A few kilometres from La Rochelle, between land and sea, the Ile de Ré is one of those beautifully preserved spots. A holy land for migrating people, the island has made listening to nature a real way of life. A nature which is declined in the plates by the oysters and the flower of salt or in the delicious bicycle rides between marshes, vineyard and littoral. Add exceptional light and the decor is set. When it comes to authenticity, the Ile de Ré gives you the "la" and a nice excuse to recharge your batteries
Tradition and gastronomy
Concreting point for coastal concreting or modern residences anonymes : here, the streets are narrow and capricious, the cobblestones are resistant and offer themselves entirely to pedestrians. As in the past, the white facades of the country houses have green or blue shutters, thus perpetuating the tradition of finishing the paint pots of the boats to decorate its front. Authentic therefore, but also cultural, playful and gastronomique : an island stay in the Retais country should delight more than one. Which way to commencer ? Gastronomy is a good start, all the more so as it is as much a part of the island's reputation as it is of its economy. Starting with its oysters. Thanks to the marsh maturing areas, the island's oysters have a slightly sweeter taste than their cousins. That said, according to experts, there are as many different tastes as there are producers... So from tasting to tasting, it will be up to you to judge until you find the one that best suits your papilles ! Fans will be curious to discover the underbelly of oyster farming directly from the passionate and exciting producers. On the spot or to take away, at the counter or at the table on the terrace, it's almost a sin to taste oysters without a glass of blanc ! Open a " Brise from mer " or a " Royal ", two local chardonnays predestined for this succulent marriage, from their chêne barrel! Among the guests, there is also an incredible selection of pineaux that the ladies enjoy as an aperitif, but which perfectly spice up all the delights of the sea. If the " pipi from ange " flows in your glasses to accompany your food, there is another one that accompanies them: the white gold rehaussera . Coarse salt or fleur de sel, with each dish its derivative of sau (" sel " in Charentais patois). No less than 2 500 tons of salt are produced every year in the 450 hectares of salt marshes that shape the island's landscape. To find out all about the profession of saunier, don't miss a visit to the salt marsh ecomuseum
Sweet toothers will already have spotted the Biscuiterie de Ré to fill up on caramels with fleur de sel, shortbread, macaroons and others gourmandises !
As for savvy gullets, it's impossible to ignore the aroma of rigueur : the cognac ! You will find it accompanied by its wine-growing partners in the cellar of the winegrowers of the Ile de Ré, in Le Bois-Plage : a detour to be programmed to fill your cellar with bottles from the island...
Bike rides and cultural discoveries
So it is with a full belly that you will discover the island. Luckily for your ligne : here everything is done at vélo ! Because of its small size and delicate ecosystems, the island's authorities have favoured bicycle traffic by developing nearly 100 kilometres of bicycle paths. This has made cycling a national sport on the island. And it is a pure joy to ride through the open air through the villages brightened up by hollyhocks, to ride along the vineyards, around the marshes and dream along the coastline facing the gates of cultural sites. It is also the best way to discover all the facets of the island, and to go deeper into the more confidential lands towards Loix or Les Portes, following the impasse du Paradis, the impasse du Bout du monde or the ruelle du Coiffeur... so many little jewels of the rurale appellation!
As for cultural outings, the Whale Lighthouse in Saint-Clément is not to be missed. Its 257 steps give a good idea of what life was like for the marins : a good way to immerse yourself in their quotidien ! The view from the lantern's fireplace (57 m) is so beautiful that you quickly forget your muscular pains... Also at découvrir : the Ernest-Cognacq museum in Saint-Martin-de-Ré which tells us a lot about history. Saint-Martin-de-Ré, today the island's capital, was for a long time the departure point for convicts to the bagnes of French Guiana and New Caledonia. As an antechamber, until 1953 it was in transit near 100 000 convicts. The museum is lively, didactic and well documented
Ornithology and seaside holidays
Impossible to ignore what is undoubtedly the most beautiful attraction of the island, and they would not deny it since there are more than 40 000 to come, every year, to taste the flavor of this market gardening territory ... the oiseaux ! Shelduck, herons, blue gorges, and harriers love the mudflats that are the marshes, to feed themselves to the full bec ! They come from Africa, like the white stilt, or from Siberia, like the goose, to stay here, among the 200 hectares of marshes reserved for them. A space totally inaccessible to any featherless being. It is nevertheless possible to travel through the reserve by bike or on foot to try to capture all the sublime wildlife, the time of a flapping of the wings or an echo of a gull. To better understand, observe and recognize what goes on in these holy places, go to the Maison du Fier for a visit of its museum. Playful and accessible to all, it depicts the secrets of the migrating people in riddles
With all these opportunities for activities and leisure, one would almost forget that we are here on an island with some 70 km beautiful coastlines. Wild, bordered by dunes, and often decorated with seaweed, the beaches of the Ile de Ré are in keeping with the beaches of the Atlantic. Of course, our heart is in the right place, with a preference for the northern beaches, especially the beach of La Conche des Baleines (Saint-Clément-des-Baleines), a huge expanse of sand that has managed to preserve its authentic character. And, between a paddle ride and two sea baths, you can also enjoy hiking, horseback riding or golf from one end of the island to the other. In short, the holiday program promises to be very full.
Smart info
When? From April until the end of October.
Getting there. By car, take the direction of La Rochelle. The Ile de Ré is located at 25 km from the centre of La Rochelle, by taking the viaduct of Ré. By train, you must also go to La Rochelle.
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