Archaeology handicrafts and science and technology sites to visit Peru

The fortress of Ollantaytambo, which blocked the access to the Sacred Valley in direction of Cusco and Machu Picchu, was not finished when Pizarro landed, as the blocks scattered on the ground testify. The summit is reached through a series of agricultural terraces by a particularly steep staircase. A ten-niche temple housing the mummies overlooks the Temple of the Sun, made up of six gigantic monoliths weighing around fifty tons (we still wonder how they were hoisted up there). Higher up, adobe and dry-stone dwellings merge with the rock and a walkway runs around the spur to other dwellings, with, at the bottom, pools and baths fed by channels cut into the rock (some stones bear scratches, traces of the cutting). On the mountain opposite, where you can see the face of a strange bearded man, the military school and the prison mark the limits of the settlement. It is also possible to go there and access it freely for those who have not paid the boleto turistico, it is called Pinkuylluna. The citadel is entered and exited through two monumental gates in the adobe and rough stone walls. A craft market has been established in the square below the site.

A visit with impact, because the fortress is literally embedded in a circus of rocks and the higher you go, the more the landscape opens up. A magical experience.

Inscribed on the List of the cultural heritage of the Humanity since 1994, this archaeological complex, formed by an immense network of lines and drawings of animals and plants attributed to the Nazca culture, but of which we do not know much, is mysterious to say the least... These lines, which cover a surface of some 350 km², were discovered by Paul Kosok in 1939. They were then studied by Hans Horkheimer and Maria Reiche, the latter having devoted the last 50 years of her life to them.

We can see some figures to the km 420 of the Panamericana, to 25 km of Nazca, from the top of a mirador of 12 m of height (S/ 2 the access): a hand, a lizard and a tree. One distinguishes clearly the figures, but one does not catch the amplitude of the accomplished work. Also a mirador in Palpa (S/ 2 the access).

By plane, you can see the whole area for 30 minutes (prefer early morning departures for less waiting at the airport and because it is often too windy in the afternoon for the planes to take off). The main companies have planes for four to seven passengers that can reach speeds of up to 220 km/hour. Beware, it's a bumpy ride! Don't plan to have a big breakfast before taking off... Also be aware that the French Embassy advises against flying over the lines while waiting for the implementation of safety measures since the accidents of 2008 and 2010 and recently in February 2022.

Some overflights (longer) also pass over the Palpa lines, new figures discovered a short time ago.

The Sunday market is worth a visit. In the lower part of the village, there is a bit of bartering between colors and strong scents (coca, muña, hierba luisa, rudas, as many plants to be infused), but tourism changes the deal. In the upper part, on the vast square of the white church with its Inca walls, the handicraft merchants. What remains of authenticity is expressed in the palavers, accompanied by force chicha, between the Indians in traditional dress. Underneath are the terraces where visitors stroll. Small museum on site, entrance S/ 7.

Buried under the sand, it is one of the most impressive pre-Incan cities of Peru. In the Muchik language, spoken on the coast before the arrival of the Incas, Chan Chan means "where there was sun". It was the capital of the Chimú Empire which shone from the 9th to the 15th century, after having supplanted the Mochica kingdom (4th to 9th century). It was inscribed by Unesco on the List of Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 1986. The world's largest earthen city covered an area of 14 km² and included no less than 28 palaces where some 150,000 people would have lived. It is believed that the Chimu civilization was military with a lord and master of each valley.

Of this grandiose city, only theadobe

walls remain today, which the storms continue to erode. There are still nine palaces standing. Of the palaces of Chaiwac, Uhle, Laberinto, Gran Chimú, Squier, Velarde, Bandalier and Nik An, several have been restored and copies of the original friezes installed to give a more accurate idea of the place. They are scattered along the Pan-American Highway and the most impressive one, Palacio Nik An, is visited.

