LES ALYSCAMPS

"Alyscamps" is Provençal for "Champs-Élysées", the city of the dead in Greek mythology. It dates back to Roman times, when it was a vast necropolis along the Via Aurelia. However, the Alyscamps became a Christian Mecca in the ^4th century, thanks to the martyrdom of Saint Genest, who was executed in 308 CE for refusing to transcribe the writings of Diocletian's persecution. A church (now called Saint-Honorat) was built in his honor at the end of the Alyscamps cemetery, and this glorious if tragic fate inspired the region's leading figures to be buried there. Over the centuries, this originally pagan necropolis even became an essential stopover on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela for pilgrims from Provence. In the ^11th century, it was taken over by the monks of Marseille's Saint-Victor abbey. Many of its sarcophagi were stripped during the Renaissance, due to the theft of these prestigious objects by the powerful, then cut off by the digging of the Craponne canal, followed by the construction of the railroad line. What remains today is an alleyway laid out in the ^18th century. The sarcophagi themselves may be sparsely decorated (the finest pieces can be found in the Musée de l'Arles Antique), but the overall atmosphere, imbued with great spirituality, makes this a visit not to be missed, and one in which we recommend taking your time. Wander among the broken stones, whose wear and tear caused by time has been respected, under alleys of pine trees gently stirred by a breeze, and respectfully contemplate this multi-millennial cemetery and the memory it shelters. Van Gogh painted several superb representations.

The church of Saint-Honorat, who was bishop of Arles from 426 to 429, is also well worth a visit: although it never reached its planned size, you can admire its Provencal Romanesque style, topped by a beautiful lantern pierced with windows reminiscent of a Roman amphitheatre, and the beautiful light of its interior. Temporary exhibitions are frequently organized, and the magic of the place makes them even more beautiful. In 2019, it was the setting for the cruise fashion show of Italian Haute Couture house Gucci, and in 2022, Korean artist Lee Ufan organized a fabulous sculpture exhibition here. It's an extremely atypical, timeless place. An absolute must-see!