Things to see and do Grande Terre

In the blue-roofed halls overlooking the marina of Port Moselle, the archipelago's largest marina, flowers, fresh fruit and vegetables, fish, meat (deer sausage!), pastries and souvenirs are displayed. While tourists and locals mingle every day, the market is a big hit on weekends! You can have breakfast at the kiosk inside the halls. You can go there from 6am to have your coffee or to find a snack to take away for lunch. Be careful, Caledonians are early risers and from 11am the stalls are empty.

This museum is installed in an old colonial building. It traces the world of mining and the history of the region. The Le Nickel company (SLN), founded in 1880, was at the origin of development in Thio. It set up the infrastructure necessary for the exploitation of the site. The mines, the ore processing plant and the shipping wharf required a large workforce, half of which was recruited from Japan. A very interesting museum directly related to the modern exploitation that you can appreciate by visiting the mine.

Téremba, named after a small islet in the Bay of Uarai, was a penitentiary with a post office, telegraph and store. Construction of the buildings began in 1871, but following the Kanak revolt in 1878, a fort was erected there to serve as headquarters for the French army. After 1897, the site lost its importance and was sold at auction in 1919. The Marguerite de La Foa Association has been very active in the restoration of the site and participates in the dissemination of a past that has long remained taboo. It is an excellent museum.

Do not hesitate to contact the tourist office to prepare your stay in Hienghène and more particularly in the tribe. The tourist office will give you the names of the hosts able to welcome you (it is better to book 24 hours in advance). It is located in the center of the village, the reception is pleasant and informed. Behind the desk, the portrait of Jean-Marie Tjibaou is displayed. Very practical at the beginning of any stay, the team of the tourist office of Hienghène will be delighted to guide you in your adventure.

A cross indicates the old chapel of the Barrage dam. For the little history, the construction of this dam was decided in 1903. It began in 1912, was interrupted between 1914 and 1918 by the war and resumed in 1921, to complete in 1925. The first dam was approximately 13 m high and fed the Yaté village hydroelectric plant. It was soon insufficient and the work was to start again, which was done in 1956. The current dam is 60 m long, 641 m long and its vault is 200 m long. The thickness of the wall varies between 2,3 and 9 m. The water leaves to the Yaté hydroelectric plant.

It was a convict who drew the plans for this cathedral, built in 1888 on the heights. If you look up at the façade, you will see a two-meter statue of Notre-Dame-des-Flots, donated by the sailors of the Caledonian Merchant Navy. The two 25-meter towers are equipped with two-meter diameter clocks and were not yet completed at the time of its consecration in June 1894. Once inside, it is necessary to examine the large fonts inserted in the narthex. Don't miss the nickel leaf chandelier on the ceiling.

The Association for the Safeguarding of the Mining and Historical Heritage of North Caledonia (composed of former miners) has restored the site, its dispensary, the school, the executive quarters, the village hall, the chapel and the bakery. Some old rolling stock is still there... It is now possible to come and soak up the history of the site by contacting the Point I of Koumac to organize a visit. Bring a bottle of water, a hat and sunscreen.

This museum invites visitors to discover the maritime history of New Caledonia. The discovery is articulated around four themes: the sails of trade, maritime migrations, maritime links and the marking of the country and the voyage of La Pérouse during the Age of Enlightenment. Temporary exhibitions allow visitors to learn more about various themes related to the sea throughout the year.

It is in the heart of a beautiful forest that the caves of Koumac are hidden, in the middle of bancouliers, gyrocarpus and banians. Carved by underground rivers, they were formed in karstic limestone dating from the Eocene (53 to 34 million years ago). Known long before the arrival of the missionaries, they were used as burial places by the local tribes. Between 1970 and 1990, exploration and topographic surveys of the caves were carried out. The Small Cave of the Winds can be explored in 15-20 minutes, while it will take 1 hour for the Big Cave, accessible only on its first 380 meters. Do not go at night or in the rain; remember to bring good closed shoes, a lamp, a drink, and to sign the booklet at the entrance. Inside, the cave is absolutely sublime and will give you the opportunity to see many types of rocks, natural ceilings, bats (yes) and the roots of banyan trees mixed from the surface. There is some graffiti here and there by unscrupulous vandals.

