The most beautiful natural sites to discover Peru

The site of Pisaq is a good alternative for those who are put off by the oppressive mass of tourists flocking to Machu Picchu. If you go to the site early enough, you will have the chance to be almost alone and you may see hummingbirds gorging on cantuta in the thickets, in which case you should make the opening. Ideally, you should be able to visit the archaeological site in the afternoon against the flow of the rest of the tourists. Most of the tour agencies make several visits in the Sacred Valley and start with Pisaq.

Smaller, but no less incredible, these ruins offer an equally fantastic dive into Inca culture. From the village, the ascent allows to discover little by little the valley and the confluence of the Urubamba river and its tributary the Wilcamayu, by taking the path that leaves next to the church of the Plaza de la Constitucion (at the gatehouse, you show your boleto). You will discover steep terraces (still cultivated) that make you dizzy. These terraces were first dug to stabilize the mountain. Then they were cultivated. After having gone along them, we discover the ingenious system of canalisations, and before arriving at Pisaqa (where the food of the citadel city was stored), we notice on the right many holes in the mountain. It is in reality the cemetery (vertical) of the city. If you look carefully, you can see (on the right) a small building where a mummy was recently found! This young woman was on her knees, her hands clenched as if from scratching. It is assumed that she had been badly drugged, that she woke up and died of suffocation.

Nearby, a path leads to two high adobe houses with cane roofs. Higher still, the ceremonial centre of Intihuatana wraps its carved stone walls around the Temple of the Sun, enclosing the solar calendar. The end of the tunnel cut into the mountain can be seen, only to be passed in single file and broken in two; this improbable access made the temple unreachable. Beyond is a complex called Q'allaq'ana, with pools and fountains, and then the residential area of Q'anchisraq'ay, entirely fortified with a crenellated wall. If you have less time, a good idea is to take a taxi up to the village and walk back down. The magic of the site lies in its size and its harmony with the surrounding landscape.

100 km from Huaraz and 32 km from Caraz, this lake has the largest surface area in the Cordillera Blanca. Caught between Artesonraju, Pirámide de Garcilaso and Chacraraju, three nevados that approach 6,000 m, Parón is, at 4,185 m, in its wild setting with green waters, one of the main attractions of the Callejón. If you go by yourself, combis leave at 7am from the central market to Pueblo Parón. Normally 9 km and 4 hours of walking. On the way back there are very few cars and it is 19 km from Pueblo Parón to Caraz. It is possible to pitch a tent.

This lake shaded by high palm trees, 1 hour by boat on the Maldonado river, is a sanctuary for animals such as crocodiles, otters, cranes and turtles. Fishing enthusiasts can indulge their passion. You can get there by a 3 km long path, then explore the site by pirogue (local rowers). It's the best place for birds, small monkeys, caimans and a family of otters if they deign to cross to the part of the lake open to the public (the other is reserved). Sleeping on the shore of the Sandoval allows you to explore it before or after the others.

You can take advantage of the "Chacapi" thermal waters, located 1 km below the village, and much less frequented than those of Chivay. On the spot, a covered swimming pool and another one in the open air. Correct and quite small. More rustic, the thermal baths of Puye, opposite, are located below, along the river with their small stone pools. The community administers it. The entrance fee is the same. We appreciate that there are far fewer people.

These are the most famous baths, as they are the largest in the region. The five pools of thermal water, at 32 and 40 °C, are very pleasant to relax in and constitute the main interest of this village. You can get there on foot or by colectivo (local bus), leaving from Calle del General Moràn for S/ 1. Preferably, go in the morning to have a lot less people, as most of the travel agencies go there from 3 p.m. onwards once their excursion is over.

The Salkantay trek has been proposed for several years as an alternative to the Camino Inca. Be careful, you will not arrive on the ruins of Machu Picchu at the end of the trek but in the village of Aguas Calientes-Machu Picchu Pueblo, like everybody else. On the other hand you will have lived an intense trek, in the heart of wild landscapes and as diverse as the geography of the country between snow-covered summits and undulating jungle.

Here is below the classic route:

Day 1: Cusco-Mollepata-Salkantay-Challway. Departure early in the morning. After 4 hours of travel, arrival at Mollepata. The trek begins in the heart of a green valley, in Soraypampa (3 700 m). You can already see in the distance the snowy peaks like the Humantay (5 217 m) and the Salkantay (6 264 m). This day is the most demanding as it is the day when we cross the highest point of the circuit, the 4,600 meters. The trek begins with a 2 hour climb surrounded by sublime landscapes. You will probably have the chance to see condors above your heads. Night under the tent next to the Andean terraces of Challway at 3 500 m. Depending on the agency, mules and porters can be provided.

