Things to see and do Patan

Certainly the finest museum in the country, dedicated to the religious arts of Nepal, it's well worth a visit. Housed in the former palace of the Malla kings, built in 1734, the museum was inaugurated in 1997. It boasts a unique site, a haughty testimony to traditional Newar architecture. Although, like all the buildings, it was only slightly damaged by the 2015 earthquake, it has now been renovated and is fully open. You'll need to take the time to explore both floors and the first floor, and to read the many detailed explanations, both religious and historical. Alcoves and showcases highlight the exhibits (over 200 devotional objects, statues and sculptures). The whole is highly instructive, and the objects well displayed. Visitors learn how to recognize the gods: their positions, finery and clothing, and their attributes. The well-presented explanations help you find your way through the multitude of gods. The visit provides an interesting insight into Buddhism and Hinduism, a glimpse of the links between these two religions and, more generally, a different approach to Nepal's history. The exhibition also presents the different techniques used to create these remarkable pieces. Allow a good two hours to get the full picture. And don't forget to take a close look at Gallery H, where you'll discover that Durbar Square hasn't changed much in over a century.

The Golden Temple, the "Golden Temple", owes its name to the golden metal plates that cover its facade: it is certainly one of the most beautiful in Patan. A passage guarded by two stone lions leads to a small courtyard that gives access to the main Buddhist monastery of Patan. The three-storey pagoda, with its gold-covered roofs, is said to have been built in the 12th century and houses a large prayer wheel. Nearby is a small shrine, also covered in gold. In its present form, the shrine was founded in 1409 by King Bhaskar Varna. Before entering the shrine, please get rid of all leather objects, which are impure materials. In a small space, treasures pile up in a jumble. Buddhas and Tara line up in whole rows, griffins appear here and there and goddesses ride elephants balancing on turtles. Bronze tongues hang from the roofs to suck up prayers. Upstairs there is a small shrine whose centrepiece is a statue of Lokesvar.

The temple is extended by a network of courtyards, Baidya Baha and Michu Baha, where doctors and goldsmiths of the Sakya caste live. Here Buddhist priests have long since renounced their vows of celibacy. A special feature is that the high priest of the Golden Temple is always a young boy under the age of 12. He holds this office for 30 days before being replaced by another one. In this place it is not uncommon to see mysterious rituals.

Durbar Square in Patan is probably the most beautiful complex of temples and palaces in all of Nepal. As in Kathmandu and Bhaktapur, temples and pagodas stand in front of the palace. The most remarkable of them is dedicated to Krishna, the avatar of Vishnu who is also the god of love. Apart from the classical Nepalese-style pagodas, made of brick and wood, you will notice a multi-storey stone temple that devotees can bypass through the open galleries.

To the north of the square and at the end of a street with a view of the mountains stands the temple of Bhimsen, protector of the merchants and supposedly possessing superhuman strength. Opposite and below is the Manga Hiti, a public fountain built in stone steps that has been flowing since the 6th century. Further south the Hindu temple of Vishwanath is a richly decorated two-storey pagoda. Note on the west side, the statue of the bull Nandi, the mount of Shiva.

In the centre, facing the palace, the bronze statue of a 17th century king stands on a stone column. Yoganarendra Malla, kneeling, looks out of his bedroom window where people continue to prepare their beds and bring food every day. He will remain immortal until the bird perched above his head has flown away. He owes this privilege to the powers of Taleju, the protector of the royal clan, who is worshipped in three shrines inside the palace. Degu Talle, a seven-storey tower built in 1640 by Siddhi Nara-singh Malla, faces the pillar. Note the huge bell suspended between two pillars.

The Royal Palace, built in the 14th century, has been extended several times over the centuries. Its symmetrical red brick façade is punctuated by carved wooden windows. The palace consists of a succession of temples separated by courtyards. The main gate is guarded by two stone lions and leads to the central courtyard, the Mul Chowk. Taleju Bhawani Mandir, a three-storey octagonal-shaped pagoda, overlooks Mul Chowk, an inner courtyard where there is also the family altar dedicated to the goddess, the saint of saints. Only royal priests can push the door, guarded by Ganga and Jamuna, two elegant bronze statues representing the sacred rivers and sketching a dance step on either side. On the other hand, at the far end of the palace, visitors can sometimes enter the intimacy of the Royal Bathroom at Sundari Chowk, another courtyard where a stone basin adorned with delicate statuettes is enthroned.

The history of the Nag bahal and the nearby Hiranya Varna Mahavihar (also known as the Golden Temple) dates back to the 11th century. It is a central district of Patan in which almost all the inhabitants are Buddhists. The main shrine is located in the centre of the complex, inside an isolated two-storey building with a tiled roof. The neighborhood perpetuates the Newar traditions and atmosphere: take a walk through this historic place to capture unique moments in the daily life of the Newar community.

Uku Baha is one of the oldest Buddhist monasteries in Patan, although some of the buildings date from the 19th century. In operation since the 6th century, the temple houses authentic treasures donated by the faithful. It is also distinguished by a bronze lion from the Victorian period and a statue of Judda Shamsher, a rana Prime Minister, in ceremonial dress. Shamsher had contributed to the renovation of the temple after the 1934 earthquake.

The Tanga Baha temple protects the ancient Buddhist sanctuary of Minnath, which dates back to the Lichavi period. Tanga Baha is a brightly painted, double-roofed temple dating from the ^16th century. It houses the deity, a red Lokesvar idol identical to that of Macchendranath. During the procession, his smaller chariot follows that of Macchendranath. Mandalas, stone lion statues and a large prayer wheel can all be seen here.

This temple, which is relatively difficult to find, is also colloquially called the Temple of a Thousand Buddhas. You will find there a replica of the temple of Bodhgaya, made in the 17th century with bricks: each one bears an effigy of the Awakened One, a particularity that gave the temple its name. Contrary to what one might think, the images of the Buddhas are not all identical, they differ according to the cardinal points. Chronicles have preserved the memory of Abhayaraja, the bronzer who financed this masterpiece with his own money. Following a marital conflict, the craftsman stayed for some time in Bodhgaya, where he learned how to melt copper coins. This art was developed during the reign of Amar Malla, king of Kathmandu, who was in great need of specialists in alloys at a time when the valley benefited from its monopoly on minting the coins circulating in Tibet. As in the time of Philip Augustus, the great art consisted in discreetly reducing the proportion of gold used in the manufacture of coins.

The houses that surround the temple are the stronghold of the bronze-makers and still belong to authentic descendants of Abhayaraja. The shops offer bronze statuettes and information on the different stages of their manufacture according to the lost wax technique. A fireclay mould is cast on the wax model. When heated, the wax melts and leaves a hollow shape that is filled with an alloy of molten metals. A long finishing work follows.

Heading west towards Tangal Tol via a street that joins the main axis linking Durbar Square to Lagankhel, you will arrive at the temple complex of Macchendranath the Red, Patan's most popular god. Revered by Hindus and Buddhists in many ways, this god responsible for rain and fertility enjoys a special status. He resides in Bungamati half the year: during ceremonies, devotees bathe and dress him in great pomp, and processions of his chariot are the main festival of the city.

Located north of Durbar Square, this Hindu temple is dedicated to Shiva. In the centre of a mysterious basin mysteriously fed by the waters of the sacred lakes of Gosainkund rises a five-storey pagoda which would date back to 1382. This place is particularly venerated during the festival of Janai Purnima. Its courtyard is dotted with licchavi, thakuri and malla sculptures. The sanctuaries of the mother goddess, renowned for her great powers, attract many supplicants.