The camping is authorized and free on the equipped area. To access the site, which is 8 km from the center of Koumac, turn right at the church traffic circle when coming from the south, then follow the right again at the crow's feet, before turning left at the sign. after 400 m, follow the right and cross the fortified bridge. Turn right after 900 m. You are only 1 km from the caves. Take the right track at the end of the road.

In the Xârâcùù language, they are called xwâkwé nè, "the sources of fire". For centuries, Kanak warriors dipped their weapons there before going to war. A legend transmitted by the Melanesian oral tradition explains the origins of this place. A long time ago, the valley of La Crouen was sacred. Only a family guarding the site lived there, along with a god named Wankwéné, who punished the unwary who committed the sacrilege of coming here. One night, the god stirred in his sleep and shook the mountain. The river, which was flowing along the western slope, drifted towards the eastern slope. The tribes then wanted to appropriate the source. A young man from the west went in search of it and came across a young girl from the east who had gone astray. They fell in love with each other and fled into the forest. Coming from opposing families, they could not return together and ended up in the valley of the Crouen, provoking the wrath of Wankwene. In anger, the god urinated on them, turning them into turtles and dogfish. The legend says that at the place where the urine ricocheted, two hot springs sprang up... But don't let that put you off, because the spot is very nice. The sulphurous and alkaline springs flow 250 m³ per day at a temperature between 40 and 44 °C. They are effective against asthma, bronchial affections and rheumatism, but don't be too sensitive to the smell of sulfur.

A ten-minute drive from the center stretches the pretty beach of Moara, with its white sand at the edge of the coconut trees. The bay of Port Bouquet is also worth a visit, a few kilometers away. It overlooks the sea magnificently and faces the islets Némou and Toupéti, which offer superb underwater scenery for diving. In the direction of the hourly road leading to Canala, the beach of Ouroué and its black sand also reveals a surreal landscape. The region of Thio is a beautiful area, mountains and sea offer thrills.

In the direction of Poum, at the exit of Koumac, you will have to take the road to Babouillat and drive for about twenty kilometers to reach this beautiful forest park. Picnics and camping are possible here near the Néhoué River. Children's games, walking and swimming are also available. Please note that the collection of wood and plants is forbidden. A very nice walk during which you can admire the numerous birds.

This mine was exploited at the time by convicts, before falling into ruin. It all began in 1884, when Johnny Higginson bought the concession. The open-pit mining of copper lasted one year, until the engineer Louis Pelatan opened the way to a new type of extraction: the steam core drilling system, which made it possible to dig down to 199 m below sea level. Nine galleries were then built in the subsoil, but the fall in prices led to successive takeovers, and then to the final closure of the site in 1931.

Located in the Nakety valley, 1.5 km south of Canala, on the heights of Gelima, it is necessary to climb for 4 km through banana and coconut plantations to reach the falls. At the arrival, a path on the left leads to the top of the falls. Be careful during your ascent, the path can be tricky. You will find there one of the most beautiful waterfalls of the territory, which will make you enjoy a panoramic view on the magnificent surroundings of Canala. Remember to ask for permission from the tribes of Gelima or Mia. Swimming is possible on site.

This mine was exploited until the Second World War by the Japanese and closed after Pearl Harbor. The Japanese were expelled and some interned. The remains are impressive. All that remains here are concrete columns that carried evacuation hoses to the beach, as well as rusted conveyor belts that end up on the shore. Up there, on the mountain, more than 1,500 people once worked to extract the iron.