The Palacio Nik An (the palace of the center in Muchik language) - ex-Palacio Tschudi - is a monumental complex that is breathtaking: you walk between the brick walls, some of which are 13 m high, and you open onto immense spaces, the patios. The walls are filled with bas-reliefs representing fish, birds, fantastic animals and squirrels in a repetitive and bewitching way. The spaces are each time divided into 3 levels: the smooth sky, the sea represented by lines and waves and the earth and its animals. A central space, now populated by reeds, was one of the largest purifying baths. Nearly 140 water wells have been found all around Chan Chan, 90% of which are inside the palaces: he who possessed the water possessed the power. It is here in this immense palace that the Festival of the Dead and its sacred mummies were celebrated, for which the inhabitants brought tributes from all over the valley, so we think that a large part of it was also a granary or depository for all the offerings.

Note that Chan Chan includes four sites rather spaced: the main complex called Palacio Nik An, the site museum (rather basic), Huaca Esmeralda and Huaca Arco Iris. It is also worthwhile to negotiate a taxi to go from one site to the other.

Itis in the Huaca de la Luna that the remains of 107 sacrificed warriors and numerous polychrome bas-reliefs were unearthed. We explore the site via stairs installed all along the building to have a better view on the friezes. Unfortunately, everything is quite degraded, but the remaining friezes marvel at their detail and color. Archaeologists say that more than 250,000 people participated in its construction. Its construction lasted no less than 600 years!

We find there especially Aie Paec painted of red and ochre, the god with the teeth of feline surrounded by birds and snake, which represents the mountain when Cico paec is the marine god surrounded by waves. The most impressive wall is located on the back part of the huaca: 6 floors of distinct friezes with the procession of the winners and losers chained, the priests, the spiders, the fishermen and so on successively

Around the years 600 or 650, the region undergoes chronic El Niño phenomena which leads to a social revolt since neither the priests nor the nobles manage to control the climate and then a progressive migration which will give birth to the neighboring Chan Chan built on a terraced ground which allows the water to filter. In spite of everything, the Huaca del Sol et de la Luna remains a place of worship, of homage to the ancestors buried here.

The Huaca del Sol is the highest in Peru with its 45 m. It is not open to the public and has not yet been the subject of extensive excavations. It is imposing and photogenic, compared to its neighbor which was gradually deconstructed to access the treasures it contained.

The museum,subsidized by private funds, is very didactic and rich. A visit not to be missed. Here we find the offerings with which the dead were buried. You can also see anthropomorphic animals, realistic portraits where the features are drawn with precision and scenes of sacrifice. Today we think that sacrifices were not so frequent, but that a special caste was raised and trained for the office of fighter, a bit like noble gladiators. In crucial moments, such as the El Niño phenomenon, fights were organized and the winners and losers were separated. The defeated ones remained between 10 or 15 days to be prepared for their ultimate sacrifice. Finally, some huari ceramics testify to the last phase of occupation of the place.

After a hundred kilometers from Huaraz, by a road in bad condition, one reaches, at 3,200 m, an archaeological complex that was, during the first millennium of our era, the most important ceremonial center of the Cordillera. It is possible to walk from a square to an esplanade and from a pyramid with underground galleries, originally decorated with bas-reliefs, to rooms where monoliths with strange figures were erected. The main building, the Castillo or Great Pyramid, 75 m long and 13 m high, is composed of three superimposed granite terraces. Underneath, galleries, corridors and underground chambers are connected by stairs and ramps. On the outside, a portico is formed by two cylindrical columns carved with bird figures. The cornice, also elaborately carved, bears eight stylised condors or falcons.

In front of it, the plaza where the Obelisco Tello stood has been cleared. The Templo del Lanzón, inside the Great Pyramid, is the oldest building in the complex, dating back to 1200 B.C. A 5-metre-high stone of strange raw beauty depicts a figure with a feline head and hair made of snakes.

A visit to the Museo Nacional de Chavín is also worthwhile, where you can find ceramics and tools, but above all the Obelisco Tello and an interesting collection of pututos, large shells used by blowing strongly into them to call out to others.

As it is difficult to find maps in the area, it is important to plan your trip in advance with a GPS. It is easy to leave directly from the Plaza de Armas de Chachapoyas on foot (1h to reach the start of the Inca Trail at the main road), but you can also ask a taxi to drop you off.

