of the town, surrounded by numerous bars, restaurants and gargotes. Getting to Fort-Dauphin is no problem, as there are plenty of departures. The road, made of broken tar, is in a sorry state, and arrival at the great port of south-east Madagascar seems interminable! On Monday, market day, the town is extremely lively, making it the ideal place to stay. Once you've crossed the Mandrare River, the Berenty and Amboasary reserves begin, followed by Lake Anony and, finally, Taolagnaro (Fort-Dauphin).

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