The visit of this small traditional distillery is free, but it is better to call in advance to make sure it will be open. If you arrive around 9.30 am on the first Sunday of the month, you can attend with Didier, a distillation of niaouli leaves and see the essence coming out of the still. On the spot, the shop offers you essential oils. Stock up on niaouli oil, vanilla essence, by-products and local crafts. It is possible to eat at the table d'hôtes, upon reservation

Lucien Bernheim, a mining owner, donated money to the colonial administration in 1901 for the construction of a library. Built on the colonial model of the time, in the image of the pavilions of the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1900, the building is one of the most eloquent architectural testimonies of Nouméa. Within its walls are grouped 700,000 volumes, a large part of which deals with New Caledonia and the Pacific. Researchers also have at their disposal the collection of all the public newspapers of the territory.

The Madeleine reserve is an exceptional site for the diversity and richness of its flora. Botanists will find here unique species: dwarf araucarias, carnivorous plants, wild orchids... 168 species of plants (most of them endemic) have been listed in the area. This red earth contains very few nutrients and only the vegetation of the mining maquis can resist these extreme conditions, which explains the unusual rate of endemism. The trail leads for 2 km to the falls. Easy access.

Count 2h30 of walk for the ascent of the mount Kathépaïk, from where we can see the Heart by good weather. (It is the sunshine that brings out the heart). Once at the top, find your bearings in relation to the two rivers, with the point of the Heart pointing towards you. At the risk of being disappointed, do not imagine that you will be able to find what you see on Yann Arthus-Bertrand's postcards; unless you fly over the site, it is quite difficult to distinguish. Nevertheless, if the sun is shining, the panorama is grandiose and stretches between red laterite earth, mountains, mangrove and ocean. To the north, the Téméla tribe; in front of you, the Duroc pass, to the east, the Koniambo massif and, to the south, the Oundjo tribe. Not to mention the recently built huge factory in the North.
But you have a good view on the heart, without necessarily reaching the top. Count in that case, about one hour of walk. Be careful, it goes up!

A guided tour in 4x4 ? Get in touch with Jacques Loquet: ✆ +687 42 38 78 or ✆ +687 75 44 67.

A flight over the Heart by microlight? The flight departs from the Koné airfield. Count 17,000 CFP for 45 min. Information from Hibis Air at ✆+687 47 22 61.

Parking: the starting point of the hike is at the level of a housing estate, a little outside the center. Arriving at the level of the store "the Katepai", take the road that runs alongside the store, then at the crossroads, take the left. Park in the available spaces or along a sidewalk.

Also called "Trou Feillet" because Governor Feillet used to visit it regularly during the colonial era, this natural pool is very easy to access and allows for a pleasant swim or serves as an ideal picnic area. The Cuve de Sarraméa is a magnificent place to discover in the midst of a lush nature and left master of the place. Water holes and waterfalls are scattered along the walking paths. On some of the waterfalls, you can even make a natural slide! An aquatic hike to do.

It is a recommended stop on your arrival on the Pebble! In this beautiful colonial house, you will discover the history of New Caledonia, its mixed populations, the major political decisions from 1853 to 1939, as well as the participation of Kanak infantrymen and Caledonian soldiers in the First World War and the historical turning points that the territory experienced, such as the nickel boom between 1966 and 1971. Once the visit is over, you can take a break in the museum gardens, located behind the veranda.

Opened in 1971, the Museum of New Caledonia is entirely devoted to Oceanian and Melanesian traditions. The first floor is dedicated to the Kanaks and one can discover sculptures of the Grande Case. Puzzles made of gaïac wood, totems and masks are also on display. The mezzanine is generally turned towards the South Pacific and covers, for example, Vanuatu, the Solomon Islands, Fiji, Papua New Guinea, etc.

The museum was established in the old central store of the city, built by the bagnards in 1870 and then converted into cheese dairies. The main building focuses on Bourail's history, rich in everyday objects, anecdotes and explanations for different communities. On the ground floor, an easy Caledonian interior was reconstituted, as well as workshops. In the courtyard you will find a bread oven, a bakery and a kanak box. It is a lively and well maintained attraction by a staff available. Shop and Wi-Fi on site. Guided tours of the New Zealand site or cemetery are also possible, as are traditional weaving workshops on Tuesday morning from 9 am to 12 pm.