The first step is to reach Levanto(7 to 8 hours walk). The path is well marked and you can take the trail that leads to the ruins of Yalape (although a bit difficult to find). Once past Collacruz, be careful, as the Inca Trail is less obvious to follow. Spend the night in Levanto or bring a tent (at about 2,300 m, a mountain pasture awaits you; you will sleep in the meadows among the cows, with water nearby).

The next day, the destination to reach is Tingo (between 6 and 8 hours of walking). You have to go down to the bottom of the valley, cross the stream and then follow the track going up a bit, before going to the right side of the mountain. After a viewpoint, you go down again and pass in front of ruins buried in the vegetation. Once you arrive at the bottom of the main valley that goes to Tingo, you have to go up a bit until you find a cable to cross the river in a small cart! Finally, follow the road to the bottom of the valley and you will find Tingo.

The last day is dedicated to the ascent to the magnificent siteof Kuélapand to its discovery. Everything is signposted and it will take you about 4 hours.

Unfortunately one cannot undertake the excursion alone (the rules and controls are very strict) and the assistance of an agency is obligatory. Those follow one another on the Plaza de Armas of Cusco and in the calle Plateros, but attention, the prices are according to the service. It is necessary to count approximately 600 US$ for the 4 days of hike (40 km), without forgetting the tip for your companions, but that includes the trains, entries, visit of the site. Be sure to check which services are included or not.

It is highly recommended to book in advance, as the number of hikers on the trail is limited to 500 people (including porters) per day. Don't believe anyone who tells you otherwise. Best season is from May to August for an arrival under the sun.

As a reminder, previously it was possible to reach the Sun Gate from the archaeological site, since the pandemic this access has not been reopened to visitors with a classic entrance. Its access is therefore reserved only to the walkers of the Camino Inca.

To travel serenely, do not hesitate to leave your luggage and your money at the hotel, but do not forget to take your passport, indispensable to enter the site of Machu Picchu. In addition, you will be able to stamp it on your way out to show off to your friends!

Circuit of 4 days

For this mythical walk rich in emotions, it is necessary to foresee four days and three nights, so much this way that followed the "chasquis", estafettes assuring the communications between the cardinal points of the empire, is marked by History. The major part of the way is paved and in good condition, with, at the end, the reward that makes forget all the fatigues: Machu Picchu! The route itself, which begins in the sierra and emerges in the selva, impresses by the efflorescence of the vegetation and by the lakes and mountains that seem to have been sown there, for the only pleasure of the hiker. The vegetation all along the route shows off its finery: puyas, orchids, fragrant essences (cedar, eucalyptus, laurel), and if you are lucky, you may see an otter, a puma or a parrot. Hummingbirds also show up very often.

The groups are generally constituted of 10 to 15 people, including an experienced guide knowing the vegetation and the History of the Incas, porters and cooks who, very often, are the same. The porters do a lot of work: they have to arrive before you at the sites to set up camp and prepare the meal, and then, once you have left, they have to break camp and run (with at least 20 kg on their backs) to overtake you and set up the next camp before you arrive. These porters will prepare balanced and varied meals (from trout to chicken to spaghetti bolognaise), always with a soup as a starter and a mate de coca (coca leaf infusion) for dessert.

This mate is absolutely essential to alleviate the inevitable breathing problems.

At km 88, the train (or the bus) abandons its load of hikers - it is necessary to be ready, because the convoy stops only one small minute - before plunging in a tunnel and continuing its smoky and rattling road. We cross the roaring Urubamba river by a suspension bridge and we begin the walk on the most popular trekking path of America. 3 km further on, we are already in the heart of the matter with the archaeological site of Llaqtapata, that is to say one hundred dwellings of different architecture, a trapezoidal square and buildings with two floors. The most remarkable is constituted by a succession of stone terraces stretched on 2 km. It would be a pity, in the excitement of the beginning of a journey that promises to be exciting, to neglect Llaqtapata. But already the path becomes very steep before stabilizing; the soft hum of the fresh Kusichaka river alleviates the first burns to the lungs, and the shade of the trees soothes the walker.

