Leaving the city of Chios towards the southwest, beyond the plain of Kampos, one enters a region of the island which is subject to a particularly hot and dry microclimate, favorable to the cultivation of the pistachio tree. This weather-sensitive shrub grows only in this part of Europe and produces a precious resin, the famous masticha. Pyrgi is the gateway to the Mastichochoria region, a group of medieval villages that made their fortune on the cultivation of mastic. It is one of the most important villages of Mastichochoria, and one of the most photogenic, with its houses decorated with black and white geometric figures. An ancestral technique of scratching, the xista, is still used today: we owe these decorations, unique in Greece. The earthquake of 1881 did not affect the village and it is almost intact today. Take the time to discover it in the cooler hours and get lost in its winding streets. To do so, you will have to park outside the center, which is forbidden to cars.The entrance to the medieval village was once through two large and heavy iron gates (Kato Porta), which were closed at night to defend against any enemy attack, as the riches of the region were widely coveted. The structure of these fortifications is attributed to the Genoese, but they were already in existence, probably as early as the 11th century. The main tower had three levels with bastions and arched windows, all at a height of 18 m. Today, you can walk through narrow streets, sometimes under dark stone arches, and admire ancient churches, including the Byzantine church of Aghi Apostoli (14th century), built on the model of the katolikon of the Nea Moni monastery and which presents magnificent frescoes.Pyrgi, beyond its unique architectural testimony, is surrounded by pistachio trees. We cross these landscapes apart to reach the unavoidable mastic museum, about 2 km to the southeast. Continuing in this direction, you can also reach the coast to combine culture and swimming. The beautiful beach of Emborios, 6 km away, is located below the archaeological site of the ancient Ionian colony (8th century B.C.), with its fortifications and the temple of Athena (6th century B.C.). Not far away, don't miss the amazing black pebble beach of Mavra Volia.

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Vieille ville de Pyrgi, Chios. Cunfek - iStockphoto
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