Every month, the Thio tourist office organizes tours of the plateau mine, which has been in operation since 1874 and is still operated by SLN. The first mine in New Caledonia, it is one of the largest nickel deposits in the world and the only site in the country open to the public. These days are commented by Maurice Fels, a local historian, and then by a site manager. They are followed by a traditional tribal meal. Attention, closed shoes and pants are mandatory. Remember to ask about the calendar and to reserve.

North of the Ouaïème ferry. 100 meters high, it is accessible, except in rainy periods. To reach it, you have to follow the sign and the path to reach, in a few minutes, the nice natural basin, where the bathing is pleasant. A signposted path, sometimes sporty, then leads you to the site in an hour round trip. The terrain can be slippery and steep, but the view from the top reveals the wonders of the lagoon. The Tao River, which rises in the heart of Mount Panie, is dotted with waterfalls, each one higher than the next.

This beach is a very popular spot for surfers thanks to the waves of the Popinée pass. But the real star of the place is of course the famous "Bonhomme", a massive rock that stands out from the cliff. To best appreciate the surroundings, two trails are recommended: the Three Bays Trail, which links the Roche Percée to the Bay of Turtles and the Bay of Lovers with superb views over 4 km from the Roche parking lot, and the Cycad Forest Trail, which starts in the middle of the beach and crosses a dry forest over 2 km.

This beautiful beach takes its name from the turtles that regularly come here to lay their eggs - but beware, swimming is forbidden because of the strong currents. However, you should not miss it, as its location is exceptional. Facing the pass and the lagoon, the magnificent columnar pines stand next to the famous Bonhomme de Bourail. From the Roche Percée, the three bays path to the Baie des Tortues, passing by the Baie des Amoureux and the belvedere, is one of the most beautiful pedestrian itineraries of the West Coast.

The mission was founded between 1853 and 1860 by Marists who had originally settled in Balade, on the northern part of the eastern coast. The church was built in 1889 and, even if the beach itself is not extraordinary, the setting is really pretty, set in the middle of a profusion of greenery and plantations: bananas, coffee, flowers, coconut trees, papayas, manioc, taro... It is a good way to see if you recognize the Caledonian flora. An interesting visit from a spiritual point of view as well as a historical one because of the sad history attached to the place.

The small red-roofed church of the Sacred Heart of Cié bears witness to the development of the Marist Fathers' mission in the 19th century. First built of wood and cob in 1866, it was razed and replaced in 1899 by the present neo-Gothic masonry church. Inside, the choir seduces by its intimist proportions and the slender lines of its arches as well as by the luminosity of its blonde stone and the richly colored reflections of its stained glass windows. Restored in 1999, it has been classified with its presbytery since 1991 as "local heritage".

With a surface area of 40 km², it is the largest in the country! At the eastern end, the Yaté dam impresses by its dimensions. 45 meters high and 641 meters long, it is located at an altitude of 160 meters and the thickness of its wall varies between 2.3 meters and 9 meters. Built in 1959, it provides 20% of the country's electricity. A path leads from the site to the power station of the municipality and it takes 1h30 for the descent, which is delightful. One meets there in particular a rare fauna and some carnivorous plants... A foot race crosses it every year.

19 km south of Houaïlou, towards Canala. Once you reach the hill in the mining center and after passing two large power poles, turn left to a platform overlooking the ocean. At the top of a knoll, on the left, three power poles appear in a row. You are in the heart of a petroglyph site. The rocks are decorated with sun, men and crosses. The Kanaks deposit coins there as a sign of respect.

Reaching Thio from Canala is almost an adventure. The road, then the track, is so narrow and winding that timetables have been set up for 13 km. From Nakety to Thio, you pass at even hours and, in the other direction, at odd hours. Be careful, the route is not paved everywhere, and some people try to force their way through. Be sure to check the condition of the road before you go, and make sure that the weather is good and that your vehicle is able to drive on the track. At night, it is open on both sides.