3h30 after having left the train to its parallel destiny, we see, at 2 770 m of altitude, the houses of Wayllabamba, unique village on the route, in a valley where the irrigation canals and the inca terraces go up to the conquest of the slope.

It is time to breathe and to choose between going to Llulluchapampa - it will then be necessary to walk 2 hours more - or to stay in Willabamba to rest. At this stage, we are facing a big physical challenge: to leave the valley to climb by the Hatun Wayruro stream and to pass the pass of Warmihuanusqa. The next day, when we leave, the landscape changed: the short grass, dried by the cold winds, took the place of the forest. When we reach the pass, we are at 4 200 m, culminating point of the way of the Inca (part not to be underestimated). The ground becomes very steep (difference in level of almost 1,000 m) in the descent (attention to the knees!) until the Pacamayu river, border between sierra and selva, territory of the mosquitoes. After lunch, as a way of digestion, we climb to the ruins of Runkuraqay, a place of observation and sanctuary whose walls have defied the centuries.

The glance thrown back catches the snowy summit of the Verónica and slides, in the east, on the green carpet of the tropical forest. From this moment, the walk becomes a real pleasure: we only have to go down towards the "lost city". At 3 500 m, Sayaqmarka spreads out its alleys, houses, fountains and pre-Hispanic channels. We camp near the walls, because here the sunset is absolutely extraordinary. A lake on the right, flowers everywhere and the picture is complete. The way becomes then a reality of stone facilitating the approach of Machu Picchu. We bathe there in full mystery, in the middle of the clouds, between the buildings of Phuyupatamarca, center of distribution of inca food. The complex owes its name to the profusion of orchids which grow there in big number, all the year. Borrowing the way of the Inca that connects Phuyupatamarca to Winay, "young woman" in Quechua, we go along an interesting set of houses and fountains. Further, we plant the tent to 4 hours of walk of the Inti Punku, door of the Sun, for the third and last night under the stars, the head already to the Machu Picchu so close and that we will be among the first to visit, before the arrival of the buses..

It is here that you will find the other groups for a big feast, a shower (without hot water, but that makes good nevertheless) and that you will thank the carriers and cooks to have accompanied you. The next morning, wake up at 3:30 am for the last walk, even the race, until the door of the Sun from where we will watch its rising on the marvelous Inca city. A reward which redeems a very legitimate tiredness. This arrival by the Door of the Sun at this hour is savored. Then, with slow steps, we approach the descent towards the heart of the ruins and participate in a traditional visit. You will go back down by shuttle to join the crowd of the tourists to Aguas Calientes and you will realize the great privilege to make its entrance on such a mythical site on foot.

Circuit of 2 days

This option is very interestingfor those who do not feel the physical strength of a too intense trek and hard nights, but want to enjoy the landscapes. We take a train early in the morning, we get off at Km 104 and we do the whole last part of the Camino Inca. Elevation changes, steps and ascents and descents. We arrive by the Door of the Sun at the end of the afternoon to discover a more quiet site since we arrive little before its closing. Then we will go up the next morning (after having spent the night in a real bed) for the guided tour of the next day. So we see Machu Picchu twice, at two different hours of the day and probably under two different lights and atmospheres. It is necessary to go through an agency, the quotas are regulated, but with the rules of visit hardened it is a good solution to enjoy it more. The all-inclusive price with train, walk, entrance fees, visit, night, train back is still high, about 400 US$, but it is a once-in-a-lifetime encounter.

Under the name Pinkullyuna, the ruins in height are referred to as those of Ollantaytambo, which we see on the right of the village. In fact, the agricultural warehouses at the time. This climb is worth the trouble because at the end of 1 h 30 we offer a magnificent view over Ollantaytambo village and its fortress. And there's almost nobody. Take Calle Lares, right just before the Plaza, follow and you will find an open door on the mountain, stone staircases and a sign indicating «Pinkullyuna - hours of visits 7 h -16 h 30». Free.