Day 2. Challway-La Playa-Lucmabamba. You will enter a mountainous jungle area and descend more and more towards the heat. You will see the orchids, the dense vegetation and the families that live in the area. You will go along the Salkantay river and then Santa Teresa and Totora. The path is mainly downhill. The camp around La Playa is often very full. We recommend you to join the^2nd camp, Lucmabamba at 2 100 meters and more quiet.

Day 3 Lucmabamba-Llactapata-Hidroelectrica-Aguas Calientes. Here again, not all of us make this detour by Llactapata but it is the option that we recommend you. It will be necessary to go up but it is to borrow the rests of an Inca Trail through the plantations of coffee, bananas, avocados... The ascent requires 3 to 4 hours of walking until the highest point of the trail, Llactapata, at 2 700 m. Absolute reward: if the weather allows it, you will be able to enjoy a view on the ruins of Machu Picchu, certainly distant but the perspective by good weather is magic. It will remain you 2 hours of descent until Hydroelectrica. From here you can take the train for a 45 minutes trip through the jungle (tickets on the spot) or follow the rails (about 2 hours along the railroad). Overnight stay in one of the many hostals or book your own if you want more comfort.

Day 4. Visit of Machu Picchu. Then train and return to Cusco.

South of Paracas begins the 335,000 hectare nature reserve, with its deserted beaches where lizards, flamingos, dolphins and sea lions can be seen. Wild camping is possible, provided that you bring food and drink.

Further on, we could observe a monumental rocky concretion, a bird's paradise, called the Catedral, but it was destroyed by the earthquake of 2007. We still pass by it and from the viewpoint we can see the beautiful grey sandy beach on the left.

The playa Roja with its red sand is just as photogenic. For swimming the calm waters of the Mina are perfect, dolphins sometimes come to greet you, beware the page is small and the influx is numerous at the end of the week.

The tours often stop at the small port of Lagunillas, go and have lunch in the most recommended "El Che" hut. You can also climb a small mirador to have a view on this small bay and its fishing boats.

To visit it: By organized tour in taxi or minibus (between S/ 25 and 80 for 2 or 3 hours of visit). However, we advise you to rent a mountain bike (S/ 30 for a day without a guide, count 7 hours) or a scooter (S/ 100): be careful, it can be very hot, in this case we advise you to stay in the sector La Roja-Lagunillas and La Mina. Or explore it by quad (S/ 80 for 2 hours in a group, one pilot + one passenger behind a lead quad).

In the Museo de Sitio Julio C. Tello de Paracas (at the checkpoint of the Reserva, free entrance), we learn that if the Peruvian coasts represent only 0.1% of the world's coastline, they nevertheless host 10% of the underwater wealth!

We also discover the beautiful site plucked from the sands of oblivion in 1927 by Julio C. Tello, who revealed the funerary textiles (superimposed bands of cotton which surrounded the dead and protected them from moisture) of the Paracas and Nazca cultures. This museum traces the evolution of these civilizations from 200 to 700 AD through 120 archaeological pieces. It also includes the necropolis of "Cabezas Largas", dating from 500 BC (the men of the Paracas civilization had their skulls stretched from birth), where most of the mummies of the Museo Larco Herrera of Lima come from.

If you stop at the Interpretation Center, don't miss the beach on the right at the end of a long path where pink flamingos are the most numerous to welcome you.

These natural turquoise pools are nestled in the hollow of a small canyon and of an incredible purity that has made them so successful. On the other hand, the trip to get there and back (over a day, usually on tour) is rather tedious: waking up at dawn and between 4 to 5 hours of driving there and back. In fact, it is necessary to join the province of Huancaraylla and the small community of Circamarca. Be careful, in principle, swimming is prohibited by the authorities who are trying to protect this small jewel of growing popularity and a little invasive. After the rainy season, the pools no longer have the announced colour. The rest of the year is a real geological highlight.

This beach and its malecón are mostly frequented by families who come from Trujillo on weekends. Be careful, because here the sea is rough and dangerous. If you want to go in the water, you must be daring and a good swimmer. We do not recommend walking on this beach. Indeed, many robberies have taken place, as well as dog attacks... If you are not afraid of the crowds, prefer Huanchaco because the beach is much safer and you will be able to take nice sunset pictures on the pier.