This military fort, built from 1864 by marine troops, was used until 1916. And the least we can say is that this building has been the scene of many historical events. In addition to the many (and obvious) military exercises as a place for soldiers to live, it was the setting and HQ of a religious Mission, but also, the first mixed marriage between a European and a Melanesian woman in 1870. Today, the building is unfortunately in ruins, but it is possible to visit it by requesting the Information Point

Located to the east of the city, beyond the Magenta district, and outside the city center, the Ouémo peninsula is home to beautiful houses with flowery gardens overlooking the sea. The place is surrounded by the mangrove visible on both sides of the peninsula. The hotel Le Stanley is located at the point of Longs Cous. From there, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Sainte-Marie islet, Magenta Bay, the Tjibaou Cultural Center and the surrounding mountains facing the city...

Known as the "Tina Loops", this bike path is open to the public every day of the week from 6am to 6pm. To reach the starting point, follow the direction of the Tina Golf Course to Lasalle Point. The trail passes through beautiful landscapes that are recognized for their ecological value and are a classified and protected natural site. Count on 30 to 45 minutes to cover this 7.5 km paved loop. You will walk along the seashore and enjoy beautiful views of the lagoon. The circuit also crosses the mangrove and the dry forest.

The military had established their vegetable garden here, whose contours they delimited with coconut trees, replaced today by flamboyant trees. The statue (the beautiful Celeste) of the 8-meter fountain designed in 1893 by the sculptor Mahoux was inspired by a woman from Nouméa. The bandstand, located nearby and built by the convicts in 1878, sometimes hosts concerts. It is pleasant to sit on the steps of the small amphitheater. During the day, the square is always crowded with people on the terraces, benches and lawns.

This is a great idea for a walk that is accessible to all. Just south of the city center, from its marina of Port Moselle and its market, you can then climb the hill of Artillery before going down to the bay of the Orphanage, which owes its name to a reception center created by Brother Antoni. It is surmounted by a Lorraine cross, on Mount Coffyn, in memory of the rallying of New Caledonia to Free France in June 1940. At the level of Port Plaisance, follow the seaside towards the bay of the Fishermen and the nautical circle.

If you leave the Ouémo peninsula on your right and the Magenta bay a little further north. At the junction, not far from the former University of the Pacific and the airfield, you will be able to admire the small strip of fine sand bordered by superb columnar pines. There are tables and benches for picnics. A playground is also available for children. It is the ideal place to start windsurfing from the beach when you are a beginner. Beware of swimmers and webbed hikers though!

The trail follows the left bank of the creek into the ever-growing wilderness to reach the river, its small waterfalls and waterholes. The rainforest, the many birds and the low elevation trail make this a popular walk for families. At the end, you can take a dip in shallow pools. It takes about forty minutes to walk the trail (although we recommend taking your time to admire the scenery) before arriving at the waterfall from the parking lot. A very relaxing and quiet place.

At the mouth of the Blue River, three hot springs offer 43 degrees water! Only one of the sources is on earth and suitable for swimming.

A few wild beaches will allow you to cool off after a day of walking or driving, including the beach of Tangadiou and the beach of the Péninsule peninsula accessible by overland roads. Very poorly attended, you will be able to observe the fishermen at dusk. Picnic areas at the seaside are also located on the tip of Pandop. 

The great curiosity of Prony Bay is of course the needle, which has nothing to do with a coral formation, but which results from a freshwater resurgence. This gigantic chimney takes root at a depth of 38 meters and rises 2 meters below the surface of the water. Imagine a mineral cathedral coming from the depths. Calcification is the result of the action between fresh water, coming from lakes and rivers, and salt water from the lagoon. The fresh water infiltrates, heats up and rises... Needles rise from an arm of the cathedral, forming several bell towers at the top, below which a hole, from which fresh water gushes out, has been dug. This water, mixing with salt water, gives the impression of a turbid mixture with two compounds of different density. The Aiguille was officially discovered in 1873 when the cargo ship La Somme, passing through Prony to load wood for the prison, ran aground there. The ship was stranded there for about 50 hours, and it was an aviso that relieved her of her heavy cargo, thus putting an end to her stranding.