This promontory, whose name means: "testigo de mis amores" (witness of my loves) and which rises 50 meters above the city, would shelter underground paths which would communicate with the Qoricancha (temple of the Sun) of Cusco, that is to say 380 km of galleries... A guarantee: the view on the plaza de Armas, the cathedral, the roofs and of course, the lake, as well as the white statue of Manco Cápac, the first Inca. Even if you want to go there for the sunset, be careful not to venture there alone at the end of the day.

The site evokes a spiritual and administrative center of the Lima culture (200 to 700 AD). The pyramids made of "adobitos" (the walls, similar to libraries, are built of "small books of adobe" spaced from each other, which gives them antiseismic properties) of 30 m height would be erected on bones of sacrificed women as well as on broken ceramic basins. The plants, trees and flowers are also the object of a reconstitution of the time, just like el perro peruano, typical Peruvian dog without hair... We also see llamas, alpacas and cuy in an enclosure. An interesting visit, especially that the site is well valued with a guide included in the price of the ticket. It's a pity that there is so often fog, because we would have a beautiful view on Lima from the top of the pyramid!

The night visits are a new way to enjoy the mystic touch of the site. You can't climb the highest of the pyramids but the site is beautifully lit.

Its restaurant (Tel +51 1 445 4042 - www.resthuacapucllana.com) is worth a visit. First of all, its location is unique and offers without doubt one of the most romantic panoramas of Peru. Secondly, the Peruvian cuisine, with a touch of "fusion nouvelle cuisine", is excellent! Count S/ 100 to the chart.

Other restaurants with terraces at the exit of the Huaca like the Bodega de la Trattoria or Gianfranco. You can also admire the site from outside on the terrace in this residential and affluent area.

Take a combi under the Benavides bridge (Av. Benavides and Panamericana Sur) in the direction of Pachacamac/Lurin (count 45 min and a few soles). Mirabus also offers the excursion.

In Quechua, this name means "the soul of the world, the one who gives meaning to the world". We are here in presence of the most important sanctuary of the central coast dedicated to the god Pachacamac (the one that gives the life), that knew its apogee in the VIIIth century and was still at the arrival of the Spaniards an important center. The Incas, concerned about the cohesion of the empire, maintained this divinity in its temple. The site presents vestiges in adobe, walls decorated with human figures and fish, idols carved in wood. When the weather is good, there is a superb view from the main pyramid.

The visit is worthwhile, especially since the new museum enriches the experience. A work of reconstitution was made around the idol in wood of Pachacamac of which one found a carved totem rich in details.

You can also discover the site by bicycle with the bicitour: 2 hours tour on Saturdays from 10 am to 3 pm and Sundays from 10 am to 2 pm, except the^first Sunday of the month.

Acllawasi. Just after the entrance on the right is the house of the chosen ones where the women selected for their culinary skills, manual skills or beauty lived and worked. This was one of the largest and most important of the coast, hence this elegant building in polished adobe with large trapezoidal windows surrounded by canals and water tanks. It was rebuilt under the supervision of Julio C. Tello. It can be seen from the outside and it is true that it does not lack presence.

Templo Pintado. Here we found a staircase painted in red and then murals of fish, birds and plants enriched the work. Perhaps it was the original place where the idol of Pachacamac resided. Unfortunately, the place is very damaged.

Templo Viejo. This impressive platform is made up of millions of adobe bricks and a ramp, and it is also the oldest. It dates from 200 to 550 AD. Many offerings have been found here as well.

Templo del Sol. It is the most imposing one facing the sea and the islands. On the east side, Max Uhle discovered in 1896 the cemetery of sacrificed women, probably from the elite, buried with a set of woolen clothes and Inca dishes. It is the Templo del Sol the biggest of all the Peruvian coast.