The tourist infrastructure is relatively basic, you can camp. Enjoy a good week's presence to truly appreciate the natural splendour of the places.

This-minute walk leads to the "witch où". This is a "Árbol Pati", one of the few remaining specimens of this endangered tree.

Take a polygon to Marcará and then a colectivo for the baths. You'll be able to dip in the waters the unpleasant smell of chlorine, but which flows into individual bathtubs at a temperature of about 70 ° C. Also natural saunas under caves (15 minutes). Again, it could be much improved. Tail in high season. For lovers of the genre. Massages are not recommended. Cleanliness is limited. Have good gossip!

The playa Boca del Río, located between the port and Pueblo Nuevo, is a long stretch of sand where small fishing boats dock. Eight kilometers to the south, the playa Pozo de Lizas, unfortunately close to the barracks, is a stretch of fine white sand suitable for sunbathing, while the playa Tacona is more reserved for sport fishing enthusiasts. To the north, the playa Jaboncillo is the most populated; further on, the playa Enfermeras seems to be the most quiet, sheltered by rocks. At 24 km, the playa Alastaya, with its pebbles, is the beach of the clovisses.

This superb lake is spread out at the foot of the Ranrapalca and Oxhapalca nevados, in a wild setting, at an altitude of 4 000 m.

We start the hike surrounded by a spectacular landscape, in the direction of Nevado Vallunaraju (5,686 m), Ranrapalca (6,162 m) and Ocshapalca (5,881 m). Arrival at the Laguna Llaca with its turquoise water at about 4,474 meters above sea level. From here you can enjoy a splendid view of the snow-capped mountains. Most of the agencies that offer this hike do it with transport and private guide.

This "journalists park" is a nice little place, with fountain and restaurants on the terrace all around, just behind Avenida Luzuriaga (small passage between Nos. 629 and 635).

This small lake, 2 km from Jauja and 3,900 meters above sea level, is sheltered by reeds where herons and cranes nest. Unfortunately, the shores have been invaded by noisy and popular restaurants on weekends, which blurs its wild beauty. You can still canoe, pedal boat or fish here. It is flanked by the Cordillera Oriental, which, seen from the other side of the lagoon, resembles the figure of a reclining man whom the locals call "the sleeping Indian". Around it, the neighborhoods of Paca, Pancan and Chunan.

At 5 km from Sicuani, the water from this source rises at 35 ° C: ideal temperature for a bath reputed to treat rheumatism.

At 18 km from Huancavelica, nature has torn strange and titanic figures from the rock to draw a forest of bewitched stones. The rock formations are attributed to volcanic emanations and cemented ashes. We are at an altitude of 3,800 meters. The area of the place is actually quite small, but the wind-blown Andean moorland landscapes all around add to the walk, which can easily be done in half a day from the small town.

The Laguna Churup is the closest walk from Huaraz (30 km in 1h30). To go there, it is necessary to take a bus until Llupa (approximately S/ 3 for 40 minutes), then to count 4h30 of rather steep walk until the splendid turquoise lagoon located at 4 485 m and surrounded by snow-covered tops. A magnificent place. We advise you to leave around 7:30 am, not later. Be aware that there is a stone wall to climb. If you want to stay in the area, we recommend staying at the Churup Mountain Lodge, a very comfortable lodge in the middle of nature, which will also allow you to explore the area, as they have their own agency. Treks, mountain biking, but also yoga or massage (which we appreciate even more after the trek).

Note that a three day trek can be undertaken, including the Laguna Churup. After having reached it, we continue towards Pitec, located at 3 750 m of altitude, where we can camp. The next day, we continue in 4 hours up the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca valley to the Olivos camp (4250 m). A not very difficult day : 15 km of walking. We can take advantage of it to visit the Quebrada de Cayesh in the afternoon if we are still in shape. The third day is the most difficult. We visit the Laguna Tullpacocha (4 350 m), then we descend 44 km to Pitec, about 8 hours of walking. We then return to Llupa. Note that this three-day trek is not very difficult in itself and will be suitable even for beginners.

It is the farthest lake from Huaraz, but the most beautiful (medium difficulty). Take a bus to Yungay (1h30) then another one to Cebollapampa (another 1h30) and finally walk 3h30 in zigzag until the lagoon by crossing sometimes the torrents according to the season. Superb panoramic view on the snowy peaks of the surroundings (in particular Pisco), and especially splendid turquoise color of the water of the lake. We advise you to leave at 6:30 am to have a clear view. The hike itself will take you between 6 and 8 hours round trip depending on your pace.