Today,it is a diving spot: the heat of the cavity is not to the displeasure of the fishes that come here in great numbers. The needle never stops growing, making its own limestone gangue. Corals and fish are present. A real kingdom for bivalves, the site is also a spawning ground for loaches in November. You might as well say that it is a wonder for all those who can come and dive here...

Count 40 minutes of walking through a lunar landscape to the top. The panorama opens up gradually to reveal a 360° view of the plain and its numerous stations, the lagoon and the surrounding mountains. Lush vegetation. The Tia plateau is a must for hiking fans or those who just want to enjoy the landscape. You can count on about two hours to go to the plateau and back and discover the magnificent panorama of the surroundings. The view from the top is magnificent.

A beautiful stroll through the tribe of Pothé to the waterfall of Ny. On the agenda: walking, swimming and picnicking. The setting is magical. The excursion is possible every day depending on the availability of the guide, it is better to call him to book.

This route goes along the seaside until the mouth of the small river. It leads the walkers on an old path opened and fitted out by the convicts at the beginning of the century. Remains of the convicts' work and the life of these men who exploited the wood are still visible. We wind under the shade of the big trees of the forest, crossing the mining maquis and its bushy plants before skirting the mangroves. You may be able to observe the largest tree-dwelling pigeon in the world: a unique species, endemic to New Caledonia, called notou.

This beautiful hike makes a slightly physical but breathtaking loop. You will cross real oasis of primary forest and enjoy beautiful panoramas on the lagoon and the valley. The trail follows a part of the "time road" closed to traffic. The return journey is done by the old "time road", a beautiful route in cornice which allows to admire magnificent turquoise water holes and numerous waterfalls on the other side of the valley.

South of the Rocher à la Voile, you approach Anse Vata (stone in the local language), closed off to the south by Point Magnin. Formerly marshy, it was called the Bay of Ducks, the cove is now one of the most popular tourist spots in New Caledonia. Don't worry, the number of visitors in high season is equivalent to that of the Côte d'Azur in winter... Exposed to the prevailing winds, it is also a very famous windsurfing site. The nautical structures abound in the area, as do the hotels and restaurants.

The Bay of Lemons, or "BD" as it is known locally, is sheltered from the wind and is lined with numerous snack bars, restaurants, cafes and hotels. Some say that a boat full of lemons once ran aground here, releasing its cargo, hence the name. Others say that the bay was once lined with lemon trees. With its sea of oil, its trees and its fine sand, it is the family beach par excellence. The Cap du Rocher à la Voile in the south was the place where Nouméans would gather for a last farewell when the sailing ships left for France.

This monument, erected in 1992, commemorates the fiftieth anniversary of the arrival of the first 20,000 American soldiers in Nouméa on March 12, 1942. Nearly a million of their compatriots followed them and transited on the Rock, so that New Caledonia constituted one of the strategic bases of the American army during the Pacific War against Japan, particularly during the Battle of the Coral Sea. It can be found near the market and Port-Moselle. A solemn pause during your visit, but unfortunately not very well highlighted.

You can rent a Kayak at Terra Incognita or leave with a guide (even address). Park yourself near Du Marsh and bring canoeing to the water. If you take a motorboat, you need to be on your guard because many tree branches emerge on the surface of the lake. When it comes to water, be careful because the approaches of the lake are quite quicksand: avoid getting bogged down there! You cross the lake from Yaté to the north and you have to leave the island on your left. Basically, you enter the lake of Naoué adjacent to Lake Yaté. The hotel was very clean and the staff were very friendly and helpful. You will fail between the island and the peninsula.