The Alpamayo culminates at 5,947 m. It is said that this white summit is the most perfect in the world because of its diamond shape. Unfortunately, it is invisible from the valley because it is hidden by higher peaks: Santa Cruz (6 260 m) and Quitaraju (6 035 m). To appreciate its perfection, it is necessary to go there on foot: take a combi, early in the morning, until Hualcayan, then walk 20 km. At this altitude and with the difference in altitude, it will take you about 12 hours to get there, and the same for the return. So count on 3 to 4 days to measure the dimension.

For those who have the time, this is without doubt the most extraordinary trek and landscape in the region.

Take a Zeta Bus, a kind of 4x4 combi that leaves around 2-3 am. They pass in front of the Huaylla Belen and can leave you there.

First walk of 5 hours. We start from the sublime valley of Belén, where the river flows like a silver snake. From Belén, we join La Pirquilla to the top of La Escalera. Then we go back down towards Congon. Here you can buy food, find local guides and horses.

We advise you to reach Kuélap in 2 days-1 night. From Congon, we follow the Vilaya river for 2 hours, then there are 2 more hours of climbing to Lanche. Finally, from Lanche, 3 hours and a half in the middle of the orchid forest to Punta Yumal (3,800 meters) before descending to Choctomal and the access to Kuélap. All along, we oscillate between 2 000 and 3 000 meters of altitude.

Note that most of the sites are covered with vegetation and you might miss them and therefore not see much if you go without a guide. The trek is not well marked and it is dangerous to attempt it alone. Peru Nativo is a good agency to accompany you. Count 5 days and 4 nights to do it quietly with the visit of the archaeological site. All along the way, you will cross mystical ruins and zigzag among the misty forest with twisted trees covered with moss.

The Putucusi is the summit that faces Machu Picchu on the other side of the Urubamba river and the railway. It was possible to climb it by a well marked path, but very sportive. The climbing was done by means of 7 bamboo ladders: you walk, you climb a ladder, you walk, you climb and so on. These ladders degrade quickly. Ask around, check or bring your own climbing gear. Allow about 2 to 3 hours of climbing for a beautiful panoramic view of the site. Be careful. Not recommended during rainy periods.

This Inca site protected Cusco. It is the most important of the circuit of the 4 ruins above the city. If you have time to see only one site, let it be this one. It is also easier to reach it by foot being the closest to the city. From the fortress, you have a unique panoramic view of the city. The walls are on three levels representing the three worlds (above, men, and below) and are shaped like a huge zigzag: in this sanctuary was honored the lightning. The stones exactly adjusted, to the multiple angles, to the smooth curves, being able to reach 5 m of height and to weigh until 360 t, were brought from a quarry exploited on the other side of the hill (unheard of performance when we know that the Incas knew neither the horse nor the wheel). Access doors and flights of stairs lead to the religious sector where two stone altars appear, the foundations of the Torreón, a circular watchtower where we can see perfectly the channels of water conveyance that fed it, carved in the rock.

Separated from this gigantic complex by an esplanade where the Inti Raymi is celebrated (festival of the Sun celebrated on June 24) is the rocky hillock polished by the use and strangely striated from where the Inca presided over the ceremonies from the top of his stone throne. Further on, between the tombs, around the circular reservoir discovered in 1986, wind the chincanas, underground passages dug in the earth or the rock and supported by adobe walls.

At 500 m from Saqsayhuamán, this important sanctuary is especially noteworthy for its construction torn from the cold granite. In the center of the amphitheater where nineteen niches are carved in the rock, a monolithic idol displays its feline form, symbol of fertility. Beneath the huge boulder is a sanctuary with a sacrificial altar and throne. On the summit, other seats and thrones surround a zigzagging channel, evoking lightning or a snake. All around are the terraces that the Incas and their predecessors used for cultivation.

It is at 200 m from the fort of Puka Pukará that the Inca went to bathe, it is believed, in a temple dedicated to the cult of water. The superimposed fountains where the precious liquid gushes out in large crystalline bubbles all year round, the aqueducts, the canals, the terraces and the superb stone walls make this place a magical haven in the surrounding aridity. It is easy to understand why the sons of the Sun used to rest here. Very well preserved, it complements the visit of the fortress of Saqsayhuaman and is integrated into the circuit of the 4 ruins.